Where do you buy your oil change kit from

[RossKean]

BUT!! Either of the above, and possibly any available aftermarket filter, won't fit the FJR as is.

I've used the higher grade Fram filters a couple of times and didn't have an issue with fitment or leaks. Same with Wix filters and never an issue with the Mobil 1 filters. It has been a couple of years so perhaps Fram has changed their design. I will definitely have a good look at the baseplate before I get another one - or any other filter, for that matter.

Stay away from the lower grade PH7317

Yup. As well as Fram's motorcycle-specific crap filters like the PH6017A (I think that is the one that is supposed to fit the FJR).

For anyone looking at automotive filters for your FJR and if you don't have the modified union bolt, look at the photo, below. The Bosch 3323 filter on the right has the original "concave" baseplate - this style works without leakage. The one on the left has the "convex" baseplate and the plate will make contact with the flange of the union bolt before the gasket makes sufficient contact. This one WILL leak (eventually, if not immediately). Check every time - don't assume because they were always OK in the past that they will continue to be OK. (Neither Bosch nor Purolator announced any redesign and, as far as I know, have never responded to questions or complaints.)

 

[classicrocker]

Well, I wasn't sure when I was going to switch to synthetic, but talking it over with a buddy. I have decided to switch to synthetic. He was using Rotella T synthetic 5w40. He has since switched to Spectral, (says it is actually Amsoil). And probabley the Mahle original oc 707 filter

​

 

[RossKean]

Well, I wasn't sure when I was going to switch to synthetic, but talking it over with a buddy. I have decided to switch to synthetic. He was using Rotella T synthetic 5w40. He has since switched to Spectral, (says it is actually Amsoil). And probabley the Mahle original oc 707 filter

View attachment 3894​

Never heard of anyone using that one. Obviously not motorcycle specific - do they state JASO MA/MA2? Probably OK...?
Note: Amsoil sells non- motorcycle oils too.

 

[redneckj]

M1-110 Bosch filter and 10w-40
Mobil 1 high mileage from Walmart.

 

[rbentnail]

M1-110 Bosch filter and 10w-40 Mobil 1 high mileage from Walmart.

Isn't M1-110 a Mobil 1 designation, not Bosch?

 

[#Rocket]

Seeing some posts about using high mileage or non-motorcycle oils. Be aware that non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers that will ruin the FJR clutch (wet clutches are a commonly used motorcycle design). Best bet is to use JASO certified oil. Low cost excellent synthetic for this purpose is Shell Rotella T6 15w-40 (appropriate viscosity for Gen2 FJR). Mobil 1 should only be used if it is specifically formulated for motorcycles with wet clutch (they do make it and it is expensive). Same for Amzoil or any other...only use motorcycle specific oil.

 

[#Rocket]

I've used the higher grade Fram filters a couple of times and didn't have an issue with fitment or leaks. Same with Wix filters and never an issue with the Mobil 1 filters. It has been a couple of years so perhaps Fram has changed their design. I will definitely have a good look at the baseplate before I get another one - or any other filter, for that matter.

Yup. As well as Fram's motorcycle-specific crap filters like the PH6017A (I think that is the one that is supposed to fit the FJR).

For anyone looking at automotive filters for your FJR and if you don't have the modified union bolt, look at the photo, below. The Bosch 3323 filter on the right has the original "concave" baseplate - this style works without leakage. The one on the left has the "convex" baseplate and the plate will make contact with the flange of the union bolt before the gasket makes sufficient contact. This one WILL leak (eventually, if not immediately). Check every time - don't assume because they were always OK in the past that they will continue to be OK. (Neither Bosch nor Purolator announced any redesign and, as far as I know, have never responded to questions or complaints.)

View attachment 3887

So glad I saw this post. I am switching away from Yamaha filter due to dealer only stocking the short version for my Gen2. My new filter is NAPA Gold 7356, and I am relieved to see it has the concave base plate.

 

[RossKean]

Seeing some posts about using high mileage or non-motorcycle oils. Be aware that non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers that will ruin the FJR clutch (wet clutches are a commonly used motorcycle design). Best bet is to use JASO certified oil. Low cost excellent synthetic for this purpose is Shell Rotella T6 15w-40 (appropriate viscosity for Gen2 FJR). Mobil 1 should only be used if it is specifically formulated for motorcycles with wet clutch (they do make it and it is expensive). Same for Amzoil or any other...only use motorcycle specific oil.

Not all non MC oils are "energy conserving", especially the heavier ones such as Mobil 15W50. I have heard of a number of people using this one (and others). Personally, I wouldn't, although I haven't heard of problems....

While I don't like to spend more than I need to for oil, in the big scheme of things pricier oil is a small incremental expense. Especially when you consider the "per-mile" cost of gas, tires, insurance, license, general maintenance and initial purchase. I also see lots of cases where people try to save on oil cost and then change it every 2,000 miles and filter every time - that's just throwing money away. With a good synthetic, I will significantly extend drain intervals - up to 7,000 miles or even more when on an extended trip. Oil filter every second change.

 

[classicrocker]

Seeing some posts about using high mileage or non-motorcycle oils. Be aware that non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers that will ruin the FJR clutch (wet clutches are a commonly used motorcycle design). Best bet is to use JASO certified oil. Low cost excellent synthetic for this purpose is Shell Rotella T6 15w-40 (appropriate viscosity for Gen2 FJR). Mobil 1 should only be used if it is specifically formulated for motorcycles with wet clutch (they do make it and it is expensive). Same for Amzoil or any other...only use motorcycle specific oil.

