Wire Feed Welders

[08FJR4ME]

Thanks. Yeah I'm aware of those breakers. I'm still going to try going with a 110V welder for a few reasons, but if I find I need more a powerful one in the future I could do something like that.
Another quick question for the collective: I did not see anyone mention the Eastwood brand of welders. Looking at their MIG 135 in particular. They seem to be a bit less expensive than the Lincolns or Hobarts, but it appears that you have to buy them direct from the manufacturer. Not sure what's up with that.

I never have heard of that brand, The big three are Lincoln, Miller and Hobart. When I bought mine I googled searched for pricing. I ended up buying from a website much cheaper than buying from lincoln. I ocasionally get emails from lincoln with some really good pricing. If I get one I will forward it along to you.
Dave

 

[BullCBX]

Fred,

Agree with the majority of the comments made already, but just express my feelings on the flux core wire. The welder I purchased has the ability to do both (MIG and Flux core) and I find I keep it loaded with the flux core more often than not. The welding conditions are a lot more forgiving when welding with the flux core (material cleanliness, gap, and welder settings). I found it a lot easier to practice and “learn” to weld with the flux core and then move to the MIG set up. The flux core can also be used on light gauge sheet metal as well. It does splatter and you have to either chip or wire brush your finished welds, but I guess I’m one of those “strange” people that likes/prefers flux core.

 

[Auburn]

I have the Lincoln 210 MP (multi-process) welder. It can be run on either 110 or 240v. It comes with stick and mig welder setups. You can buy the tig setup separately, and you need the spool gun for ALU. One thing about a 240 v welder is that it gives you a longer time before you bump up against the duty cycle. 110v you will hit it pretty fast and then you have to let it cool down before you can continue. The 210 MP is good for up to 3/8" weld in a single pass for mig. But it really shines when doing thin stuff. The picture of the spot welds are in 22 gage steel, where is had full penetration, but did not burn through on the other side of the fenders (looking at the backside of the weld.)

What I like about the 210 MP is that you use the screen to tell it what process you are doing, what size & type of wire, gas or not, what thickness the metal is, and it is ready to go. Takes about 10 seconds. Then you can fine tune if you need too. Makes an amateur look like a very good welder.

 

[Fred W]

Like! (reached my quota today)

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Fred,

I would recommend getting a welder that can do either 110 or 220. If not, you will most likely be sorry and end up upgrading. My motto on purchases like this is "buy once, cry once". If I were in the market for a MIG, I would be taking a hard look at Lincoln and Hobart welders. I would also give the Harbor Freight Vulcan series a good look. The story is that someone from Lincoln went to Harbor Freight and started designing their welders for them.

You may want to peruse this thread: https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?704651-New-quot-Vulcan-quot-welder-line/page18

 

[Fred W]

Been going around and around on this decision. Reading, studying, watching too many welding videos on Youtube.

I think the 115V welders, even though limited, will suit my initial needs. The reason for my procrastinating was that I really wanted either a Lincoln or Hobart welder as the Chinese junk doesn't interest me. As an aside I figured out that the Eastwood line is all Chinese made. Even if I start welding 1/4" steel regularly and decide I need a higher amp 220V unit to make nice MIG welds on that, I can dedicate the 115V unit to flux core use and it will still have great utility as that.

Miller seems a bit over priced and their smaller units are somewhat suspect. Their industrial gear is fabulous, but I don't need anything that capable or expensive. Looking closely at the two remaining units: Lincoln Weld Pak 140 and Hobart Handler 140, it seems like the Hobart units are slightly better made to my eye. And although the components may be sourced overseas, at least they are still assembled in Ohio. So, I have pretty much settled on one of those.

Now it's just a matter of finding a good deal somewhere (Northern Tool seems to have them at $480 pretty regularly), or stumbling into someone who wants to unload a nearly new one with a bunch of accessories.

 

[Donal]

Fred, I believe the best advice you have been given is to attend a (local) training school and actually get some 'hands on' experience.

This will equip you to make the best decision. Relying on the web is never a great option...........

 

[FJRay]

I've been abusing my Hobart handler 175 for about 20 years and the only break down was a wire came off the switch in the handle. 5 minute fix.

I believe Miller has owned Hobart for some time so other than color they are the same machine with the clothes off.

 

[Geezer]

Tractor Supply has the Hobart Handler 140 on sale for Christmas.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-handler-140-mig-wire-welder

 

[Fred W]

Thanks Greg. Best price I've seen by $20. Headed over to pick one up this afternoon.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Does this mean we need a new thread on Welding experiances? Can't wait to see what you come up with since most of us have put there bikes away for the season. Don't forget to look for a coupon too.

Dave

 

[Geezer]

Thanks Greg. Best price I've seen by $20. Headed over to pick one up this afternoon.

I am always glad to help other people spend their money.

 

[Fred W]

Welder pR0n:

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Nice!!

Have you melted any metal with it yet?

 

[Fred W]

No, not yet. I’m not in a huge rush. My last day of work was Thursday, and the BBQ season doesn’t ramp up until mid-April up here, so I’ve got plenty of time to learn to use it. I’ve got a line on a free empty gas bottle, but will probably play around with the flux wire first then try the gas shielding.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

The flux core wire is nice because you can put a flux core tip on to see the puddle better. Plus you can weld outdoors without having to worry about the shielding gas being blown away.

 

[lonerider]

I have found that I can see the weld puddle much more clearly using a shade 9 lens in my hood, rather than the shade 10 that comes with most hoods. The arc from 110V welders isn't as bright as higher voltage ones.

 

[Fred W]

The flux core wire is nice because you can put a flux core tip on to see the puddle better. Plus you can weld outdoors without having to worry about the shielding gas being blown away.

Yes, and in the summer ideally I’d like to work outside. But the welds are messy compared to MIG.

I have found that I can see the weld puddle much more clearly using a shade 9 lens in my hood, rather than the shade 10 that comes with most hoods. The arc from 110V welders isn't as bright as higher voltage ones.

I’ve got a Hobart Endeavor adjustable / auto-darkening model on the way. I’ll keep your shade recommendation in mind.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Possible Fred project?

https://capecod.craigslist.org/grd/d/wood-fired-pizza-oven/6426599299.html

Dave

 

[Fred W]

Nice work, but Im not that into wood fired pizza

It does go to show what people are willing to pay for outdoor cooking appliances. :thumbsup: