Wicked Webby's Handle Bar Adjustment Guide

[MajBach]

I am still a little confused (but I find this happens more frequently each year

So, to clarify, can I adjust the angle (not just the front/back)? I really want a more 'pulled in' angle on my handle bars.

 

[Jon_PDX]

MajBach,

Per the factory it appears they are only adjustable forward and back which changes the pull-back of the bars in relation to the forks. Yamaha actually calls it pull-back in my owners manual.

But like you, from what I have read in this thread if you were to remove one locating pin (not sure if it's the inner or outer) from each bar you could change the angle (tip to tip distance) of the bars.

I don't have time right now to look back through this thread or I would quote back that part for you.

Hope that helps,

Jon...

 

[Smooth14u2]

Hello All,

Well, I decided to post this guide to get rid of some misinformation regarding the handle bar adjustment on the Generation II FJR's(06-07). This will show my adjustment from the middle position(stock) to the forward position(more aggressive riding position). I know some people have successfully adjusted their bars without lifting them off of the triple tree(I call it blindly). This guide is the way I chose to do it. Either way you choose to, I hope this guide gives you the information your looking for.

Start off by placing a towel over the gas tank, fairing area, and gages to protect it during the adjustment.

TOOLS REQUIRED: 2.5 MM allen wrench, 6mm allen wrench, 17mm socket with extension, med flat head screw driver

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5256.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

FIRST REMOVE THE HANDLE BAR CAPS (2.5mm Allen wrench):

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5247.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

SECOND REMOVE THE 6MM ALLEN BOLT AND 17MM NUT (If you are using a standard size socket you may need to have it only partially set in the extension at first to start removing it because of the threaded head that supports the handle bar cover.)

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5248.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5249.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Notice the pins underneath the handle bar plate. LEAVE THEM ALONE THEY DO NOT GET REMOVED!!!!

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5250.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Place the handle bar off on its side(on the towel)and secure it so it will not fall off the towel/bike.

Now take a look at what your dealing with:

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5251edit.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

THIRD, START PUSHING/PRYING THE SHAFT INTO THE POSITION YOU PREFER

(Forward, Middle , Rear; it should come stock in the middle position) UPDATE: When adjusting another fellow members bike, I

found that using the 6mm allen was much easier to pry with(and easier on the soft metal).

Note: I first used my hand to start moving the shaft forward and then assisted this by gently prying

the shaft into the forward position. Be careful not to mark up the soft aluminum when doing this.

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5252.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5253.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

NOW POSITION THE HANDLE BAR BACK INTO PLACE AND DOUBLE CHECK THAT BOTH PINS

ARE IN THE CORRECT POSITION(Forward, middle, rear)

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5254.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Now tighten down the 6mm allen bolt and the 17mm nut.. Remember that you may have to slightly separate the

socket from the extension to get the 17mm secured tightly if you are using a short socket. Then re-secure the

handle bar caps with the 2.5mm allen bolt. I tightened the 17mm nut and 6mm allen bolt good and tight..The way it

felt when I loosened it up. They were pretty darn tight. The covers I snugged tight but did not go crazy on.

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5247.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Now do the other side. After completed check them both to see that they have both been properly adjusted(even).

<img src="https://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa174/sqd657/DSCN5255.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

DONE!!!

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: REMEMBER TO PUMP UP YOUR CLUTCH AND FRONT BRAKES GOOD AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT.

WHEN THEY ARE TIPPED OVER THEY CAN LOSE SOME PRESSURE AND NEED TO BE PUMPED BACK UP. DO NOT JUST DRIVE OFF AND GO FOR A RIDE. YOU MAY NOT HAVE ENOUGH BRAKE PRESSURE OR CLUTCH PRESSURE TO OPERATE SAFELY!!!!

Hope this helps clear up and confusion about this adjustment. REMEMBER: THE PINS DO NOT GET REMOVED!!

WICKED WEBBY

<img src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" " border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Npce... Just got my 2012 and notihng showed/explained this. Thanks :yahoo:

 

[Goodman4]

This was helpful for me, too. I just put the GenMar risers on and moved them to the closest position. It's a little different to adjust with the GenMars, because they have you take out the wire looms. I had to drill out the little hole in the stock triple-tee because the close hole was not fully drilled. I'm no mechanic but it was pretty easy.

