AE blinky 'Shift' light, Runs Rough, Won't shift into first, around 26K miles, etc.

[Burnspot]

Not too dip my toe too deeply into the NEPRT world of oil, but Rotella is a JASO MA rated lubricant, i.e. no friction-reducing modifiers and safe for motorcycles. It's widely used around here.

Good luck!

 

[willboe]

Not too dip my toe too deeply into the NEPRT world of oil, but Rotella is a JASO MA rated lubricant, i.e. no friction-reducing modifiers and safe for motorcycles. It's widely used around here.
Good luck!

"safe for motorcycles". I Believe it! I actually think the clutch plates like it a little better than other oils I have used. BUT some parts in the YCCS may not be happy with the diesel additives ? ? ? I could be a victim of 'Post hoc ergo propter hoc' logic here, but: change the oil, problem Gone. (So far any way) The only warning I might pass on to others regarding T6, at this point is: Maybe not For AEs with over 26K miles. Fair enough?

 

[odot]

willboe.....these members here won't listen. They've been running their oil for "billions" of miles with nary a problem. Any bit of negativity concerning said oil will run you into the brick wall of fjrforum stoicism.

 

[willboe]

willboe.....these members here won't listen. They've been running their oil for "billions" of miles with nary a problem. Any bit of negativity concerning said oil will run you into the brick wall of fjrforum stoicism.

No problem. It also may help a nervous AE owner out of a jam. Besides, I thought the 'Doubting Thomas' contingent were pretty civilized. So far anyway.

 

[SkooterG]

You gotta be kidding me......

Off to NEPRT!

 

[RiderX]

I'm no mechanic, but no part of the YCCS has anything to do with engine oil. Yes the clutch itself wet and is much the same as non-AE clutch just controlled differently. Neutral is in a different spot as well on the transmission.

The actuator and other YCCS parts you speak of are exposed to electrical signals and DOT4.

Glad your ride is back up.

 

[fastpappy]

Gotta luv these oil threads.Whether T6 is the cause or not just makes me wanna stay with my easy to obtain, Wallyworldz packaged 5 gal jug of Mobil1.

I may try the Mobile 1 (bout $5.50 per quart at Costco) at some point if I can find somebody to tell me it has NO friction modifiers.

If your going to try the Mobil 1 just be sure it's the one formulated for motorcycles. I don't think I've seen it at that low of a price, at least in my area.

 

[LAF]

Gotta luv these oil threads.Whether T6 is the cause or not just makes me wanna stay with my easy to obtain, Wallyworldz packaged 5 gal jug of Mobil1.

I may try the Mobile 1 (bout $5.50 per quart at Costco) at some point if I can find somebody to tell me it has NO friction modifiers.

If your going to try the Mobil 1 just be sure it's the one formulated for motorcycles. I don't think I've seen it at that low of a price, at least in my area.

No need to use the V-Twin Mobil One. No reason at all unless it is to lessen your wallet. As long as it is not a Energy Efficient oil, be it Synth or Dino, your motor does not know the difference, period!

It is the clutch we are concerned with and nothing else as far as additives or lack of them to be precise.

I use Risoline in any oil I add Dino or Synth.

https://www.barsproducts.com/catalog/view/22-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4401?gclid=CKig4aGS6LUCFUVnOgodFlsANQ

I also use 1 tbs of Molybdenum disulfide in my Final Drive. I use this product and while not cheap at a tbs a change I feel better using it. I have this bottle hanging around from the BMW K 1200 LT. This is the Dow product I use.

https://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=28EN&DCCSF=1622EN

Automotive versus Motorcycle oil other than High Efficiency oils is a myth and a money grabber. A worse farce then the Dino vs Synth debate.

 

[Top_Speed1]

I've always used the plain (I think but see below) Mobil1 15w50 synth in a 5 gal jug offered here at wallyworld, if my last years memory serves me correct it was around $25 and an oil change fits the 5qt jug size perfectly. I've never seen on the jug any "additives" as mentioned but the webstats have what is copied below.... I may be using the wrong earl for my AE but so far it has served quite well. I will def switch if convinced it is the wrong earl for my AE's clutch.

From their words...

Mobil 1 15W-50 meets or exceeds the requirements of the industry and car manufacturers' standards required for high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel-injected engines. Mobil 1 15W-50 is a winning, race-proven technology. It is especially suited for a wide variety of motorsports applications, towing and other severe service situations. Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic motor oil helps provide outstanding motor oil performance and protection for the winning edge. Mobil 1 is the official motor oil of NASCAR.
Mobil 1 15W-50 5-Quart:

• Advanced full synthetic formulaHelps prevent deposits and sludge build-up to enable long engine life
• Excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving styles

[*]Outstanding thermal and oxidation stability
[*]Outstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in a vehicle's owner's manual
[*]Extra protection for severe service
[*]Extra anti-wear additive
[*]Especially suited for a wide variety of motorsports applications
[*]The official motor oil of NASCAR
[*]5-qt plastic bottle with easy-grip handle and screw-cap
[*]Model# 98KG86
------------/switching over to the Mobil1 10w30 I see different verbage/-----------


Mobil 1 10W-30 is an advanced full synthetic engine oil designed to keep your engine running like new by providing exceptional wear protection, cleaning power and overall performance. Mobil 1 meets or exceeds the requirements of the industry's toughest standards and outperforms conventional oils. Mobil 1 technology comes as standard equipment in many different vehicles, including select high-performance vehicles.
Mobil 1 10W-30, 5qt:

• Advanced full synthetic formula
• Helps prevent deposits and sludge build-up to enable long engine life
• Excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving styles
• Outstanding thermal and oxidation stability
• Outstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in a vehicle's owners manual
• Superb viscosity control
• Enhanced frictional properties
• Aids fuel economy
• Excellent low temperature capabilities
• Quick cold weather starting for ultra fast protection
• Helps to extend engine life and reduce stress on starting system components

 

[willboe]

I'm no mechanic, but no part of the YCCS has anything to do with engine oil. Yes the clutch itself wet and is much the same as non-AE clutch just controlled differently. Neutral is in a different spot as well on the transmission. The actuator and other YCCS parts you speak of are exposed to electrical signals and DOT4. Glad your ride is back up.

