Yet Another Audiovox Cruise Install

[user 17635]

(That wasn't you, was it??!)

Just to confirm: no, that wasn't me. B)

 

[Karmak]

It sounds like the "fuel rail" is actually the same as the "injector rail", and that has already been removed in my case.
I think I still may go ahead and remove the TBs, though, because even if I get this screw off of the tang, I would still need to find a way to mount the cable to it with a new screw, and I just don't see how it could be done without dropping parts into the engine compartment. Also, I hate the idea of using the Dremel in that area.

Have someone hold the throttle (partially) open for you, or rig something up to hold the throttle open. This will move the tang into a position that is much easier to access. I had no problems drilling the tang, mounting hardware to it and grinding the head of the screw a bit with the fuel rail removed and the throttle held partially open.

+1-I used tape to hold the throttle open, which holds the tang well within reach. No need to take the throttle bodies off.

If you're afraid of things falling into the engine, also stuff a rag under the tang to catch anything that may fall. You can also have one of those magnets on hand, just in case.

 

[Woketman]

Can anyone tell me exactly where, physically, I can find the wire that supplies the tach/coil signal for the Audiovox CC?

Thanks guys!!!

 

[Roy Epperson]

Can anyone tell me exactly where, physically, I can find the wire that supplies the tach/coil signal for the Audiovox CC?
Thanks guys!!!

If my website is correct,

Here is a blue Posi-T.ap connecting the servo's blue tach signal wire to the orange coil wire coming out of the ECU. I cut the blue wire between the servo and the "suppressor" (under the do not remove sticker) and shortened the wire so the suppressor laid along side the servo. The other end was then cut and attached to the Posi-Tap.

my installation page
I don't have the side cover off to double check, but if I recall correctly, it is in the first third of the left hand side of the ECU connector facing the back of the connector

 

[user 17635]

If my website is correct,

Here is a blue Posi-T.ap connecting the servo's blue tach signal wire to the orange coil wire coming out of the ECU. I cut the blue wire between the servo and the "suppressor" (under the do not remove sticker) and shortened the wire so the suppressor laid along side the servo. The other end was then cut and attached to the Posi-Tap.

my installation page
I don't have the side cover off to double check, but if I recall correctly, it is in the first third of the left hand side of the ECU connector facing the back of the connector

Yeah, if it's a Gen 2, you can use the Orange wire (also has greenish spots on it) under the left side cover. You can just undo the tape on the big black wire covering to the left of the ECU (it is also stuck together with weak adhesive) to access the wire you need. It connects to pin 1 or 2 in the connector (strangely, I think mine does not match the FSM for where it should be connected on the ECU harness, but since my bike works, I didn't worry about that).

Of course, maybe I should not say anything with confidence since I have yet to finish the job and put it all back together.

Speaking of wire connectors, I noticed that the brake wire on my bike (the yellow with green line) was definitely 12V with the brake on, but it was also 8.3V with the brake off. Is this normal? I thought it would be zero with the brake off, but it wasn't. I tested it several times, using a screw head for the ground (I confirmed continuity between the screw head and the ground on the battery prior to doing this test).

 

[Roy Epperson]

Speaking of wire connectors, I noticed that the brake wire on my bike (the yellow with green line) was definitely 12V with the brake on, but it was also 8.3V with the brake off. Is this normal? I thought it would be zero with the brake off, but it wasn't. I tested it several times, using a screw head for the ground (I confirmed continuity between the screw head and the ground on the battery prior to doing this test).

Do you have anything else connected to the brake line.

 

[wfooshee]

Speaking of wire connectors, I noticed that the brake wire on my bike (the yellow with green line) was definitely 12V with the brake on, but it was also 8.3V with the brake off. Is this normal? I thought it would be zero with the brake off, but it wasn't. I tested it several times, using a screw head for the ground (I confirmed continuity between the screw head and the ground on the battery prior to doing this test).

An LED kit like hyperlites or similar will do that. You're one of the "lucky" ones who will have to put trigger a relay with your brake lights and use the relay to switch the 12 volts into the cruise when the brakes are on.

 

[user 17635]

An LED kit like hyperlites or similar will do that. You're one of the "lucky" ones who will have to put trigger a relay with your brake lights and use the relay to switch the 12 volts into the cruise when the brakes are on.

No LEDs. Pure stock.

I don't get it. :dntknw:

 

[UselessPickles]

Can anyone tell me exactly where, physically, I can find the wire that supplies the tach/coil signal for the Audiovox CC?
Thanks guys!!!

I made a little adapter with spade connectors to get the signal right from the coil, just like this guy did: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=198997

Although it may be hard to believe based on my Motty AFR Tuner installation, I do like to minimize the amount of modification I do to stock wiring

 

[wfooshee]

An LED kit like hyperlites or similar will do that. You're one of the "lucky" ones who will have to put trigger a relay with your brake lights and use the relay to switch the 12 volts into the cruise when the brakes are on.

No LEDs. Pure stock.

I don't get it. :dntknw:

Seems like I've read that before (voltage on the wire with no brakes) with some Gen-II bikes. Dunno for sure, never put one on a Gen-II.