I was trying to decide what synthetic oil to use, and ended up getting mobil1 5w30 extended mileage, and a Mobil m1-110 oil filter because I have listened to suggestions in here.
GREAT, no I am second guessing that decision. Good thing I haven't done the oil change yet.....

 

[RossKean]

I was trying to decide what synthetic oil to use, and ended up getting mobil1 5w30 extended mileage, and a Mobil m1-110 oil filter because I have listened to suggestions in here.
GREAT, no I am second guessing that decision. Good thing I haven't done the oil change yet.....

You're OK for the filter but I would not use the Mobil 5W30. 20W40 or 20W50 are recommended by Yamaha. The first number relates to how it flows cold (a lower number is not an issue). The second number is viscosity when hot and I wouldn't go below the 40. Also, I wouldn't promise that a 5W30 did not contain substances that might mess up a wet clutch. If you want to use a non-motorcycle oil, I would suggest the Rotella unless you want to experiment. Note: The Rotella T6 synthetic and the T4 conventional have had the JASO MA/MA2 designation. The T5 does not...

 

[classicrocker]

You're OK for the filter but I would not use the Mobil 5W30. 20W40 or 20W50 are recommended by Yamaha. The first number relates to how it flows cold (a lower number is not an issue). The second number is viscosity when hot and I wouldn't go below the 40. Also, I wouldn't promise that a 5W30 did not contain substances that might mess up a wet clutch. If you want to use a non-motorcycle oil, I would suggest the Rotella unless you want to experiment. Note: The Rotella T6 synthetic and the T4 conventional have had the JASO MA/MA2 designation. The T5 does not...

Good thing I haven't cracked the seal on the oil

 

[roger dodger]

CR, Ross is SO right about NOT using 5w-30... probably has slippery stuff to mess you up.

I read that Shell didn't want to pay for the JASO testing/registration of the cheaper 15w-40 Dino oil ... so it certainly works, is cheaper , a lot thicker, and not JASO registered. I've used both ... mixed to achieve the perfect '10w -40 blend'.

 

[#Rocket]

Rotella T6 is motorcycle specific, since it has the JASO MA rating.
That rating means it’s safe in a motorcycle’s wet clutch. The only question with Rotella T6 is 5W-40 or 15W-40. I find the 5W-40 warms up quicker to the right viscosity for smooth clutch operation In my AE.

Viscosity range is also critical to reliability and performance. I use the Rotella T6 15w-40 since it is a reputable synthetic non-energy conserving (no clutch destroying friction modifiers) JASO oil that is reasonably close to the engineer's viscosity range design spec relative to the rather-expensive Yamalube 20w-40. The valve train design, piston ring tensions, transmission, and all other critical internal lubricated surface finishes (porosity and smoothness) are designed for a certain range of cold and hot viscosity. While warm-up may intuitively seem better with the thin 5w cold viscosity--it is causing more metal-to-metal contact on cold start of this high performance engine than the engineer's specification for 20w cold viscosity.

 

[RossKean]

The 5W40 T6 is not thin at cold temperatures; still at least as viscous as it is at higher temperatures. It is most definitely less viscous than the 15W40 when cold which means it will pump/flow better which is a good thing if you want to start your engine at or below the freezing mark. Moot point for anyone in Canada anyway since the T6 15W40 isn't sold here - at least I haven't seen it. The T4 conventional oil is 15W40 here. As previously mentioned, I used T6 slmost exclusively in my 2007 FJR. Sold it at 295,000 km - no issues ever with engine or clutch and it never used a measureable amount of oil between changes.

I would also note that most new cars call for 0W20 or similar oil. No major startup wear issues with these engines either. I suspect the 5W40 may suffer viscosity breakdown due to shear a bit faster since it has a wide weight range compared to the 15W40 and I might choose to use it if it was readily available here.

 

[Mad German]

I use Mobil 1 oil filters and Yamalube Dino oil. I’ve been using this combo for year and years. I bought a pack of aluminum crush washers on Amazon a while ago. More sizes than I need, but lots of the ones I do need.

 

[Bounce]

I don't buy "kits" as in the original Q. I get oil and filters wherever I can find the best price for Mobile 1 and OEM filters.

 

[classicrocker]

I appreciate all the help guys. I will be returning the mobil 1 oil. Since I only live 7 miles from the border. I am heading down to Walmart in Idaho, to pick up a few jugs of Rotella T6. They have some in stock for about $23/jug

 

[C&C]

The two things you don't want to see on your motorcycle oil is the Starburst symbol or Energy conserving label.

 

[RossKean]

View attachment 3915 I appreciate all the help guys. I will be returning the mobil 1 oil. Since I only live 7 miles from the border. I am heading down to Walmart in Idaho, to pick up a few jugs of Rotella T6. They have some in stock for about $23/jug

Even with exchange, it is a fair bit cheaper than Canadian Tire for T6. CT is a 5 litre jug instead of 3.785 litres. Note: The 1 US gallon is slightly shy of the four litre spec for an FJR oil change with filter. You might go for the T6 in the 15W40 which isn't available in Canada.

 

[redneckj]

Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage oil does NOT have the energy conserving decal. I have run this oil for nearly 77,000 miles in the FJR and ran it for 40,000 miles on my Gen 1 FZ1.

I actually talked to an engineer from Mobil 1 at SEMA in Las Vegas years ago. I ask him if he could tell me the difference in their “motorcycle” 10w-40 oil vs the high mileage “car” 10w-40 oil. He responded, “ I have no comment on that”.