06 vibration mitigation

[caryt]

After reading every post on how to diminish the buzz in the handlebars..right side being xxxx as bad ! I took every step..to not much effect!

I pulled the panels to loosen all engine bolts and tightened all per spec and posts, installed a PIII with Wallies map, std and modded ones ...no change at all <_< The only mod that has helped has been the Grip Puppies but I don't like the increased dia and they also reduce the heat from the heated grips :angry2:

I'm disapointed .. so many have gotten great results doing these mods. Any thing else to try? Love the bike but the vibration is killing my hands!

Thanks, Cary

 

[bramfrank]

Throttle body sync

New plugs

EGA (maybe a bad injector?)

Check compression

Check valve adjusts

If all else fails and you recently hit the jackpot there's always Blueprinting & balancing.

 

[okmac]

I would do a throttle body sync. I ride an 07 and mine is quite smooth.

Mac

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Caryt,

How old are your plugs? Just one bad plug will cause excessive vibration.

Just as the others say, it sounds like you need a Throttle Body Sync. Below is a link to a more detailed-intensive Sync procedure:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=9623 see 3Dogs post

This has made a WHOLE lot of difference for me and dealers usually won't go to this depth.

Hope this helps and good luck!

 

[Hit the Road Jack]

I'll have to agree with the others that a Throttle Body Synchronization has the most potential for smoothing any engine vibration!

When I had a six cylinder CBX, the difference was dramatic.

 

[Lake Powell]

Or you can work from the other end of the problem with some heavier bar end weights, that has worked for me. I got some larger stainless bar end weights and felt a big improvement, just can't remember where I got them?

 

[user 8909]

I recently found my bar mounts loose, just something else to check.

 

[FJRMGM]

it's a big in-line four cylinder so please don't ever expect it to be sewing machine smooth.

If so, the Honda ST-1300 is your next bike.

 

[Ramblin Man]

The ballance shafts are adjustable from outside and the proceedure is outlined in the service manual. Something I've always wanted to try. Just make sure you mark where they are before you move them so you can put them back.

I would think an inlne 4 with twin ballance shafts could be made close to glass smooth. None of my four cyliner car engines vibrate like that. Of course they don't rev to 9500 rpm either.

 

[tyronewildman]

Has it always buzzed or just after U changed something. I have read about this after adding frame sliders. Yammy rep came in and had them loosen all engine mounting bolts and then torque left side bolts first (like the good book say) & then torque right side bolts. Vibes gone!!! Who knows...Later,,, De

 

[818Guy]

Do you have the buzz all the time?

With my 2006 AE, the worst is around 70-75mph. After an hour at that speed I have to take a break. This is usually around the 3500 rpm range +/- 300rpm.

Outside of that it seems to be fine for me.

 

[phil]

Have you ridden another FJR for comparison? As previously stated, it may be you are more sensitive to the issue than other riders. I also have an '06, which seemed better with just grip puppies. But I have ridden buzzy dirt bikes and thumpers for 30 years, plus a few old Harleys, so the FJR is SMOOTH by comparison. LOL

 

[caryt]

The bike vibrates at all rpms just the frequency increases as does the rpm's. I did the engine mounts all left then right...thats what took the 4 hours...PLASTIC :dribble: 2nd time would be much easer. Total waste of time nothing has helped except the first sync ...a little and the grip puppies.

If it only bized on the right side like it does on the left I would be happy

Balance shafts should keep it butter smooth ..I wouldn't care what it did above 5k rpm as I don't spend all day there anyway.

I haven't had a chance to ride another FJR, I'm in Wellington Nv. not many fellow riders around.

Maybe a excuse to ride a 08 when they come out.

Cary

 

[painman]

Run a can of Chevron injector cleaner through a tank of gas first. Make sure all the plugs and wires are in good working order with wire boots secured on plugs. Loosen the mounts with the sliders only, (don't have to remove any plastic), then re-torque starting with the left side first. Do another TBS this time a straight forward by the book sync. Make sure the idle is set at 1000 rpm when done. Go out and road test, crank it up to revs in the upper range backing off and repeat a few times. Should be good to go. Note, my 06 seemed to smooth out somewhat after about 4000 mi. on the clock. But I think all have the buzz around 3 - 4 thousand rpm and smooths out above 70 - 75 mph. Hope this helped. PM. <><

 

[Bike Effects]

If you have not lightened the pull on the throttle return spring, you should do so. Not doing so will increase the PERCEIVED vibration that you feel.

 

[Rondo777]

I agree with Bike Effects. Looseining the throttle return spring really helped. Being able to relax my grip on the throttle really attributed to getting me past the 45min buzz breaks that I was taking when I first got the bike. I'm short, 5'7" which caused me to lean over the bike more than taller guys and carrying more weight on my arms wasnt helping much either. I was going to get risers but realized that If I scutch up further on the seat and get a little closer to the bars it has completely eliminated the numb hands. The buzz is deff still there, for me it seems most annoying at about 80mph but being able to relax my grip has all but eliminated its effect.

 

[wfooshee]

I would think an inlne 4 with twin ballance shafts could be made close to glass smooth. None of my four cyliner car engines vibrate like that. Of course they don't rev to 9500 rpm either.

None of them were bolted directly to the body without rubber isolators, either. Keep in mind the engine/frame connection is rigid, the engine is PART of the frame. No effort of any kind was made to isolate it from the rest of the bike.

Proper, even combustion is essential for smoothness. A weak cylinder will cause a vibration as the engine slows just that touch before the next good cylinder fires.

Good fuel spray (clean injectors), TBS, good plugs, correct valve adjustment all contribute.

FWIW, I went through the same hassles when I got mine in June. Previous owner had already unwound the throttle spring, yet it was still the heaviest throttle of any bike I'd ever ridden. (Heaviest clutch, too, but that's another matter. 2WN is working on that!) I put on Grip Puppies, bar end weights, had a TBS done by a friend who was equipped to do it. Bike had nearly new plugs when I got it. I couldn't ride 10 minutes without a tingly hand.

I put a cruise control on it. I'll set the cruise control just to rest my hand for 30 seconds. Throttle lock would be as good for that, but I wanted cruise for out on the road.

I still get tingly hands (both hands) early some mornings, but I think that's a not-quite-awake circulation problem.

Getting old sucks, but I'm thinking not getting old sucks worse.

 

[caryt]

I did the spring as soon as I got the bike..also did a G2 as soon as it became available. Maybe a new sync as previously mentioned will help and bar that a dyno tune might help. I didn't know that we could play with the ballance shafts and that they are adjustable ...got to learn more about that.

If nothing helps I'll just keep taking my Naproxen and ride!

Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[Mississippi]

I have read in this post, and other posts, about people tightening all the engine left hand mounting bolts, and then the right hand bolts. This is one area where the manual is very specific, and it doesn't say do all the left bolts, and then the right. There is a very specific sequence in the manual as to which bolt to tighten and in what order. In fact, the spacer bolt takes a special tool to tighten properly.

I know...I did this in an effort to quell the vibrations. In my case, it didn't make a damn bit of difference. I would really be interested in hearing more about the Yamaha rep that said to do left first, then right. Seems to go against the manual, but if it helped, you can't argue with success.