 

[20valves]

Handlebar adjustment procedure:
1. Remove 2.5mm allen bolts and cover plates from handlebars

2. Loosen 6mm allen head bolts on both sides

3. Loosen 17mm nut on both sides

4. Raise handlebar, one side at a time, just enough to clear the pins, and pull forward until pins lined up to new holes. Once pins inserted, insert allen head and snug down loosely to hold in place. Repeat for other bar.

5. Torque allen head screws and nuts: 6mm bolt: 17 ft-lb, 17mm nut: 47 ft-lb

6. Reinstall cover plates.

very easy, takes 5 minutes.

BTW, FWIW, this exact procedure applies to the 2013 bike as its bars and clamp are identical to Gen II bikes. Did mine today, as mentioned here, about 5 minutes and you're done.

 

[nervous]

I stumbled on this thread a month ago and was very intrugued as the solution to one issue with my '09 that has bothered me from the start: the unnatural grip angle that creates pain and fatigue on even moderate length rides. The idea of removing the outermost locating pin to allow the bar angle to change by rotating them slightly forward sounds like answer. My FJR came with bar risers installed so I was curious what I would find with them. I don't know the brand. And, since I haven't seen this particular setup covered in this thread I thought I'd add my experience.

So, what I firts found is that there was no longer any linking hardware under the upper triple clamp as has been referenced in the previous posts. Just two bolts holding everything together. This independence certainly simplifies things since each side has true independence. So the bottom of teh riser has two locatiing pins just lihe the bars and two holes on top to accommodate the bar pins. This made me happy because I would not have to do anything to the stock parts so my experiment could be 100% reversible if need be.

Here's what the underside looked like:

My first thought was that it would be super easy to cut off the pin but on looking closer I found that the pins were simply press fit in and they weer accessible through the top pin so a simple drift punch should drive them out with the added benefit that they could easily be drive back in if needed.

Here they are:

One thing I immediately noticed on a test reassembly is the small issue that the V-Strom handguards now hit the Bailey's screen at nearly full lock. Probably won't bother me but we'll see. I'll do the final torquing once my seat sets back from it's rebuild trip to Spencer's in Florida. Then I can set the bar angle. The forward motion I was able to get was not as much as I thought but a little may go a long way.

 

[Ugalug]

Handlebar adjustment procedure:1. Remove 2.5mm allen bolts and cover plates from handlebars

2. Loosen 6mm allen head bolts on both sides

3. Loosen 17mm nut on both sides

4. Raise handlebar, one side at a time, just enough to clear the pins, and pull forward until pins lined up to new holes. Once pins inserted, insert allen head and snug down loosely to hold in place. Repeat for other bar.

5. Torque allen head screws and nuts: 6mm bolt: 17 ft-lb, 17mm nut: 47 ft-lb

6. Reinstall cover plates.

very easy, takes 5 minutes.

BTW, FWIW, this exact procedure applies to the 2013 bike as its bars and clamp are identical to Gen II bikes. Did mine today, as mentioned here, about 5 minutes and you're done. :coolsmiley02:

Raining here today so I did this a few minutes ago and it was a piece of cake. Moved them to the rear position and hopefully it will help the comfort a bit.

 

[BruceWA]

Great work and post!! Will be making some changes just to try them out!! Thanks WW!

 

[Mike Aldea]

So glad to find this thread. I find I'm more comfortable in a more leaned forward postion than is currently setup on my FJR. I've been wanting to move my bars forward to get closer to the bar position on my C-10. Hopefully the European GPS mount the previous owner installed won't prevent me from moving the bars and gettng more comfortable on my FJR.

 

[Ignacio]

Well, I tried my own medicine that I prescribe so often on this forum. I've been a Gen 1 owner so long...I never paid much attention to the threads about adjusting handlebars. However, now that I'm a proud owner of a '14 I thought it would be a good thing to adjust this evening and was a bit confused when I opened things up. Using "handlebar adjustment" I found this thread in about 2 minutes, adjusted my bars with the wonderful added note about gently prying the bolt to one side with a 6mm hex....then 8mm...then 10mm, and then seated my bars in the new position. Never had to ask either!

Thank you FJR Forum members!