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Agree! Certainly can't hurt.

Was the brake light switch recall not done on your bike? That was an early suggestion in the original thread. Glad it is sorted out and I was sure it was a simple problem. (Sometimes the most frustrating sort.)

Just saw this... https://www.amazon.ca/Yctze-Motorcycle-Aluminium-Clutch-Cylinder/dp/B093FS95NM/ref=asc_df_B093FS95NM?tag=bingshopdesk-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333159863596&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932728068810&psc=1 No idea whether it would work...

A few instances of timing issues have been reported after replacing the CCT. Since you have ruled out possible flooding (common if the engine has been started and not allowed to warm up fully), timing becomes a significant possibility. AS always, suspect whatever was screwed with last. Good luck!

Note that the headlights don't come on with key, only after engine start. Your starting issue is most likely due to flooding. Fresh battery and wide open throttle. 20 seconds or so and give it a rest to cool a couple of minutes before going again. A strong battery is critical for getting it...

I agree, for the most part... I have never had to replace the valve cover gasket - reused one as many as five times without any leaks. Clean, degrease the valve cover gasket channel and gasket, a SMALL amount of sensor-safe RTV in the channel and stick the gasket to the cover. Let it cure and...

Local stuff comes up first if you are logged in to Google...

I would, although I wouldn't panic about getting it done right on the mark. Most do not require adjustment at the first designated mileage. Many (most) don't at the second interval or longer. Nice to know where you stand and a check isn't that difficult to DIY. A little more complicated if...

There was never a recall on the cam chain tensioner. Yamaha quietly changed the design without any recall. I don't know if there were any bulletins sent out to dealers or service departments. There is no recommended mileage interval recommended for changing but I don't recall hearing about...

Looking good. Has he fired it up yet?

If I am not mistaken, the horn is on the hot side and the horn switch completes circuit to ground? Horn(s) are mounted by the upper part of the radiator and to one side or the other (or both). Gen I and II have two horns but at some point, Yamaha went to a single horn on one side Gen III+). I...

Check system voltage. Start bike and rev to 3,000 rpm or so. If the charging system is bad, there will be little difference with engine running. (Should get 14V or so running.) You then need to narrow it down between the stator and the regulator/rectifier. (Or a bad connection somewhere...

Yamaha certainly has V4 experience. Manufacturing and development costs might make this a less desirable option - might depend if they can re-work the old Venture or Vmax engine. (Still an expensive engine to build and service.) They have lots of recent experience with triples in motorcycle...

Depends on the engine, I guess. Whatever they choose, I don't think it will be an in-line four. Obviously all idle speculation - I'm not holding my breath that Yamaha will come up with anything new in this genre anytime in the near future. They are currently listing the Tracer 9 GT+ on their...

There are left hand braking solutions out there for (mostly) dirt bikes, but I haven't heard of anything that would work on an FJR.

The FJR has a bleak future based upon international emissions regulations. I think it is only available in North America, and for how long? Possibly other markets, but certainly not what is needed to sustain it long term. The Super Ténéré is pretty much in the same boat with respect to...

Gen I uses the GIVI SR346 rack. (SR357 is for all Gen II +)

I would like to think it will be back as a revamped Gen V, but I think you will see at best a different color.

Sorry, I missed that. I wasn't aware of the approx 2:1 ratio, although I expect it isn't absolutely linear. As mentioned, shock settings can make a significant difference too.

Get it load tested. Might be a bad one. If it was just dropping to a low voltage (i.e. 9V or so), I might suggest looking at the starter solenoid and starter motor. Zero volts suggests essentially open although it might show 12+V as long as there is no draw. Of course, you need to make sure...