Where to tap into a "switchable power" source?

[kiwimike]

Hello all, I have done a search to no avail, and I am sure that this question has been asked before so please be a little tolerant here!

I am a new FJR owner and this is my first post after my introduction. Presently I am fitting a "FuzeBlock" in order to power my accessories, Heat clothing, GPS etc. so far all has gone well but I have not been able to locate a switchable power source that is easy to get at. I looked at the tail lights but do not know which wire is the power one. Maybe someone here knows of a easy to get at source or the colour of the power wire to the tail light?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mcatrophy]

Tail light blue wire.

 

[RossKean]

Depends if you want to activate with ignition on - blue tail light wire as mcatrophy suggests. If you want on only after engine start, take a tap off the headlight. I would choose the headlight option if powering higher current accessories like aux lighting. Heated gear is fairly high draw as well but it isn't going to be plugged in until you are seated on the bike.

Note: Remember that the headlight remains on if you shut down with the kill switch or sidestand - until you cycle the key.

 

[SLK50]

Except for gps power which is always live all of my accessories

run through a fuse block switched by a relay triggered by the

headlight circuit.

The premise being accessories are only on AFTER the bike

is running.

Kill switch use noted above.

 

[BigOgre]

If you go with that blue taillight wire it can be easily tapped by pulling off the left side-cover (under your thigh as you're sitting on the bike). No need to go reaching back towards the taillight and nicely close if you're mounting the Fuzelock under the seat.

 

[Bounce]

Trigger leg to a relay can be powered via the windshield auto-retract jumper on many models.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/shield/shield.html

If you want to run to something in the back so you don't have to route over/around the engine, then you use a pin puller, get a keyed-on source from a multi-gang connector, solder together a Y and re-insert the pin. This "tapes the low voltage into your wiring harness without compromising your harness' insulation. I did that in this example.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/hyper/hyper.html

 

[roger dodger]

I tapped into the power connection inside the front left cubby... with help... to make my GPS hard wired and switched. Works like a charm, my gps is always on, and off at the right times. This won't support a tire pump or big heated gear as it's a smaller fused connection, and would blow under heavy load. YMMV

 

[rbentnail]

Admore lighting makes a plug & plug harness for rear lighting, no need for tapping into any wiring plus you'll be set up for additional lighting in the back for the future.

 

[kiwimike]

Many thanks to all who have replied to my request. I must admit to being a little overwhelmed with receiving so much excellent advice so quickly. I am about to go to my garage and locate the blue twilight wire behind the L/H panel and tap into that.

Thanks so much to all, what a great forum!

 

[trimmantom]

You can easily access the blue tail light wire by removing the rear seat without taking the side panel off. I ran a heavy gauge wire off my battery and used the blue wire to a relay for switched power to my fuseblock under the drivers seat. You will also need to run a ground wire. That should take care of anything you want to run. I used a wire loom to put the wires in to protect them also.

 

[trimmantom]

Also at fjrtech.com in farkles is a good step by step install of a 12v barrier strip.https://www.fjrtech.net/getdbitem.cfm?item=25

 

[Bounce]

Which I used as a guide when documenting my version (1 for power and 1 for ground).

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[Uncle Hud]

rbentnail posted: Admore lighting makes a plug & plug harness for rear lighting, no need for tapping into any wiring plus you'll be set up for additional lighting in the back for the future.

Thanks, man. One is on the way.

Mr Laam is building me a heated seat, so I'll need a power strip in the back. Figure I'll install that in November when I do the power-up stuff to the front of the bike: Clearwater Darlas mounted on the forks and a USB module to replace the cigarette lighter module.

 

[rbentnail]

rbentnail posted: Admore lighting makes a plug & plug harness for rear lighting, no need for tapping into any wiring plus you'll be set up for additional lighting in the back for the future.

Thanks, man. One is on the way.

Mr Laam is building me a heated seat, so I'll need a power strip in the back. Figure I'll install that in November when I do the power-up stuff to the front of the bike: Clearwater Darlas mounted on the forks and a USB module to replace the cigarette lighter module.

Hope you called them, the Gen3 was a little confusing for them. I was speaking to/for the OP who has an '07. Admore's FJR-2 model will fit his bike as simply as it fit mine.

 

[Uncle Hud]

rbentnail posted: Hope you called them, the Gen3 was a little confusing for them. I was speaking to/for the OP who has an '07. Admore's FJR-2 model will fit his bike as simply as it fit mine.

The Gen 3 kit looks straightforward: one side plugs into an existing factory connector, and the other side plugs into the other side of the factory connector. A "splice", if you will, with either side of the splice plugging into a factory connector.

The new wires will enter a relay (switched by the glove compartment power), which will then provide switched power for anything aft: heated seats, USB power inside Pelican case topbox, and .... who knows what new techno-bauble might become a "crucial need."

The part that worries me FAR more than anything: how in the hell do I remove and replace the fairing? I'm thinking that alone will take me six hours.

 

[Mortenk]

I simply found one of the fuses (in battery compartment) that is only hot when ignition is ON (easy if you have the wiring diagram). I then found the side that has no power when fuse is removed. Finally, I stripped a wire and inserted it along with the fuse - and then ran the wire to wherever I needed the power. Very easy, and the "new circuit" is automatically protected by the existing fuse. Just have to remember to check the fuse vs. the expected load on that specific circuit, including your newly added load...

 

[Bounce]

The low v wiring and fuse in the gbox isn't meant to hold much load. What people are talking about are using that low load to feed a relay that had it's load-bearing side designed for much more (compressor, etc.).

 

[240z]

I used the wire going to the left fairing pocket latch.

 

[bigjohnsd]

I bought the Admore splice setup at the same time i Installed my Admore LED Lights in my Givi Top Box