Fred W and TMJ's Vacation Ride to the Great Divide

I'm sure you have left Cody but the museum is something you should see! Went there a few years back and was completely taken aback! Also the Irma if it is still there was fun too.

I always encourage people to ride over the Bighorns. The sweepers at the bottom (as Fred now knows) are just amazing. The climb is incredible. You might find other rides you think are "as" spectacular, but it's pretty hard to beat overall.... and I've ridden it when I was practically the only one on the road. Glad you're enjoying the West.

Damn you. I am supposed to be cleaning and packing , but instead I am reading Janes logs from last years trip. Looks like we were on the Chief Joseph and Beartooth on day 28. It doesn't matter how long you go for it is never enough,

except of course for the wallet.

What a day. This morning, starting bright and early, we rode Chief Joseph and Beartooth Highways. I never imagined it would be as big as it really is.

I'm a big boy, and I'll admit right here out in the public that those higher elevations gave me some severe ass puckering. It definitely threw me off my riding game. Made me recognize my own mortality and limitations.

But my gawd, the scenery is just outrageous! I was sensory overloaded before we finished the Chief J.

This afternoon we took another ride out into the big wide open spaces of Montana to get calmed down and .

Then we rolled into Butte (in some pretty extreme heat) and just had to simmer down for a while. Tonight we ooked up with forum member Big Sky (at his favorite hole in the wall bar) and had a couple of drinks and chewed the fat for a while. Then it was out for some sammiches for dinner near the hotel.

Sorry folks but I'm totally spent right now. I'll try to catch up tomorrow night.

Fred W said:

Sorry folks but I'm totally spent right now. I'll try to catch up tomorrow night.

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And that's a good thing.

You are doing fine. You are entitled to some rest.

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Okay, that should be enough time. Get back to work on our RR.!

Fred...hope you guys have another GREAT day today.

Awesome report so far Fred! Really enjoying it...

Redfish Hunter said:

You are doing fine. You are entitled to some rest..

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Okay, that should be enough time. Get back to work on our RR.!

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Agree, you took your 1 mulligan, now it's back to work to entertain us nut-jobs!

...but seriously, thanks for taking the time when on vacation!, not only to write-up and fill in the blanks, but also your (or Josies) vivid technicolor stills.

Fred is

I enjoyed meeting an FJR com padre last night and his beautiful spouse. Wisht I had more time, deadlines and all. They sounded blown away by Chief Joseph and Beartooth...and why not?

Travel well my friends...

Fred, While checking to see if there is any new news from our local traveling duos, I started wandering through some older threads and came across one about the free app for using Spotwalla which included an interesting post you made a little over a year ago:

Fred W said:

Yeah, me too. I just got sideways-graded from an old crack-berry bold 9300 to an iPhone 4 (non-S) by my frugal stingy assed company. I would love to have sat or even cell tracking capability while on the bike for gratis. Paying a subscription fee has kept me out of the spot users category.
Not that I'd use it all that much. I'm not (yet) a cross country venturer, though this kind of thing might very well be the kind of assurance to SWMBO that would move me into that category.

I hear there is a whole lotta good **** happening west of Eerie PA.

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Not only have us iPhone users been given SWConnect, you now know what's happening west of Eerie, and I'd say Joann found a much better way to keep tabs on you than sitting at home watching a Spot track!

Big Sky said:

I enjoyed meeting an FJR com padre last night and his beautiful spouse. Wisht I had more time, deadlines and all. They sounded blown away by Chief Joseph and Beartooth...and why not?

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Indeed we were blown away by the ride yesterday, Cole.

And it was also a great pleasure having the opportunity to meet you after so long, and getting to chat with you for at least a while last night. You know, I realized afterward that, even though we are separated by nearly an entire continent, we could be twin sons of different mothers, from some of your philosophy that I've heard.

Day 7

Disclaimer: After riding in Wyoming and Montana these past 3 days, I have come to appreciate the magnitude and splendor of this part of the continent. While we took, and I will present, a bunch pf photographs, it ios impossible to fully capture the feeling that you get when you see these places live and in person.

If you have been here before (as we now have) perhaps these photos can rekindle those feelings that you experienced when you were there. But, and this is the important part, if you have experienced it yourself before there is no way thatthese photos will come close to showing just how grand it all is.

While not as seasoned a traveler as some, I have been around quite a bit. I've crossed the continent before (by car), been to Europe, including skiing in the alps. Lived in California Bay area for a spell. Been to some Carribean Islands, etc. etc. And of course been to nearly every nook and cranny of the eastern seaboard. Our riding experiences over the past three days have been a far more moving, more of a visceral awakening, than anything I have ever seen or done in the past.

YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST COME SEE THIS COUNTRY FOR YOURSELF!!!

And now, with that little melodrama out of the way, on to the details...

Headed out of Cody bright and early. Wanted to get ahead of the masses, especially as we had been warned about there being a lot of Yellowstone traffic on the Beartooth.



Even in the first few miles we were seeing some pretty cool geological features alongside the road







Eventually we made the turn up WY 296, aka the Chief Joseph Highway.









These are some damn big mountains. And there is no shortage of them either. Every which way you turn your head to look there is another magnificent specimen. It is kind of like looking into a dark night sky and viewing the stars. There are just too many to take in and fully comprehend. The idea that someone has named every one of these peaks is astounding.

We stopped at the big turn-out rest area near the height of land and just stood and absorbed the massive view (we were also conveniently, the only ones there at the time)





Of course we are on a motorcycle trip...



... So the twisty turny roads up and down are of no small importance. This is where we were heading next...



Before we left there, we were accosted by a band of little beggars, looking for a free handout. Josie was quite taken by them. They seemed to be pretty well fed to me...



Onward and downward...



Bringing us back down to merely the highest altitude anywhere in our home state! But the big giants still surrounded us on all sides.









Finally we reached the end of the highway. Joe, you gave a very good performance!!

But the Chief Joe ends at an intersection with the Beartooth Highway, All American Road (says so right on the signs)



And the Beartooth did not disappoint either. Even higher, steeper and longer than the Joe. The Beartooth is the ultimate E-ticket ride.



I particularly enjoyed the unique alpine climate ecosystem up at the Top of the World. (the road actually goes a bit higher than that)







Yes, that is snow still standing in August. That's what happens up at 11000 feet.







Just magnificent. That's the only word that I can find for it. You know that line in "America the Beautiful"? "For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain!" I get that now.

Stopped at the Rocky Creek Vista,



...and it was a little busy up there. Most had come from the east and were westbound. That was fine with us.

But the views from the vista are mind blowing. Best not to look down!







The ride back down is more exhilarating even that the ride up, at least it is for me. I always get more of

that funny sick feeling in the pit of my stomach on the descents.





And then finally the Beartooth was done. What a trip!

Back to the rolling hills while riding up Rte 78 to Colombia.



After such an exciting morning, we took a lower altitude, lower key route through some wide open cattle ranching spaces in the afternoon. Just rode up US 89 from Livingston, across US 12 through the Helena Forest, then back down US 287 to I-90 again. Then buzzed the slab into butte for the night.

As I already mentioned, we met up with Big Sky at the 5 Mile Bar and Casino out on the edge of town. We knew that it was one of Cole's regular haunts when the bartender started pouring his brand of beer right as he walked in the door.

Afterwards we went to another Casino, next door to our hotel,to grab a couple of quick sandwiches. But they did have some of this on hand, which made the crummy sandwiches taste a bit better.

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What a day...

Very, Very Good Stuff!

You are my hero. And please thank The Magnificent Josie for the excellent photos.

Great report!

My big regret of my western trip was not getting up to The Highway and Bear Tooth when I was so close. But that just means I HAVE to go back now.

Thanks again.

Day 8 -

The objective for today's ride was to get from Butte up to the West Glacier area in anticipation of a Wednesday run up the Going to the Sun Road. From Big Sky's excellent book about Motorcycling Montana, i had a few ideas for making up a little route that would show off a few other areas of Montana.

We started out bright and early as usual, by buzzing down I 15 just a short way to hook up with MT 43, which runs along side the Big Hole River for a good long while.







This appears to be some prime trout fishing water. We saw plenty of guys out whipping the water with their fly roods, even at the early hour we buzzed by them. The entire area seems to be thriving on the money that the fishermen bring in.

That and cattle...







Those guys (gals?) were not interested in our motorcycle in the least.

And of course, this is Montana, so you are surrounded by hills...



These were nicely forested in comparison to the hills from earlier in the day.

Continuing along



And we slowly started to gain a little elevation...



We entered into an area that seems to have been hard hit by the bark beetles, according to what Cole told us last night.



Imagine hop quick this thing thing will go up in flames some day.



Finally we reached the top of the hill, the Great Divide, at Chief Joseph's Pass.



Immediately after cresting the pass, MT 43 ends where it intersects with US 93. We shot south on 93 just a few hundred feet so we could bag this state:



Couldn't let spud down.

Actually, we will not have time for exploring Idaho on this go around.

My mother always says when you visit someone and leave something behind it just means that you'll be coming back sooner. Guess we'll be back!

Made the u turn and headed north on US 93 up through the Bitterroot Valley





Stopped here for gas and a cup a joe. This place was pretty cool. Wish we'd known about it. I would have liked to stay there in one of their little cabins. They are cheap, I asked, but didn't ask how much they want for the whole place.



Yeah, that's me chillin out and acting all savoir faire, sipping my american caffe au lait





As we rolled north through the valley, things were looking a bit ugly back over our shoulder in Idaho





Luckily we out paced it (more like we flanked it) and stayed dry all day. Ran through a couple of neat little towns...



And then eventually into one big one: Missoula



I sort of wanted to go through Missoula as I had a good friend and co-worker who hailed from there that passed away a few years back. Strangest thing ever he was a healthy guy, watched what he ate, worked out. Just dropped dead in the middle of a run one day. One of those things that makes you want to go out and grab life by the balls while you can.

Anyway, he had told all sorts of great stories about his life in Missoula. He had gone to the University there, and then stayed afterwards and done some bar tending. I kind of wanted to see what the town was like. Not bad for a city, and I pretty much hate all cities.

After making our way thru the traffic in town and jumping on I90 east for a few exits, we headed east on MT 200 and then north on MT 83. At the junction of 100 and 83 is this funky little gas station / store. we stopped and got a soft serve cone.



83 is a real nice ride up past a bunch of little lakes and through the Lolo Forest



We even had a Bullwinkle jump up out of the road side creek as we approached. How cool was that? Cool as a Moose, that's how cool.



As we rode along we became increasingly aware of some haziness, and eventually the faint smell of smoke. Forest fires are burning top the west. Kind of screwed up our distant mountain viewing...



Still, all in all it was a great ride, and we got in to our pre-arranged hotel in Kalispell, the Guest House Inn and Suites, at a bit after 2PM.

No problem with the early arrival. The desk clerk seems to be a motorcycle lover. He insisted that motorcyclists park their bikes under their big overhang in front of the office so someone at the desk can keep an eye on them all night.

Also, when we checked in he quietly upgraded us into a King Suite at no extra charge, and without saying a thing about it. I had only reserved (and paid for) a regular King Room.

Sweet suite!!







Being so early, we had plenty of time to go down and do a load of laundry. That should hold us all the way through until we get home.

[ObFudPr0n]

Then we walked across the road to a great little Mexican restaurant. Josie had a Quesadilla (loaded with jalapenos) and I went with a Enchillada and Chile Rellenos combo. Both the meals and the complimentary chips and salsa were quite good, IMO.





Muy Bueno!!

[/ObFudPr0n]

Tomorrow, we take aim on the sun...

Great stuff Fred!! Great pics Josie!! Enjoy Glacier Nat'l. I love this stuff!

You two really know how to enjoy a trip. Great stuff. Thanks again for sharing.

Fantastic stuff Fred, really enjoying your report(s).

Let's not give Fred too much credit. He normally is not this good. I think it is The Magnificent Josie who is telling him what to say. He sure isn't the one taking the pictures.

I think he is now obligated to take The Magnificent Josie on all his rides. And she is obligated to go for the good of our forum.

Fred: Looks like a great ride so far! Cool seeing the moose. They don't seem to be as common as they once were, nice sighting. Pictures cannot and never do justice to the beartooth ride. It is EPIC. It never ceases to amaze me. One of the world's best roads to ride, no doubt. Keep on having fun!