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WTD - Steering Nut Wrench YU-33975

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Buuuuuut, those figgurin' numbers don't take into account the motion of the wrench about the pivot point... The wrench has no idea that it's attached to two, three or four inches of spanner. It just knows when it hits its set 10 ft. lbs. it must go 'click'.

Next... :)

 
Buuuuuut, those figgurin' numbers don't take into account the motion of the wrench about the pivot point... The wrench has no idea that it's attached to two, three or four inches of spanner. It just knows when it hits its set 10 ft. lbs. it must go 'click'.

Next... :)
Not good enough! The length of the adapter does not change the length between torque pivot (Bolt)and the handle at a right angle. No increase in length! No increase in torque! Back at cha!

 
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Buuuuuut, those figgurin' numbers don't take into account the motion of the wrench about the pivot point... The wrench has no idea that it's attached to two, three or four inches of spanner. It just knows when it hits its set 10 ft. lbs. it must go 'click'.

Next... :)

Huh? Pivot point, shmivit point.

When the wrench goes click, that means that you are applying XX ft /lbs of torque at the 1/2" or 3/8" square drive stub from the direction you are pushing the lever (ie perpendicular to the length of the wrench) and the length of the lever.

If you then have an additional lever attached to it, the amount of added torque transferred to the very end will depend entirely on how much it adds or subtracts from the length.

Sorry Nut, the phancy figgerin' numbers don't lie.

This one is easy enough to prove. No Mythbusters required. Just give it a try.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Buuuuuut, those figgurin' numbers don't take into account the motion of the wrench about the pivot point... The wrench has no idea that it's attached to two, three or four inches of spanner. It just knows when it hits its set 10 ft. lbs. it must go 'click'.

Next... :)

Huh? Pivot point, shmivit point.

When the wrench goes click, that means that you are applying XX ft /lbs of torque at the 1/2" or 3/8" square drive stub from the direction you are pushing the lever (ie perpendicular to the length of the wrench) and the length of the lever.

If you then have an additional lever attached to it, the amount of added torque transferred to the very end will depend entirely on how much it adds or subtracts from the length.

Sorry Nut, the phancy figgerin' numbers don't lie.

This one is easy enough to prove. No Mythbusters required. Just give it a try.

Yeah, well, yo mamma, then.

Ya know, sometimes it's just too easy... :p

 
OK... Can you all stop spinnin...I'm gettin dizzy...Oh..wait, it's this Troegs I'm drinking.

When the music stops every needs to find a seat.

 
Just for ***** and grins, I went to the manual (imagine that). It doesn't specify, but it does shows it in there at a right angle (90 degrees) to the wrench in a sketch.

 
Hey Fred Get with me some time ,I think I can help you out with the manufacture of this tool .

I have the equipment to make what you want .

I might even make one for myself .

If someone has a drawing It would help.

Jarmo
FWIW, here ya go.
1zu6md.jpg


 
I learned something today. Working through that Torque Proof was almost as painful as translating a madmike2 post :p , but it was good exercise for my remaining brain cells.

Keep in mind if you use a modified socket to torque the nut, the Yammi spec goes out the door.
I thought what Rad meant was that chopping up a socket would make the socket flex. I didn't think he was referring to moment arms and such.

Zorlac,

Thanks for the drawing. All we need now is the distance from the center of the nut to the center of the 8 point hole in the tool (and the thickness of the tool)

FWIW the money for that Yammi tool isn't the solid gold core, it's that 8 point hole.

 
Keep in mind if you use a modified socket to torque the nut, the Yammi spec goes out the door.
I thought what Rad meant was that chopping up a socket would make the socket flex. I didn't think he was referring to moment arms and such.
We're talking about applying 37 ft/lbs so it doesn't have to be all that strong. Applying that torque equally through 6 "pins" engaged into the 6 castelated slots in the head nuts, rather than on just one slot as the Yamaha spanner does, would mean the torque being applied via each pin was very small. Not likely to break even a home ground socket.

FWIW the money for that Yammi tool isn't the solid gold core, it's that 8 point hole.
And the 8 point hole in the Yamaha tool is obviously not needed. Its really just 2 square holes rotates 45 degrees, for what purpose is hard to say. Bling factor? Perhaps to accommodate a beam type torque wrench?

So Joe, I'm glad that you showed up in this thread. Having seen some of your beautiful work in the mirror standoff experiments, what do you think it would cost to knock out a handful of the Meissner style tools? How about the socket style tools?

 
I would be nice if a machinist could just castellate a deep socket so that it would just drop in the grooves of the nut.
Examples over over kill

..., what do you think it would cost to knock out a handful of the Meissner style tools? How about the socket style tools?
I won't be able to get around to it until later in the year.

I'm pressed for time right now.

If someone wants to do my Audiovox CC install using v65's method, I will trade either style tool for your time (I supply the AVCC). Or, mount my new PR2 on the rear rim for me and I'll trade a Meissner style wrench for your time. Hell, I'll even engrave it for ya

If you have any experience roofing, PM me! You can pound nails while I make whatever custom tools your heart desires. :D

Gotta go, the ToDo list is calling.

 
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