I gotcha. So, really it's not the fluid flushing as much as the vigorous exercising of the solenoids with relatively fresh fluid that you're after here. That I can get behind. Along with some vigorous ker-thumpin with a rubber or rawhide mallet on the ABS body.
I'm beginning to think that is the most likely explanation. As Ionbeam said, there could be some electronic issue that affects only the rear brake, but that seems unlikely, especially since frozen spool valves seem to be a common fault and my bike has been living outdoors in Corrosionville (SoFla) for a few years.Not sure...just hoping/wondering-if a speck/chunk of splooge holding a spool valve open/shut might get dislodged.
The (supposed) reality might be that moisture that's formed/collected in the system over its life may have corroded the rear-control spool valve into immobility. If that's the case, then the ABS moduled might be fuxored.
But we are ALL counting on YOU to figure it out, and come up with a way to take that damn thing apart and FIX IT!!!
Perzackly what I was thinking. Excercise the HELL out of the ABS system, to the point of a dead battery. Whaddya got to lose? Right?I gotcha. So, really it's not the fluid flushing as much as the vigorous exercising of the solenoids with relatively fresh fluid that you're after here. That I can get behind. Along with some vigorous ker-thumpin with a rubber or rawhide mallet on the ABS body.
Hell man, I've been known to un-seize old two smoke engines with a judicious application of Coca-cola through the spark plug hole and an overnight soak.
But, sometimes, you still have to whack em with the business end of a baseball bat.
Umm... No. Frozen spool valves are not a common fault.
Pretty sure it won't work on the Gen 1, diff part number from '06 on.Perzackly what I was thinking. Excercise the HELL out of the ABS system, to the point of a dead battery. Whaddya got to lose? Right?I gotcha. So, really it's not the fluid flushing as much as the vigorous exercising of the solenoids with relatively fresh fluid that you're after here. That I can get behind. Along with some vigorous ker-thumpin with a rubber or rawhide mallet on the ABS body.
Hell man, I've been known to un-seize old two smoke engines with a judicious application of Coca-cola through the spark plug hole and an overnight soak.
But, sometimes, you still have to whack em with the business end of a baseball bat.
I just went eBay surfing and found THIS.
I am SO tempted to buy it, just to take the fecker apart to see what can be done for other folks suffering similar issues.
Don't care if it would fit mine...just want to take one apart to see its guts.
I'd like to know how many bikes actually have the problem. I think I found about six people with gen 1 bikes who posted on the forum that they had this issue (ABS fail, no malfunction indicated). There may be more, no search on ABS.Don't care if it would fit mine...just want to take one apart to see its guts.
I'm gonna keep my eye on that eBay listing and decide if I can afford $40 to benefit the forum. I'm poor.
What happens in test 2 is that pulsations are felt like a ratchety clicking, but there is no upward force on the pedal. In contrast, the front lever returns from squeezed-in to the resting position with good force. The inlet and outlet connections have never been taken off, so unlikely that they are reversed. Besides, the ABS worked until recently.
So, have the comments I've seen about frozen spool valves just been hypothetical or have people actually had it happen? Although mine seems to do what it is supposed to do in general, the ECU (ABS) is also a possibility since it has separate circuits for the front and rear. I can rule out the failsafe relay in my case.
I do have the manual and the diagrams are helpful for a general understanding of how the system works. The troubleshooting section, however, doesn't address how to detect a frozen spool valve and isn't very thorough about what to do when encountering failures without light or code indicators. In any case, I wonder if, for example, the current draw by the solenoid might be different if the spool is stuck? Since only the rear appears to be affected in a few cases, we could compare the current draw by the front vs. the rear solenoids. I'd need Ionbeam to hold my hand here. The solenoid coils themselves show in-spec resistances.If you have a workshop manual, have a look in section 1 (General Information). It gives a very good description of how the system works, especially the solenoid valves. Mine is a 2009 so not sure it would be applicable to yours. I could could post some pages from mine but would probably have to be shot by Yamaha for breach of copyright
Don
If I were hitting it, I would be using the smallest hammer I had, with the intention of getting it "ringing" rather than just beating it into submission (In other words shake the shit out of it, don't beat the shit out of it). This needs to be done at the same time as the ABS is being functioned, so it's definitely a two person job.I do have the manual and the diagrams are helpful for a general understanding of how the system works. The troubleshooting section, however, doesn't address how to detect a frozen spool valve and isn't very thorough about what to do when encountering failures without light or code indicators. In any case, I wonder if, for example, the current draw by the solenoid might be different if the spool is stuck? Since only the rear appears to be affected in a few cases, we could compare the current draw by the front vs. the rear solenoids. I'd need Ionbeam to hold my hand here. The solenoid coils themselves show in-spec resistances.If you have a workshop manual, have a look in section 1 (General Information). It gives a very good description of how the system works, especially the solenoid valves. Mine is a 2009 so not sure it would be applicable to yours. I could could post some pages from mine but would probably have to be shot by Yamaha for breach of copyright
Don
I'm gonna go out there and hit the facker with a hammer again.
Valvoline synthetic DOT 3-4If I were hitting it, I would be using the smallest hammer I had, with the intention of getting it "ringing" rather than just beating it into submission (In other words shake the shit out of it, don't beat the shit out of it). This needs to be done at the same time as the ABS is being functioned, so it's definitely a two person job.I do have the manual and the diagrams are helpful for a general understanding of how the system works. The troubleshooting section, however, doesn't address how to detect a frozen spool valve and isn't very thorough about what to do when encountering failures without light or code indicators. In any case, I wonder if, for example, the current draw by the solenoid might be different if the spool is stuck? Since only the rear appears to be affected in a few cases, we could compare the current draw by the front vs. the rear solenoids. I'd need Ionbeam to hold my hand here. The solenoid coils themselves show in-spec resistances.If you have a workshop manual, have a look in section 1 (General Information). It gives a very good description of how the system works, especially the solenoid valves. Mine is a 2009 so not sure it would be applicable to yours. I could could post some pages from mine but would probably have to be shot by Yamaha for breach of copyright
Don
I'm gonna go out there and hit the facker with a hammer again.
Just as a matter of interest - what brake fluid are you using, I don't want to turn this into a NEPRT about fluid but....
Don
Nice score (if you bought that already (can't tell). Even if this turns out not to be your problem you should have no problem reselling it.
No, a solenoid is just a DC coil magnet and will draw pretty much the same current whether the piston is free to move or not. So it would be unlikely that the ABS ECU would be capable of detecting a stuck one, electrically. But it should see the locked wheel via the wheel sensors and register a fault.
I have not determined that the ECU can see the switch. The brake light comes on when the pedal is pressed and goes off when released. The hydraulic unit tests 1 and 2 depend on the brakes being operated, so I'd guess that the ECU sees it, but I'm not sure.
I read the thread about your stuck rear brake. Did you ever figure out why you could get brake fluid flow through the block in one direction only?
There IS something you or someone with a gen 1 bike with working ABS could do that would help me a lot: I'm curious if the failure of the pedal to return to the resting position in hydraulic unit test 2 means there is a blockage in the hydraulics in my bike, or if that is just normal. Seems like either the signal from the ECU to the solenoid is bad or there is a stuck valve.
