That may be the peak startup current rating. The average current is probably considerably less.
If this is a close guess, it would be the highest power consumer and begs the question...
Well, as a data point, my S4 (aka Black Widow) spider failed during the Jan 3 cold snap in Flori-duh, the temp was in the low 60s. I was running the heated jacket, but that's separately wired from the Batt. The failure happened during riding, so the fans were NOT on at the time.
Hmmm, ya, well... Sorry to hear that the Black Widow bit ya. Sorry about the cold snap too, I'm pleased that it has gotten up to 13°F and the wind has dropped to 20 mph today
:lol: 
These are both very good points. If the fans grnd threw the Black Widow spider (and I don't doudt the findings RZ350 must have spent hours doing) then this may be a big part of the problem.
Well I haven't gone through all 200+ comments but I guess I should check this out some time. My fans don't come on that often either. I do ocasionaly smell rubber burning and haven't quite figured that one out yet. I am thinken my YES plan is gonna kick in someday. As soon as I get some free time I will look under the hood and get into this project.Hmmm, ya, well... Sorry to hear that the Black Widow bit ya. Sorry about the cold snap too, I'm pleased that it has gotten up to 13°F and the wind has dropped to 20 mph today
The spiders die from a long war of attrition, I'm sure your FLA summers have had your fans on a lot. I was very serious when I earlier suggested using a hex brass rod as a terminal to attach the spider wires to. In industry I've used copper blocks as grounding strips because of the heat transfer capabilities as well as the electrical conductivity. The brass won't do quite as well, but it will still do a pretty good job of conducting both heat and current. This is really what we are trying to do, keep the connections flowing 100% of the current which will in turn avoid heat in the first place. The brass will then work as a heat sink and readily dissipate heat and not create hot spots.
When I look at the diagram I have access to (for a USA '06 AE), it shows a ground connector where you indicate "a critical connection", far left of my picture (it may be on your diagram but cut off):...
...
Each field that uses electricity and electronics can show wiring schematic symbols a bit differently. This is my take on how Yamaha's schematic symbols work:
This is one type of grounding block. I've written to Dave suggesting a smaller, more simple grounding block. This would be the ultimate way to deal with the grounds.
Damn I picked a wrong day to make a typo, I mean to say 40s F. Btw, I'll take 20s F on real roads over 90s in Flori-duh any day! As long the roads aren't all iced up I'm Lovin' it. Here is my New Years 2009 trip to GA, TN...23F was the highest temp...
Maybe good , maybe not so good. Check it out and let me know.
I was incomplete in the text that accompanied the schematic screen shots. I should have been clear that the ground buss/common grounds ARE indeed the spider wires.
Not always a good idea. Certain dissimilar metals corrode very quickly due to galvanic corrosion. You do not want this.
I had a chance to ponder on this grounding issue over the weekend. I subscribe to what I will call the [SIZE=12pt]"5-into-1"[/SIZE] overload theory that some of the others do. I believe only one of the six pins is causing the overheating problem, otherwise you might be seeing issues at the other end of the harness where it connects to the actual component. Where I work, we design our vehicle harnesses using this same grounding method (ground connectors scattered throughout the harness) but with a different type of connector. It is critical that the one pin leading back to ground be sized to carry the total current (plus some safety factor). We’ve even found that “chassis” grounds scattered around prove to be unreliable at times as well, but that’s another story. My guess is Yamaha is overloading some of these. (Wasn’t the ignition switch recall related to an overload issue too?) My harness study should give us some insight here.
I’m going to offer an alternate solution to you DIY’ers for giving the ground connector a second path to help lighten the load on that one undersized spade terminal in the ground connector. It simply requires some wire and ring terminals. It doesn’t require any modification to harness itself, but only to some of the components inserted in it. You can also do the soldering away from the bike if you choose. Hopefully you can see and understand my sketch.
I’m hoping Yamaha steps up to the plate and solves this one for us. I’m reluctant to go to drastic measures as some have done to ultimately solve this problem. I fear Yamaha will say I took matters into my own hands and damaged my harness beyond an acceptable limit for OEM repair and the claim will not be covered. If I had to venture a guess, I would say Yamaha’s fix will avoid modifying or replacing the existing harness (too costly) and head towards a “snap-in” solution such as Brodie’s. I know that’s what I would be forced to do at work if this problem arose.
Okay - go ahead and pick it apart…
