What's wrong with the FJR Windshield system

[madmike2]

I wonder how weird / bad / ugly an accentuated top to bottom curved shield would look? Maybe that's why none of the aftermarket shield guys have gone that route yet?

I think part of it is cost. It is easy to "bend" a sheet of plastic one way, but producing one that curves heavily in both directions might just be more difficult. I also suspect it is hard to maintain an "opticaly correct" shield that is more spherical.

I'd guess that a complex curve could be manufactured but would require a different mold for each windshield as the variations in height would require the top:bottom arc to be changed.

If the shield was not too radicaly curved, "ugly" would be subjective. Many don't like the looks of the V-Stream, but many say it works well.

Another problem with a radical complex-curved windshield would be that when fully down, the top edge of the 'shield could be almost parallel to the ground and with the "taller" windshield, close to the riders face.

With time and money (both in copious amounts), it would be interesting to experiment with changing the fairing nosepiece to be higher by 2"-3" and let the windshield then direct the wind above the rider's helmet. I think that's why the BMW R/T and ST1300 have fairings that are so large in the front.

The FJR is a good cross between a sportbike and a touring bike and it serves it's function well. It just doesn't work as effectively for those of us who are taller (6'-plus). So its up to us to modify the bike to work for us or at least find that "happy medium".

 

[Radical]

Givi windscreen with the little lip solved all my issues. UMotors for 100 bucks plus shipping. 5'10" and it works great. Quality is top notch and the only thing I suggest is cutting some new rubber/foam gaskets when installing. This screen allows for good protection and also allows for air flow in summer. I don't work for them or am affiliated in anyway blah,blah,blah. This is one screen that has characteristics that seem to really fit the bike and it's overlooked by most. You don't have to spend 3-5 big ones to get a high quality screen that works well with your bike. I tried some of the more expensive and was not satisfied so they were sold at the local swap meet. Just ordered another from UMotors yesterday for my 07.

 

[mdisher]

Givi windscreen with the little lip solved all my issues.

Radical,

Have any photos of this on the bike? I'd also be interested in the dimensions. I had a Givi windscreen on my ZX11 that I liked. I've poked around the web but haven't found any photos.

 

[Radical]

Givi windscreen with the little lip solved all my issues.

Radical,

Have any photos of this on the bike? I'd also be interested in the dimensions. I had a Givi windscreen on my ZX11 that I liked. I've poked around the web but haven't found any photos.

I don't have my new one yet as it is being shipped from UMotors however here is a link that shows some pics: https://pierre.inazores.com/parabrisas_e.htm

 

[PapaUtah]

Do not post pics of anything other than a production ready fix if you develop one. Prototypes will be torn to shreds by the minions here. They will be focued on the paint color or screws you use rather than on the issue of if it works or not.

The solution will be either to get the top mount to drop back or get the leading edge of the windshield to stay in the forward position as the lower control arms "cam" over. The basic design of the early mechanism has two arched spring loaded arms that hold the top of the screen and two straight arms that provide the power for the movement at the leading edge.

IMHO the best tack to take would be to get the leading edge pushed out as well as up. This would provide enhanced airflow and help reduce the backpressure behind the screen. The screen would essentially move up and back while retaining the down windshield angle. Looking at the up position picture early in this thread the screen's final position would be the same as stock for the upper arms but the lower arms would push the bottom "out". Imagine the down position windscreen lifted straight up 4 inches or so, with a fairly large opening for air to flow under the the screen from the bottom.

As simple 4-link mechanism could be created to replace the top arched mounts that would in effect slide the windshield back and up from the down position, maintaining the close proximity of the shield to the cowling. Looking at the up position picture early in this thread the screen's final position would be the same as stock for the lower arms, tight to the cowling, but the upper arms would pull the top down tilting the screen more towards the rider. It would essentially make the screen 4" taller, just slid back on the same plane as the down position.

Might be time to get out the old erector set again this weekend...

 

[Fred W]

As simple 4-link mechanism could be created to replace the top arched mounts that would in effect slide the windshield back and up from the down position, maintaining the close proximity of the shield to the cowling. Looking at the up position picture early in this thread the screen's final position would be the same as stock for the lower arms, tight to the cowling, but the upper arms would pull the top down tilting the screen more towards the rider. It would essentially make the screen 4" taller, just slid back on the same plane as the down position.
Might be time to get out the old erector set again this weekend...

Thanks for the post. Yes, this was my initial thinking too, I'm beginning to doubt that this can be accomplished with changes only to the upper bracket due to the limited range of motion of the drive mechanism.

As I noted in a prior post, the drive only moves the bottom bracket, in a linear direction, 2.5". If there is no change in tilt, and the angle of the windshield was (for the sake of discussion) 45 degrees, that would mean the total vertical range of windshield coverage would only be 1.25". I don't think many folks would be all that happy with that.

