Yet Another Audiovox Cruise Install

[user 17635]

My 2006 manual shows it at the front of the battery. Can't say it's still there for 2008, but it probably is. I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

I thought a 2006 was a Gen II...?

 

[Patriot]

My 2006 manual shows it at the front of the battery. Can't say it's still there for 2008, but it probably is. I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

I thought a 2006 was a Gen II...?

it is, but there were some minor changes made between '06-'07 bikes and '08-'09 bikes

tension/tightness lowered on the throttle is one

 

[wfooshee]

I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

Bet you have with your eyes.

Well, there was this one GenII rider that left little to the imagination at the motel room door . . . . . :wub:

 

[RadioHowie]

I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

Bet you have with your eyes.

Well, there was this one GenII rider that left little to the imagination at the motel room door . . . . . :wub:

I just threw up a little in my mouth! uke:

 

[NSrider]

Wfooshee, Where exactly is the brake light relay located? I have all the tupperware off my bike right now and may move the red wire to the brake light circuit at the front while i am at it.

My 2006 manual shows it at the front of the battery. Can't say it's still there for 2008, but it probably is. I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

There are two relays at the front of the battery, the inboard relay is the only one with a brown wire. I'll connect the red wire to that one and see what happens.

 

[wfooshee]

Wfooshee, Where exactly is the brake light relay located? I have all the tupperware off my bike right now and may move the red wire to the brake light circuit at the front while i am at it.

My 2006 manual shows it at the front of the battery. Can't say it's still there for 2008, but it probably is. I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

There are two relays at the front of the battery, the inboard relay is the only one with a brown wire. I'll connect the red wire to that one and see what happens.

It's the same as the brown wire at either of the horns, if that's easier to get to . . . . Carries 12 volt supply from the signalling fuse.

 

[Woketman]

OK, I am officially DONE!!! Just finished installation: cut wires to length and routed, soldered everything and finished with the heat shrink tubing. What a job this was, holy crap!!!

My only oddity with it is it does not feel as locked in as I would like. Perhaps I am spoiled by the crispness of the cruise in my '06 Altima SE-R. I set the sensitivity on the servo to "low" (as recommended by one of these threads), perhaps higher would be better. I don't know. I do know that there is no way in hell that I am going to EVER take that damn coolant tube off again unless my life depends on it!!

I want to thank all of you profusely for all of the info, help, moral support, and for putting up with dozens of dumb-a_s questions from me. THANK YOU!!!!

 

[user 17635]

I did a test ride today. By some miracle, the Cruise Control actually worked! I just did a quick test, but it would lock, decel, accel, and even resume properly. It seemed a little slow to shut off with the clutch pulled (engine speed increased by about 1000 RPM before coming back down), but it did disengage.

I wired it up with just the single 3-position switch, but I think I want to add a cancel button. I may see if I can add a momentary-off button in the power line to do that.

The only issue is that the wire conduit going from the front of the engine to the left side is pushing on the heat shield, causing it to leave a 1/2-inch gap between the frame and the plastic shield. I don't want that to let hot air from the motor hit me while riding, so I will see if I can move the wires around to correct it.

Thanks to all those who helped (or tried to)!

Now maybe changing the jetting on my dirt bike will help restore my confidence as a weekend mechanic after this debacle.

-Dan

 

[Woketman]

For those others of you out there that have an AE and are contemplating the Audiovox cruise, let me say this: I was VERY surprised that whenever the cruise control is engaged, and I hit the shifter either up or down, the cruise immediately disengages. No revving up of the engine or anything, just a simple cancellation. Wonderful! It must have a set rpm increase/decrease per unit time that it will not violate and automatically cancels. Works wonderfully!

 

[Harald]

Pull the plug wires off the plugs by gripping the boot, not the wire.

Yeah, I got that!

I got it back together, and it seemed to get tight when I screwed the cap back onto the wire, so I think it's all good now. I tightened the others while I was at it, since this one came off pretty easily, and I could tighten all of them a half-turn or so.

Also, it seems I was fortunate that the bike was on the side stand (I don't usually work on it like that, but I had moved it out of the way last night to get my wife's car into the garage) and I spotted the screw sitting in a nook at the left edge of the engine.

So with a big sigh of relief, for those keeping score at home: The jumper is off the servo, the cover is back on the servo with both screws intact, the coolant pipe is back in place, and the spark plug wires for all 4 plugs are intact and reconnected.

And, with the use of a well-fitting screwdriver bit and needle nose pliers, I was even able to loosen the screw in the tang. So, I may yet be able to get this job done, and without removing the throttlebodies, to boot. Still don't know how I am going to get the additional nuts onto the screw, but at least it's more feasible now that the screw can be turned by its head. I did it once already, but it's lot harder when you also have to get the end of the beaded chain and a washer into place while you do it.

Thanks guys!

-Dan

I'm a little late reading this thread, but just want to throw out a suggestion for future reference. Use dielectric grease on the inside of those spark plug boots and around the edge that seals up against the valve cover. Makes for MUCH easier removal next time with less chance of ripping the wire off again.

Glad to hear your AVCC is working. I love mine! :yahoo:

 

[Woketman]

Harald, where exactly can we get that grease and can you list several example brands so that we are certain to get the good stuff? Thanks!

 

[Patriot]

Harald, where exactly can we get that grease and can you list several example brands so that we are certain to get the good stuff? Thanks!

<I honestly can't tell if you are asking tongue in cheek, you rocket scientist engineer>

any will do fine...there's no quality issue with dielectric, bulb, or electrical grease

whatever the auto parts store has...I actually mail ordered every strength Honda brand "loctite" and a tube of Honda dielectric grease

but these guys make good stuff as you say:

 

[Woketman]

No Mike, I was actually being serious. The reason that I had asked was that the only dielectric grease I ever had was for electronics and was in a very small tube. I just never noticed that stuff in Napa. That is EXACTLY what I need. Thanks bro!!!

 

[Harald]

No Mike, I was actually being serious. The reason that I had asked was that the only dielectric grease I ever had was for electronics and was in a very small tube. I just never noticed that stuff in Napa. That is EXACTLY what I need. Thanks bro!!!

Mike beat me to it - any kind works and every auto parts store has some. I have a small aerosol can of dielectric grease, but can't remember the brand. The can stopped spraying but there was clearly a lot of grease left inside, so I cut the bottom of the can off and have been scooping it out with a popsicle stick for the last couple years. I use it on any connectors exposed to weather and all spark plug/wiring connections. My V10 Ford required numerous plug boots after the first plug change (they tore on removal) because the factory obviously doesn't use grease on assembly. After lubing them, the boots come off in one piece now! :yahoo: