Fred W and TMJ's Vacation Ride to the Great Divide

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. . . "No Panties Wednesday" . . . Could be Wyoming's biggest annual traffic jam.
Why, I wonder?
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No panties Wednesday, huh? Well, I am definitely glad we were here on Saturday, then.

That does explain what all the stuff was that they were taking down and packing away last night.

 
HE'S IN CANADA!!! FROSTBACKS, GUARD YOUR BEER AND STOGIES!!!
Crap, they made it through without being detected (by me)...... haven't logged on here in a few days..... otherwise they might have had an escort. Yep, about the Port Urine bridge.... never go at 10 a.m........ Nexus is a Trusted Traveller program, where you get a Nexus card to take the fast track... it's linked to your passport, etc. There are dedicated lanes at several bridges to whiz you through, e.g., the Whirlpool bridge in Niagara is dedicated to Nexus only and it usually takes all of 30 seconds to be through the checkpoint........

The windmills don't turn if the demand doesn't require it.... we gots lotsa nuclear, and this summer has been cooler with hardly anybody using air conditioners.......

Safe travels, Fred and Josie!

 
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I see you're in Cody. There's a nice Yamaha dealership just down the road that would be a great place to get a new front tire. I know because I got two there in 2006 when I showed up on their doorstep with cords showing on my Dunlops. They were pushing Michelin's new sport touring tires called Pilot Roads. Maybe you've heard of them...

 
Day 6 - Best ride day evah!! (so far)

Had a great nights sleep at the Best Western. Up at our usual early hour and hit the FCB at the 6AM opening bell. Went with another waffle-matic, but split it with Josie today. Oh how I long for some real maple syrup...

Hit the road soon after and the sky was overcast with some low clouds, but not particularly threatening. We had to roll by the devil's Tower again on the way out, and here's what she looked like at 7AM

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Guess we made a good choice to go late in the day yesterday!

Once again, we followed either US 14 or 14A pretty much all day. There were a couple of very short stretches where 14 runs on I-90, but other than that it was 2 lane back roading for us.

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As we headed north on Rte 14 / 16 from Gillette (the most a man can get?) we came on some of those electronic road construction signs warning of road construction ahead. It even went so far as to say Motorcycles should consider other options. I took that as a challenge to my motorcycle manhood.

The first section of construction was already paved over. Still had a little work left to be done, and being a Sunday nobody was there doing any of it. But then another stretch down the road were more construction warning signs and then we came to what the signs were talking about

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About eight miles of torn up, half laid road bed.

Sheet... that weren't nothin! I did have to slow down in a few sections where the dirt was more sand than gravel. But we cleared that pretty easily and then something magical happened...

Nothing.

Nothing looking forwards...

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Nothing looking backwards...

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I was so overwhelmed in the moment that I had to pullover to the side of the road and have Josie shoot those last two pictures.

That's when it clicked.

How cool is this? There is this boldly beautiful land and scenery as far as the eye can see, land that the deer and the antelope are playing on, and other than the road that we are traveling, not much in the way of humans or their conveyances anywhere in sight. Something lifted in my heart, a lump formed in my throat, (or maybe I just had a small TIA), but right then and there I recognized that this is the exact experience that I have been needing for so long.

I can now relate to why people left the civilized world behind, jumped in their Conestoga wagons and came out into this vast openness. Maybe that was true of the settlers that landed in Wisconsin at one time in the past, and things just got ruined by over population later on.

Funny thing was that the bike didn't want top go fast anymore. Running at the speed limit (as reasonable as it is here in WY
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) it felt good, and right.

Josie and I didn't talk much. We didn't listen to music at all today. We just absorbed it all in.

OK, enough of that stuff... now back to the pitchers!

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One man's junk is another man's treasure. This guy is rich!

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So after getting all attitude adjusted we rolled into Sheridan for a needed refueling (got some great mileage what with the altitude and relaxed right hand)

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And saw our first one of these at the busy gas station

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We later saw a bunch more. Apparently those side by side Quads on Steroids are quite popular out here in the wide open west.

Continuing on US 14 brings us to this unheralded gem

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Holy cow. How come people aren't talking about the splendor of the bighorn mountains? This was some of the best mountain riding I've ever done before. I'm hoping that just means thatwhat we have instore for us later in the vacation, up in the Rockies proper, is even better.

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Hit our first rise and i thought, Jeeze Loise, this is a couple thousand higher that Mount Washington, the highest mountain in the entire northeast! Now I realize that we started at ~4000 feet before we began the climb, but still!!!

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And we were still climbing steadily upwards!!

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Oh my... the views! They are breathtaking.

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Spied this little dealio up ahead

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And a sign that said "Point of Interest - Medicine Wheel". And the road was a single lane of gravel. i had no friggen idea what a medicine wheel was, but of course we went up that road!

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Got up to the ranger station and saw the plaque and the signs to learn what the medicine wheel was.

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The hike to the top of the mountain to see the sacred Medicine Wheel is a mile and a half up, and then back. If we had different clothes we'd have done it, but tromping up the trail in motorcycle riding gear held no appeal. Perhaps we will come back some day better prepared. At least we now know what it is, that it is there.

And then, what goes up, must come down...

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We had not descended far when we realized that it was warming up. Quickly and a lot. And the surroundings are looking a lot different too.

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The heat was really building quickly on this plateau between the mountains. Windshield in the full down, jacket unzipped as much as possible while still being fastened. After the cool freshness of the high ground, this was uncomfortable.

But still... beautiful.

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We rolled into our intended destination for today, Cody, none too early. It was only 2:30 PM (mountain time) but it was so hot riding down the strip in town that we opted to forgo visiting the Buffalo Bill Heritage Center and just go right to the hotel...

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Our chosen digs for the night

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Doing some room research in the Cody area last night I came to realize that, due to its proximity to Yellowstone, this one damn popular vacation spot. And the hoteliers around here are proud of their rooms. I found this place for $150 (which is on the low end for Cody) but it has some very good reviews.

It is sort of a "Theme Hotel", catering to those fam damilies, no doubt, with a whole bunch of excellent looking African Taxidermy all over the hotel lobby. I like it!

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Walked next door to score a fifth of hooch to refill my portable traveling bar. Found they have a unique attitude about liquor here...

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Perfect! I think they should have these everywhere. I mean who wants to get out of your pickup truck just to grab another sixer for the road?

Well, that's where we sit right now. There's a BBQ joint next door that is going to get our business in just a short while. So pictures for the pR0n addicts should be forthcoming...

Edit - @ Gina re: getting any new tires - Not on Sunday, I'm sure.

But luckily the drive thru liquor store next door was open!

Besides, the tire isn't getting any worse. It's handling fine when we are over 45 mph (which is most of the time) and is fine at FJR nominal speeds on the slab. It's OK with two hands on the bars at slow speeds. Just a strange anomaly. Nothing to get upset about. ;)

Also, the plug is holding perfectly in the back (knock on wood) so I'm going to just stick it out with what I gots.

Thanks for thinking of us!

 
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Ah, Fred. I don't know if it was really "The Best Riding Day Evah" but it was certainly the best part of this most excellent Ride Report so far.

It pleases me to know that the wide open spaces of The West had the same effect on you that Pop and I experienced. You mention the folks in the Conestoga Wagons. Keep in mind that some of those folks went stone crazy in the vastness of The West. The land stretching out in a vastness that nothing Back East could compare to and the Never Ceasing Damned Wind caused many to turn back.

To summarize: It takes a Big Man to take big steps across that land. You, Fred are The Big Man.

Please carry on. I am so happy with you right now, keep up the good work.

 
It is pretty amazing this country of ours Fred. Our first trip to the West, I couldn't get over the vastness of it all. I think I may have to get that picture of Devil's Tower from you Fred and put it on our wall.
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Now you're getting into the heart of the can't take enough pictures country. Great report Fred. It is very nice to see every night your days ride.

Thanks for taking us along Fred!!

 
That's when it clicked.
How cool is this? There is this boldly beautiful land and scenery as far as the eye can see, land that the deer and the antelope are playing on, and other than the road that we are traveling, not much in the way of humans or their conveyances anywhere in sight. Something lifted in my heart, a lump formed in my throat, (or maybe I just had a small TIA), but right then and there I recognized that this is the exact experience that I have been needing for so long.

I can now relate to why people left the civilized world behind, jumped in their Conestoga wagons and came out into this vast openness. Maybe that was true of the settlers that landed in Wisconsin at one time in the past, and things just got ruined by over population later on.

Funny thing was that the bike didn't want top go fast anymore. Running at the speed limit (as reasonable as it is here in WY
thumbsup.gif
) it felt good, and right.

Josie and I didn't talk much. We didn't listen to music at all today. We just absorbed it all in.
So well put, Fred. We'll be in Cody on our trip to Montana in a couple weeks so you are really building the anticipation for us.

 
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Thanks for the encouragement, folks.

And as for your trip, Goodman, unless you have someplace already in mind, I think i could endorse the place we are staying (Kings Inn). It is clean and reasonably priced for this town. Maybe the prices will have eased off by the time you get here. we are still in full framily vaction time period right now.

And now, for the follow up a few have been waiting for... We went right next door to Bubbas BarBQue for our din-din. We went over pretty early, maybe 6:15, which in retrospect was a good thing as there was a wait outside for a table happening about two parties after us.

Ordered myself a local brew, Moose Drool Brown Ale from big Sky Brewing in Missoula, MT.

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All around a nice beer, no off flavors or serious faults. But it was lacking in balance as there was not quite enough hop bitterness for the sweet maltiness of the brew. Basically, it would score quite well as a homebrew, but was a little single dimensional. Brown Ales can be that way. Still quite drinkable.

Now to the real goods: The 'Que

I ordered up the Spare Ribs dinner and Josie ordered herself the Beef Brisket.

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Note: Josie spoke to the waitress, asked about portion size, and said that she isn't a huge eater. Waitress said, no problem, you can order the kids / senior portion, which is both smaller and cheaper. You can't see it in the above photo, but there were four of those giant slices of brisket in this "junior" portion!

She was only able to eat 2 of the four slices, and the brisket was very good, so I "helped" her with the other two. I wish that I had only ordered the senior's portion of ribs, as I ended up sending two big beef ribs back to avoid gustatory explosion. As i said, the brisket was quite good. Lean and tender, a tough combination to beat. The ribs were also good with great smoke flavor, though a little bit on the fatty side.

The downfall of the place is in their sauce (they only have one) which is not zippy enough for my tastes. it ran towards the mild and sweet side. It would be good if they had some more sauce options. Still, I would definitely go again if I were in the neighborhood.

 
Nice report Fred. As you already suspect, the Rocky's are even better. And, regarding your pass at the mile and a half hike, you will find many things that you have to pass on and will always have a reason to come back. Please keep the insights and pictures coming.

 
Awesome RR...looking forward to more. We hope to do some trips like this starting in a couple of years and this thread will be an invaluable resource when the time comes.

 
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ha! That's the same hotel we stayed at in Cody during the around the continent tour in 2010! We even ate at the BBQ place next door. I'm getting to relive the trip!

If it was anything like ours, tomorrow will be epic with the Chief Joseph and Beartooth Pass.

 
Welcome to the west Fred...this is what it's all about!

Enjoying the ride, thanks for sharing it with us.

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--G

 
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The spots you're hitting now aren't exactly in my back yard, but I have an FJR, so they sort of are. So I have a little proprietary pride about the roads and sights you're discovering--those endless vistas, empty roads, and the incredible variety of gorgeous riding. It all just refreshes my appreciation for what we have over here on this side of the map. Just reading about your reactions to these things is making me get the itch to get back out there again.

Luckily, that's coming up in about two more weeks!
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I'm guessing you're both pretty pleased by now about your wife's late decision to come along on this trip. And you WILL be hitting the Beartooth, right? Enjoy.

 
And they are OFF for what should be a grand day. First through the tunnel, out by the dam and onto stunning roads and sights.

Edit: Fred expectedly did the unexpected and backtracked to go north and not west so no tunnel or dam(n).

 
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Fred, you are riding some, but not all, of my most favorite roads.

Bubbas fed Festar and I when we were in Cody late in June.

Enjoy your time in the west. All too soon you will be back in the canyons of trees in the East.

The vast expanse of the prairie is what keeps me here. After fifteen years at sea in the Navy I think I simply have to be able to see to and beyond the horizon or I begin to feel claustrophobic.

We were in Hulett about 0900 yesterday and didn't see your bike at the motel. Figured you to be "long gone"!

Enjoy!

 
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