oil plug may be stripped

dfpextraordinaire · May 25, 2006

Okay, here's the deal. I got my new blue baby three weeks ago, Friday and made sure that I put my 600 miles on it promptly. I got the oil, filter and such and decided to do the oil myself. I didn't have a torque wrench so I went to see my neighbor who had a two foot long torque wrench his kids use to twist on their hot rod jap cars. Anyway, i made what I thought was the appropriate adjustment to make sure that i torqued it correctly. When I tightened it up it felt like it may have gone to far, hopefully it is not stripped completely. If it is what do I do next? Help, I'm just a freakin' painter and don't know diddly about this kinda stuff.

Take it easy on me now, K? :wacko: :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

odot · May 25, 2006

Hm....ever heard of heli-coils? You may be headed in that direction. And when the board comes down on you with the hard hammer of reality....just grin and bear it....it's coming.

nusman68 · May 25, 2006

+1 w/odot. If it is stripped, try using a Heli-coil, obtained at most auto parts stores. Suffice to say you'll get numerous opinions on this, but I do not use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug. (Most torque wrenches I've seen of the length you describe have settings that don't even start until ~ 20 Ft. lbs.; in addition, most recommended torque settings assume the fasteners are dry, with no lubricants: oily threads, use of anti-seize compound, etc. requires you to drop the recommended torque setting. For me, I just use a new crush washer every time, and tighten it until I feel the washer 'give' then snug it up after that.

Geezer · May 25, 2006

First, make sure that it is actually stripped by taking it back out and inspecting the threads in the hole. SCrew the plug in and out a few times and you should be able to feel if the threads are bad.

There has been a lot of discussion about how the reccomended torque for oil drains is way too high. Next time try using half the reccomended torque. You can learn to judge by feel once you do it a few times.

If the threads are indeed stripped there are several options for repairing it. I have never used these, but they look to be better than a heli coil: Time Sert

Of course you probably want to get your new bike on the road as quickly as possible, so you'll probably be fine using whatever product is available in your area. Take the drain plug to your nearest auto shop and tell the clerk what you are looking for. While you're there, get a copper washer to fit that drain plug, the type of washer used on brake fittings. Get three of them and use them on the oil drain plug and both the fill and drain plugs for the rear end. They replace the Yamaha gasket and are reuseable for the life of your bike.

FJRPierre · May 25, 2006

nusman68 said:
... For me, I just use a new crush washer every time, and tighten it until I feel the washer 'give' then snug it up after that.

Maybe that "little give" was what caused him to think that he stripped it? +1 on doublechecking the threads.

Mike-H · May 25, 2006

+1 on time sert,...excellent product...sorry for you luck....time & experience (like now) will correct that though....we never forget life's hard learned lessons...

radman · May 25, 2006

Mike-H said:
+1 on time sert,...excellent product...sorry for you luck....time & experience (like now) will correct that though....we never forget life's hard learned lessons...

Then explain WWII. 1000 words or less plz.

Scab · May 25, 2006

Experience: It's what you get right AFTER you needed it.

Calabash · May 25, 2006

I stripped my oil pan by tightening up the oil plug too tight. :angry2:

The threads were wrapped around the bolt like wires wrapped around it.

I eventually was talked into getting a new oil pan for the bike. Took about 3 days to do it and cost around 400 bucks.

Will be more careful next time I change the oil... :blink:

Alan · May 25, 2006

My engine oil plug bolt has never given me a problem as far as leaking and i always use a new Yamaha crush washer when changing the engine oil, I snug it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn after washer contact. My rear wheel drive axle lube drain plug however has to be tightened far beyond the recommended torque or else it spews lube out on the rear wheel. Be Careful not to over tighten that bolt though!!

FJRTech.com is a Great resource for any Maintenance procedures.

Alan

dfpextraordinaire · May 25, 2006

I appreciate all of your thought and appreciate the fact that you didn't kick me when I had already beat myself up already. Thank you for your sage wisdom, this forum is awesome.

Next time, I'll ask first....

dfp

FlyingLow · May 25, 2006

Alan said:
My rear wheel drive axle lube drain plug however has to be tightened far beyond the recommended torque or else it spews lube out on the rear wheel. Be Careful not to over tighten that bolt though!!
FJRTech.com is a Great resource for any Maintenance procedures.

Alan

Dude, I cringed when I read this! Far beyond? Something's not right. This bears a closer look. If nothing else put some Perma-tex on both sides of the washer.

Geezer · May 26, 2006

dfpextraordinaire said:
I appreciate all of your thought and appreciate the fact that you didn't kick me when I had already beat myself up already. Thank you for your sage wisdom, this forum is awesome.
Next time, I'll ask first....

dfp

Well, don't leave us hangin'. Was it indeed stripped? What did you decide to do to fix it? If you need someone to show you how to do some of the basic maintenence the first time you may find someone who lives within riding distance if you ask. Riding distance for the average FJR rider could be quite a distance

.

scubatech · May 26, 2006

I always use the smaller tools such as 1/4 drive for working on motorcycles.

odot · May 26, 2006

Alright....he's leaving us hanging....the beatings can now begin.

dfpextraordinaire · May 27, 2006

odot said:
Alright....he's leaving us hanging....the beatings can now begin.

beatings? oh boy! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

I have been out of town for the last few days and have not had an opportunity to check out if the bolt is indeed stripped. I did take it for a quick ride in between rainstorms today, about 10 miles and when I got back no oil is leaking so it is my assumption that if it is stripped, it is not that bad. Anyway, if I get a chance to check it out this week-end I will let you all know what's up!

Thanks again fellow feejers!!!

dft

odot · May 27, 2006

I'd leave it alone till the next oil change if I was you. no leaky, go streaky...

Ronman · May 27, 2006

[

Then explain WWII. 1000 words or less plz.

Read 'Paris, 1919' That will explain it very well. It's their words though, so I'm well below the 1k word count.

To the original question: I've used the torque wrench for the drain plugs, and keeping in mind the dry threads argument, I adjust to about 60~70% of spec'd value and have been just fine. No leakies and, knock on wood, no stripped threads.

I've also done what others say and just go by feel. Actually works very well and I find the 'feel' method typically isn't as tight as the 60~70% torque setting. Must be a lack of faith in my 'feel' methodology.

Mike-H · May 27, 2006

Thanks Ronman, I owe you one for the reply to Rad

....BTW nice return

...Rad ...did you get that :blink:

oil plug may be stripped

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