Thanks Mountain. After my, 'I changed out the T6 oil, and it now works.' statement, I was speculating a bit about the 'valves & solenoids' sticking stuff. I do have a full service manual, and I will look at the whole YCCS system. If you are right, which seems reasonable, I am back to: 'unusual force needed to shift, when the engine is cold or cool, occasionally triggering a YCCS fault at start-up, due to incompatible oil' thingy. < more speculation, but based upon my undeniable experience with Syn oil & my 1996 virago clutch. The T6 fans will not be happy. Again though, I AM possibly subject to a BIG coincidence, leading to a: 'post hoc ergo propter hoc' logic assumption. Still, for the several AE owners claiming some anomalies with their YCCS shift systems around 26K miles, and those AE owners who might experience this in the future, changing out the oil is a pretty inexpensive troubleshooting tool.

 

[RiderX]

Baseless Speculation to follow

It could be for every issue at 26k there are 500 with no issue (like mine). I've only heard of a couple and we tend to hear from those with problems. My Yamaha technician buddy (just picked up a job as their regional tech coord) claims they are very reliable.

I've run a lot of of rotella both Dino and Syn (with loads of oil analysis), but the anecdotals probably don't matter. I am no expert!

Looking at the serv manuals, the clutch itself functions identically, but I could be missing something.

Is there any possibility air got induced when you bled the DOT4? How's your idle?

Perplexing for sure. Glad it is working.

 

[mcatrophy]

...I am back to: 'unusual force needed to shift, when the engine is cold or cool, occasionally triggering a YCCS fault at start-up, ...

If the YCC-S detects any fault, e.g. "unusual force needed" or "clutch movement not what was expected", it will put up an SH__nn code as well as turn on the orange fault light, which is why I asked if there was an error code in my earlier post.

Maybe it's worth looking through the diagnostic history in case there was one, but you didn't see it?

If there is none, it sounds like a (non-YCCS specific) electrical fault to make the engine run rough and flicker the fault light.

 

[willboe]

...I am back to: 'unusual force needed to shift, when the engine is cold or cool, occasionally triggering a YCCS fault at start-up, ...

If the YCC-S detects any fault, e.g. "unusual force needed" or "clutch movement not what was expected", it will put up an SH__nn code as well as turn on the orange fault light, which is why I asked if there was an error code in my earlier post.

Maybe it's worth looking through the diagnostic history in case there was one, but you didn't see it?

If there is none, it sounds like a (non-YCCS specific) electrical fault to make the engine run rough and flicker the fault light.

I will look at the diagnostic history. Can you tell me how to do that in an acceptable number of words, or should I look it up?

 

[mcatrophy]

...I am back to: 'unusual force needed to shift, when the engine is cold or cool, occasionally triggering a YCCS fault at start-up, ...

If the YCC-S detects any fault, e.g. "unusual force needed" or "clutch movement not what was expected", it will put up an SH__nn code as well as turn on the orange fault light, which is why I asked if there was an error code in my earlier post.

Maybe it's worth looking through the diagnostic history in case there was one, but you didn't see it?

If there is none, it sounds like a (non-YCCS specific) electrical fault to make the engine run rough and flicker the fault light.

I will look at the diagnostic history. Can you tell me how to do that in an acceptable number of words, or should I look it up?

Best to look in your workshop manual, they've made it a fairly tedious process. The "special tool" is simply a connector that short-circuits the two connections in the plug hanging out of the loom near the glove-box.

 

[willboe]

...I am back to: 'unusual force needed to shift, when the engine is cold or cool, occasionally triggering a YCCS fault at start-up, ...

If the YCC-S detects any fault, e.g. "unusual force needed" or "clutch movement not what was expected", it will put up an SH__nn code as well as turn on the orange fault light, which is why I asked if there was an error code in my earlier post.

Maybe it's worth looking through the diagnostic history in case there was one, but you didn't see it?

If there is none, it sounds like a (non-YCCS specific) electrical fault to make the engine run rough and flicker the fault light.

I will look at the diagnostic history. Can you tell me how to do that in an acceptable number of words, or should I look it up?

Best to look in your workshop manual, they've made it a fairly tedious process. The "special tool" is simply a connector that short-circuits the two connections in the plug hanging out of the loom near the glove-box.

Thanks for the tip on diagnostic history. I just checked out your website. Your 2010 FJR is one beautiful bike. I was surprised to see that the handlebars are not on the right though . . .

 

[mcatrophy]

...Thanks for the tip on diagnostic history. I just checked out your website. Your 2010 FJR is one beautiful bike. I was surprised to see that the handlebars are not on the right though . . .

I agree about the bike.

As for the handlebars, Yamaha decided that as the UK market (together with the Australians, New Zealanders, their own Japanese customers, and one or two others) was so small, they'd make us put up with the same cack-handed configuration as the rest of the world

.