Fork Seal replacement - problem with metal slides on fork tube

jimstubanas · Friday at 9:02 PM

I've pulled the forks off my 2013 FJR, and am now assembling with new seals. The first two metal slides (the round bushings on the fork tube) go into the fork housing with no problem, and seat in their respective spot, but the 3rd metal slide will not go into the shock housing (see attached fork diagram - item # 5). It's almost like it is too big to slide into place. Does this slide need to be pressed into place?

Dan Cooper · Friday at 9:35 PM

jimstubanas said:
I've pulled the forks off my 2013 FJR, and am now assembling with new seals. The first two metal slides (the round bushings on the fork tube) go into the fork housing with no problem, and seat in their respective spot, but the 3rd metal slide will not go into the shock housing (see attached fork diagram - item # 5). It's almost like it is too big to slide into place. Does this slide need to be pressed into place?

Jim,
You're probably going to have to give us a little more information.

How did you go about pressing the middle metal slide into place in the outer fork tube?? It does need to be pressed in place halfway down the outer fork tube, it doesn't just drop into place loosely.
OR some prefer to leave out the middle slide!!

The lower slide (23) goes on the end of the inner fork tube (22) and the inner fork tube goes into the outer fork tube (24) before the middle slide (26) goes into the outer fork tube and is pressed into place.
Then the upper slide (pressed into place), washer, seal (pressed into place), retaining ring, and dust boot (25, 29, 28, 30, 27).
Bolt (32) screws into the damper cartridge (31) to retain the assembly.

Otherwise, just use the same tool that was used on the middle slide to drive the upper slide into place.
It must be driven below the "ledge" level to make room for the washer and seal and retaining spring ring.

dan

jimstubanas · Saturday at 11:52 AM

Dan Cooper said:
Jim,
You're probably going to have to give us a little more information.

How did you go about pressing the middle metal slide into place in the outer fork tube?? It does need to be pressed in place halfway down the outer fork tube, it doesn't just drop into place loosely.
OR some prefer to leave out the middle slide!!

The lower slide (23) goes on the end of the inner fork tube (22) and the inner fork tube goes into the outer fork tube (24) before the middle slide (26) goes into the outer fork tube and is pressed into place.
Then the upper slide (pressed into place), washer, seal (pressed into place), retaining ring, and dust boot (25, 29, 28, 30, 27).
Bolt (32) screws into the damper cartridge (31) to retain the assembly.

Otherwise, just use the same tool that was used on the middle slide to drive the upper slide into place.
It must be driven below the "ledge" level to make room for the washer and seal and retaining spring ring.

dan

Dan,
Thanks for the quick reply. The video I had watched for this procedure did not speak of using any tool to press the upper slide into place. Regarding pressing it into place, can I use a manual tool (like the attached photo) to drive it into place, or would a press like machine shops use be required?

Also, the middle slide went into place without effort. I was wondering, why your suggestion to possibly leave the middle slide out?

TheCrazyBird · Sunday at 9:29 AM

jimstubanas said:
Dan,
Thanks for the quick reply. The video I had watched for this procedure did not speak of using any tool to press the upper slide into place. Regarding pressing it into place, can I use a manual tool (like the attached photo) to drive it into place, or would a press like machine shops use be required?

Also, the middle slide went into place without effort. I was wondering, why your suggestion to possibly leave the middle slide out?

I’m doing the same work now. Mine is at 42k and I suspect it’s been a while since the fork oil was changed. I used the “while I’m in there” excuse to go to tapered rolling bearings while I’m at it. I’m getting a 1 1/4” PVC pipe to drive bearing on, and I believe it’s a 2-3” PVC coupler that can be used rather than a more expensive fork seal driver and can be had same day at the local hardware store. I’ll update when I get them and let you know.

Here’s these references as well:

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ForkSeal-BushingReplacement.pdf

jimstubanas · Tuesday at 2:41 PM

This was a great help. I couldn't find the exhaust tip other than Ebay (too long a wait), but did find a comparable tart that did not need cutting at Advance Auto Parts (see pic). They're only 4 inches long, so I used two piece together. The part is SureBilt 17524, SKU 5294894134. Each piece is $5.00.

TheCrazyBird · Tuesday at 6:55 PM

jimstubanas said:
This was a great help. I couldn't find the exhaust tip other than Ebay (too long a wait), but did find a comparable tart that did not need cutting at Advance Auto Parts (see pic). They're only 4 inches long, so I used two piece together. The part is SureBilt 17524, SKU 5294894134. Each piece is $5.00.

I got just about the same piece to do the top bushing. I didn’t end up using the 2-3” PVC coupler, it was too big, not sure what size actually would fit. I got the fork guard off and ended up using that to drive the seal in, pretty nice of Yamaha to include a fork seal driver with every bike…Now to get the lower race in the steering head and I can finally put the bike back together.