 

[NSrider]

An LED kit like hyperlites or similar will do that. You're one of the "lucky" ones who will have to put trigger a relay with your brake lights and use the relay to switch the 12 volts into the cruise when the brakes are on.

No LEDs. Pure stock.

I don't get it. :dntknw:

Seems like I've read that before (voltage on the wire with no brakes) with some Gen-II bikes. Dunno for sure, never put one on a Gen-II.

I have the Light blazer's on my 08, but I had no problems when I installed my CC. I had a very low voltage reading but nothing that affected the operation of the CC.

 

[user 17635]

I have the Light blazer's on my 08, but I had no problems when I installed my CC. I had a very low voltage reading but nothing that affected the operation of the CC.

I wonder if the reading is different depending on whether or not the brake lights are connected.

I have been testing the voltage by disconnecting the 6-wire harness near the ECU and probing the contacts in it. Could I expect different readings while the brake lights are actually connected? Could that be why I am seeing voltage when there should be none?

I will test this theory later this afternoon.

And now I will also need to take the coolant pipe back out, because I am pretty certain I neglected to remove the jumper from the Servo to indicate a manual transmission. :banghead: Apparently, I suck at this.

-Dan

 

[wfooshee]

Ah, well, yeah, that'd probably do it if that's disconnecting the bulbs at the back from the brake light relay at the front. Without the bulb there's no ground on that circuit.

 

[user 17635]

Wow, this just became a much more expensive installation. I had to remove the coolant pipe to get to the servo so I could remove that jumper. In order to remove the pipe, I had to pull the spark plug connectors. #2 wire got stuck under a throttle cable or something, and I managed to pull the darn thing right off of the base. So now the plug connector is completely separated from the wire. $85, because I have to buy the whole plug-cap assembly - can't get just one wire. I am afraid to know what kind of work is going to be involved in this new repair job.

Oh, and while removing the first screw from the back of the servo, the unit slipped from my grasp and the screw fell into the bike. I have no idea where it is. I had a rag stuck underneath it, but it got lost in a fold, and as I pulled the rag out (slowly), I heard the screw jingling as it fell. I don't know if it is even ferrous enough to be picked up with a magnet, if I could find it.

What a disaster. I am afraid to do anything else.

Oh, but I did confirm that with the brake lights connected, the yellow wire goes from 0V to 12V, so there's that.

Why do I even need Cruise control???

Correction: $85 is price for one plug-cap assembly. I misread the schematic.

 

[RadioHowie]

Wow, this just became a much more expensive installation. I had to remove the coolant pipe to get to the servo so I could remove that jumper. In order to remove the pipe, I had to pull the spark plug connectors. #2 wire got stuck under a throttle cable or something, and I managed to pull the darn thing right off of the base. So now the plug connector is completely separated from the wire. $85, because I have to buy the whole plug-cap assembly - can't get just one wire. I am afraid to know what kind of work is going to be involved in this new repair job.Oh, and while removing the first screw from the back of the servo, the unit slipped from my grasp and the screw fell into the bike. I have no idea where it is. I had a rag stuck underneath it, but it got lost in a fold, and as I pulled the rag out (slowly), I heard the screw jingling as it fell. I don't know if it is even ferrous enough to be picked up with a magnet, if I could find it.

What a disaster. I am afraid to do anything else.

Oh, but I did confirm that with the brake lights connected, the yellow wire goes from 0V to 12V, so there's that.

Why do I even need Cruise control???

The plug wires screw into the plug "caps".

They pull out easy....and screw back in easy.

Don't Panic!!

 

[user 17635]

The plug wires screw into the plug "caps".
They pull out easy....and screw back in easy.

You're telling me that this wire:

Can be reconnected to this part?:

It didn't look to me like it was supposed to come apart. I can push the wire back into the cap, but I have no idea of it is actually making the connection that needs to be there or not.

 

[RadioHowie]

The plug wires screw into the plug "caps".
They pull out easy....and screw back in easy.

You're telling me that this wire:

Can be reconnected to this part?:

It didn't look to me like it was supposed to come apart. I can push the wire back into the cap, but I have no idea of it is actually making the connection that needs to be there or not.

That's exactly what I mean. Push the wire in the cap and "screw" the cap back onto the wire. Easy-peasy.

Did ya already spend the $85???

 

[user 17635]

Did ya already spend the $85???

Ahh. Well, that is some good news right there. No, I didn't spend the $85 already. Just looked for the price. I was hoping it was a simple reconnect, but the way things have been going for me, I was preparing for the worst.

Thanks so much for the quick response and info!

Now, if I can just find that tiny black screw form the servo...

 

[Woketman]

Are you worried about the black screw becoming FOD, or are you simply concerned cause you need the screw on the Audiovox unit. You can easily find another screw to fit the unit.

 

[wfooshee]

Had you pulled the wire out at the other end . . . . Well, the other end don't come out! Then you'da had to spend the change for a coil assembly. The plug wires are integrated into the coils, not spearate wires like you'd see on a car.

But RH has steered you correctly on the cap. If you need to trim an eighth inch or so off the wire to clean the end up that's fine, but then all you do is stick the wire into the cap, then turn the cap like it was a nut on a bolt.

Pull the plug wires off the plugs by gripping the boot, not the wire.