The fact that the upper pivoting "struts" alter the shield's angle is where we get most of the amplification of the vertical shield range from. So, what may make more sense is to alter the bottom bracket via an adjustable spacer of some sort to allow "dialing in" for body shape and also, counter-intuitively, increasing the length of the top struts to increase the vertical range. Longer top struts would mean even more lower bracket spacing would be required to keep the upper shield angle low.

Thirdly, one would still have to strap on some big piece of aftermarket lexan to increase the coverage, and that would be where the biggest variability would remain.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

... Prototypes will be torn to shreds by the minions here. They will be focued on the paint color or screws you use rather than on the issue of if it works or not. ...

There is some of that, but I think the members mean well.

Personally, I say put as much out there as possible, even though it's messy having several posts full of photos of ideas that didn't work out.

Not all of the criticism one receives is helpful, but it was offered in an effort to be helpful. That is worth something.

If you end up going into production with your parts, the last post in the prototype thread can point to a post in a Capitalism & Bartering subforum. Then you’ll have a whole new set of problems to solve.

 

[FJRTom]

Be aware that on the '08 there is no method by which spacers may be installed. The bracket is mounted differently than before.

 

[Fred W]

Be aware that on the '08 there is no method by which spacers may be installed. The bracket is mounted differently than before.

Well, optimists might say there will be no need for tuning blocks.

But I'm a realist. :glare:

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Hey Fred,

What's going on with this?

I've got my front cowling off and I'm looking at the windshield assembly.

Have you designed replacement upper dog bone arms?

 

[Bustanut joker]

Best thing to do is run without a shield for a week or two. Then when ya put it back on .... the stocker is just fine.

Note to sycthian, add this to your "faults of the fjr" list.

:jester:

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Here's a photo showing the two tracks: (click on image to view larger image)



The tracks for the upper arms are at a steeper angle. My plan is to make a new set of upper tracks that eliminates that 5º and keeps the travel in the same plane.

John, any progress figuring out a simple 4-link mechanism? If there's an easier solution than what I came up with...

 

[Fred W]

Here's a photo showing the two tracks: (click on image to view larger image)


The tracks for the upper arms are at a steeper angle. My plan is to make a new set of upper tracks that eliminates that 5º and keeps the travel in the same plane.

John, any progress figuring out a simple 4-link mechanism? If there's an easier solution than what I came up with...

It appears that the 2nd gen mechanism is considerably different than the 1st Gens. 1st gens the upper link is only a pivoting arm, no track. That said, it appears that the 2nd gens have more opportunity for modification that the simpler 1st gens mechanism.

 

[okmac]

The easy fix for the buffeting when you raise the windshield is, buy a higher one then you need and then you will not have to raise it so much thereby leaving the windshield at an angle that still allows air to flow smoothly. It works for me.

Mac

 

[mattster31]

It appears that the 2nd gen mechanism is considerably different than the 1st Gens. 1st gens the upper link is only a pivoting arm, no track. That said, it appears that the 2nd gens have more opportunity for modification that the simpler 1st gens mechanism.

Try this............https://www.fjr1300.info/mods/windmod.html

Looks interesting.

 

[Fred W]

It appears that the 2nd gen mechanism is considerably different than the 1st Gens. 1st gens the upper link is only a pivoting arm, no track. That said, it appears that the 2nd gens have more opportunity for modification that the simpler 1st gens mechanism.

Try this............https://www.fjr1300.info/mods/windmod.html

Looks interesting.

Yeah that was covered earlier in this thread. It will lower the angle at maximum extension, but at the expense of also decreasing the max height.

 

[mattster31]

Yeah that was covered earlier in this thread. It will lower the angle at maximum extension, but at the expense of also decreasing the max height.

sorry...........to lazy to go through 3 pages

I guess you're looking for more of a paralever type effect right?? a mix of Gen I and Gen II maybe......

 

[Fred W]

Yeah that was covered earlier in this thread. It will lower the angle at maximum extension, but at the expense of also decreasing the max height.

sorry...........to lazy to go through 3 pages

I guess you're looking for more of a paralever type effect right?? a mix of Gen I and Gen II maybe......

Yeah, that's the thought. I'll be playing with it some more once I can stand the temperature in my garage. It's in the low 30's down there right now.

Weatherman says 44 and sunny tomorrow! :yahoo: Might actually get out for a ride!! :yahoo: :yahoo:

 

[Gcopter]

I did not read all the responses to this thread..... The stock windscreen sucks unless its hot outside and you want to dump all the air in the world on your face.. If thats the case buy a naked bike If the wind is bothering you do what I did and toss a Laminar Lip on it and set it about an inch high. In the full uprite position it is nice and quite. (mine is an 05)

 

[sl_1300]

To each his own, I like the stock screen and get no buffeting, but then I'm only 5'8" with the seat in the lower setting and my bike is a 08.