willboe
Well-known member
I have read the threads dealing with complaints similar to those in the topic title above. My 2006 AE began to exhibit this behavior a couple of months ago. It really would only do this (refuse to shift into first gear) when the engine was stone cold, or if I stopped for a while (lunch for instance) and the bike cooled a bit. I got it to shift by 'resetting' the system (turn the key off, then back on, wait for diagnostic tests, enable the paddle shifter, shift into first gear real quick. I bled/replaced the dot 4 in the YCC system (it was due anyway), and this seemed to help a bit, but the phenomenon re-occurred in short order. A better (short term) fix was to turn the ignition on, enable the paddle shifter, and quickly shift into first with the engine off. Then I start the engine, and off I would go. I keep mentioning the paddle shifter because I like it. The foot shifter exhibited the same behavior as the paddle shifter. If one worked the other worked, and vice versa. Finally it started to screw up occasionally even using the 'shift with motor off' method . . . My riding buddies kept saying, "One of these days that thing is going to strand you." I said, "Well It certainly has given me plenty of warning." So I fixed it . . .
Yep, even I can only procrastinate for so long. Okay, right to the quick. After looking at my records, I realized this problem occurred within 100 miles or so of my changing my oil & filter. Trying for frugal, and high tech, I purchased a couple of gallons of Shell Rotella T6 synthetic oil from Walmart for about $21 per gallon, and a filter from the Yamaha dealer, and did my oil change. Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic is a Heavy Duty Diesel rated oil. A friend who used to build uber drag racing engines among other things, had told my that he had great results using 'Diesel' oils in his vehicles over the years. I also have read that many of our forum members use, or have used this oil. In spite of these reported good results, my AE shifting system/clutch did not seem to like the additives in this oil. The closest motorcycle store to me is a Honda Dealer, so I purchased 5 quarts of their Petroleum/Synthetic blend oil in 20/50 weight, with "No Moly" on the label & changed the oil again.
When the new oil was in, I started the motor, waited a few seconds, enabled the paddle shifter, and shifted cleanly into first gear. That quick it was done. The blinking light, rough running, won't shift stuff was gone. I have put three or four hundred miles on the bike representing about 5 cold starts, and maybe the same number of cool oil starts since the oil change was done. This is not an extensive test, but the problem is completely gone so far. I hope it stays that way.
The oil I put in the bike was a Honda product, but the Yamaha semi-Syn 20/50 I have used in the past worked just fine too. I believe plain old 20/40, or 20/50 SAE would work fine too as long as the oil contains NO friction modifiers, or whatever the hell additives are in Rotella T6.
Yep, even I can only procrastinate for so long. Okay, right to the quick. After looking at my records, I realized this problem occurred within 100 miles or so of my changing my oil & filter. Trying for frugal, and high tech, I purchased a couple of gallons of Shell Rotella T6 synthetic oil from Walmart for about $21 per gallon, and a filter from the Yamaha dealer, and did my oil change. Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic is a Heavy Duty Diesel rated oil. A friend who used to build uber drag racing engines among other things, had told my that he had great results using 'Diesel' oils in his vehicles over the years. I also have read that many of our forum members use, or have used this oil. In spite of these reported good results, my AE shifting system/clutch did not seem to like the additives in this oil. The closest motorcycle store to me is a Honda Dealer, so I purchased 5 quarts of their Petroleum/Synthetic blend oil in 20/50 weight, with "No Moly" on the label & changed the oil again.
When the new oil was in, I started the motor, waited a few seconds, enabled the paddle shifter, and shifted cleanly into first gear. That quick it was done. The blinking light, rough running, won't shift stuff was gone. I have put three or four hundred miles on the bike representing about 5 cold starts, and maybe the same number of cool oil starts since the oil change was done. This is not an extensive test, but the problem is completely gone so far. I hope it stays that way.
The oil I put in the bike was a Honda product, but the Yamaha semi-Syn 20/50 I have used in the past worked just fine too. I believe plain old 20/40, or 20/50 SAE would work fine too as long as the oil contains NO friction modifiers, or whatever the hell additives are in Rotella T6.
