Yes, it is a complete package at a much cheaper price than the Hyper-Lites ... which are themselves very good indeed.Doesn't the Whelen TIR3 have a built in flasher? This site https://www.swps.com/whelen-tir3-leds.html says it has 10 patterns.
Which is why I was wondering why the other modulator is needed? Unless the built in does not have a flash and go steady.Yes, it is a complete package at a much cheaper price than the Hyper-Lites ... which are themselves very good indeed.Doesn't the Whelen TIR3 have a built in flasher? This site https://www.swps.com/whelen-tir3-leds.html says it has 10 patterns.
Are your LEDs built into you license plate bracket? Looks very tidy, if so can you share vendor and price. Thanks.I have been using a Kisan splice-in TailBlazer that I bought when I first started riding in 1997 (I think it was the only Tailblazer back then. Now they have more varieties) I moved it from bike to bike and 17 years later, now it's on my 2014 FJR. Basically it supports up to 100W total and makes anything flash, LEDs and halogen or both, by interrupting the ground wire coming out of the TailBlazer. It flashes the lights for several seconds then make them solid.
I have been using it to flash my halogen tail lights, my Givi top trunk LED brake lights and my licence plate frame LEDs.
You are correct. See my prior post.I am not sure I understand the techno-speak, but if I got it right, it does not offer the three quick flashes followed by solid on. Do you read it the same way?Spec Sheet for the TIR3 is here
Going back and reading that old post was kind of a blast from the past. I'm very glad to,hear that it was useful to other folks. My 2013 bought used 10 days ago got the LIN3/3rd brake flasher treatment just a few days after I got it in addition to the Kisan tailblazers it already had.Wow. Bad reading comprehension followed by a lot of disinformation.
The OP wants to flash his Whelen LED 3rd brake light. He wants it to flash and then go steady on (which is the only legal way to have a brake light flash in many jurisdictions). The Whelen has flash modes but they are all continuously repeating, which is NFG.
What he wants, is what I have, and what was https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/120299-whelen-lin3-programable-flasher-wow/]originally proposed by Da Judge, so many years ago here[/url].
Use the flasher module that Geezer mentioned, the https://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/brake-light-flasher-c-65/universal-brake-light-flasherstrober-1000-modes-p-181.html]3rd Brake Light Flasher[/url]. I have installed this exact setup (Whelen and 3BLF) on several bikes now after reading Da Judge's original post, and they have all been 100% reliable and weatherproof. Totally reliable. The only possible failure point lies in your own wiring ability.
You can program the flasher many ways (ref the link) but I prefer the 5 fastest flashes followed by constant on, and with no "lock out" so if I let of the brake and then re-engage it I get the strobing LEDs again.
$20, how can you go wrong? It's the bomb.
And $5 cheaper? Cool!! Looks like it is from the same people even, so reliability should be the same. And you are right, you don't need 1000 flash modes. Just the one that you will want to use, so if that is one of the 36 you can pocket enough for a gallon of gas and cup a joe!I use this one. It's a simpler version of the Universal flasher linked earlier. Just brilliant and extremely tiny to fit in the tailpiece. 36 modes including slow and rapid 4 flashes then solid to comply with most State requirements. Just set the Whelen to solid, and use this tiny controller to do the flashes. I've used it without a problem since 2011. Set it and forget it, or just short the adjustment wire to change modes. You don't need 1000 modes, you just want to flash the lights and let them go solid. It ties right in with the wiring, and only costs $14.95
Aack! Glad your cycling friend will be OK. I know from past experience (I used to be an avid cyclist) that ATGATT on a bicycle is a lot less effective than the heavy weight gear we ride our motor scooters with.This issue hit kind of close to home for me just now. A couple of hours after returning home from a 33 mile bicycle ride this evening, I found out that one of my cycling buddies who was in the group 5-10 min behind mine was hit from the rear by a vehicle being driven by a 20 year old police say was "distracted by his cell phone" (translation = texting). She's in the hospital with serious, but thankfully not life-threatening, injuries. IMO, it's more dangerous than ever out there for those of us on two wheels.
They are separate pieces of LEDs that I mounted on the license plate. I don't remember who made these and I couldn't find any manufacturer name on it. I bought them back in 1998 and i moved them from bike to bike.Are your LEDs built into you license plate bracket? Looks very tidy, if so can you share vendor and price. Thanks.I have been using a Kisan splice-in TailBlazer that I bought when I first started riding in 1997 (I think it was the only Tailblazer back then. Now they have more varieties) I moved it from bike to bike and 17 years later, now it's on my 2014 FJR. Basically it supports up to 100W total and makes anything flash, LEDs and halogen or both, by interrupting the ground wire coming out of the TailBlazer. It flashes the lights for several seconds then make them solid.
I have been using it to flash my halogen tail lights, my Givi top trunk LED brake lights and my licence plate frame LEDs.
They are separate pieces of LEDs that I mounted on the license plate. I don't remember who made these and I couldn't find any manufacturer name on it. I bought them back in 1998 and i moved them from bike to bike.
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