08 Barbarian Mod

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Jagermeister,
I think its best to follow the old saying, "If it isn't broken, don't fix it". You are saying your 08 is alot smother than your 07 so move-on & ride.
Sure...but move on with what CO settings? I'd probably just reset them to stock, if I knew what the stock CO settings are.

C'mon folks. Has nobody else with an '08 FJR installed the barbarian jumper and read out the numbers? You don't have to change them or anything...

Then again, Jaeger. If the bike runs well (read: no surging) with 10's across the board, why fiddle with it? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
OK, I'll bite. I have been following this thread closely because I DO have a surge at idle and it annoys the hell out of me. I was going to do the mod the other night, but I installed my racing stripes and that took a little longer than expected due to some sort of anal retentivity on my part. Guess I shouldn't be such a perfectionist. Give me another day or two and I'll see what I find. I'll record stock settings and probably adjust to try to remove the surging idle. Then I'll let you know how it comes out.

Since I have the floor for a minute...

Am I to understand that the settings are "the same" for all bikes in a series (like year group or Gen 1 vs Gen 2). I always thought that EACH bike would have a custom setting based on its variation from "perfect", which the software is designed to operate at. From what everyone is saying, the bikes are close enough that the settings can be the same through an entire production run or generation of the bike. Just trying to better understand.

 
Am I to understand that the settings are "the same" for all bikes in a series (like year group or Gen 1 vs Gen 2). I always thought that EACH bike would have a custom setting based on its variation from "perfect", which the software is designed to operate at. From what everyone is saying, the bikes are close enough that the settings can be the same through an entire production run or generation of the bike. Just trying to better understand.
Neither of those situations has proven to be the rule. A bunch of bikes in a given generation / model year have been found with the same identical numbers loaded. But then there are also exceptions in that same group. So it appears that some are "tuned" and some are not.

 
Am I to understand that the settings are "the same" for all bikes in a series (like year group or Gen 1 vs Gen 2). I always thought that EACH bike would have a custom setting based on its variation from "perfect", which the software is designed to operate at. From what everyone is saying, the bikes are close enough that the settings can be the same through an entire production run or generation of the bike. Just trying to better understand.
Neither of those situations has proven to be the rule. A bunch of bikes in a given generation / model year have been found with the same identical numbers loaded. But then there are also exceptions in that same group. So it appears that some are "tuned" and some are not.
ok, but now at least I understand the general idea. A lot are the same, some are not. PERFECT! :dribble:

 
Seems I'm not very patient... :blink:

I went home at lunch and tried things. Here is what I found:

-I moved wire #23 to open socket #25 (after removing white pin) and replaced plug.

-Held both buttons and turned key on... Bike blew up! :angry: Just kidding. After standard wait, bike entered Diag mode.

-Checked all 4 Co settings and they were ALL 10s (10, 10, 10, 10 for those in the back row) <_<

-Bumped everything to 17 (17, 17, 17, 17 again for those who are catching up)

-Turned key off to exit Diag mode.

-Turned key on... started bike... bike ran fine! (Note, I did NOT undo the BJM! Wire is STILL moved from #23 socket to #25)

-Tried several variations of key-off, key-on, enter Diag, check settings, key-off, key-on, start bike normal, etc. Worked 100% of the time. Had a brief moment to wonder WTF when I noticed the clock said 12:01... did it reset for some reason? :unsure: Oh, no, it IS 12:01! Duh! :dribble:

I know, you are waiting for a BUT... BUT... there isn't one.

-Left bike in BJM modified state and reinstalled plastic.

What gives? No idea. This is my experience and YMMV.

For the record... 08 FJR1300A with NO PCIII. No other mods that would affect the electronics/ignition/computer/the rotation of the earth around the sun. Well, my throttle hand prolly slows rotation a little in one direction, but I restore it on the return leg of the trip. :ph34r:

Yes, I did put the white pin back in socket #23 and Yes, I understand that I am fiddling with settings without the appropriate equipment to measure results. Fortunately, I can access the settings and return them to normal ANYTIME I want. Which I will if I don't see a marked improvement in the idle surge. Further, if it annoys me too much, I'll return the BJM to original and let my dealer figure out why it won't idle as smooth as I think it should.

Comments?

 
Congratulations on a good BJ! Nice to see you are a perfect 10 -- not.

The CO adjustment shouldn't affect the stability of your idle. You don't say how bad it floats around, a little is normal for a light flywheel engine. If the idle wander is light you are a candidate for a good TBS. If you are a real wanderer you should have your dealer do a warranty paid inspection, it could be caused by a vacuum leak.

 
Well, that answers a lot of questions.

Now, to find out if the +7 helps your lean stumble or not. Somehow, I get a feeling that the dealership would be pretty much useless trying to get that straightened out. I hope I'm wrong or the +7 works.

[edit] I didn't pick up on the idle fluctuations bit that Ion brings up. I thought you were complaining of the standard "cruising speed lean stumble".

 
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Well, that answers a lot of questions.
Now, to find out if the +7 helps your lean stumble or not. Somehow, I get a feeling that the dealership would be pretty much useless trying to get that straightened out. I hope I'm wrong or the +7 works.

[edit] I didn't pick up on the idle fluctuations bit that Ion brings up. I thought you were complaining of the standard "cruising speed lean stumble".
Well, then you and Ion confirmed what I was thinking anyway... the +7 didn't seem to change anything. <_< I was under the impression that it would help idle... guess my impression skills need work. :dribble:

I am still at low miles and working on "break-in" anyway, so I will not get too worried about it for a bit. I did the TBS at about 450 miles because I had the tank up anyway. I'll check it again in another 500 miles or so and it should be better broke-in by then. :glare:

That said, I'll be setting my CO back to stock and I'll leave the BJM in case I need it in the future. Besides, someone has to be the long-term testbed for seeing if the bike keeps running. That and the fact that i don't feel like taking the side panels off right now. :rolleyes:

 
Just curious, did you have any of the lean surge on Twist? (do you know what I'm talking about?)

I could care less how the bike idles, myself. I'm more concerned with how she runs!! :yahoo:

 
Just curious, did you have any of the lean surge on Twist? (do you know what I'm talking about?)
I could care less how the bike idles, myself. I'm more concerned with how she runs!! :yahoo:
I did have some surge, but it was less than I have at this point. However, I do NOT remember what it was like when it was new. IIRC, it was about 1K-1.5Kmiles before I got a TBS done and that made things much better. I may very well run into the same situation here. Again, I am not worrying about anything at this point, I am actually being quite critical.

As for the idle vs run, it runs beautifully! Idles pretty good too, just likes to surge a some when warmed up and sitting at a stoplight. I'm officially in a "wait-n-see" mode right now. I just hope my experience has helped with some of the questions about what mama-yamaha did and did not change on the 08 regarding the BJM.

I'm still puzzled by the results of the above posting... :blink: Makes me think maybe a verification of the BJM versus whether or not it still runs would be a good idea. I'm not intentionally questioning anyones ability, but I know I would do it if I were the odd man out. :unsure:

 
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And another thing.... Your idle is set 1,000 to 1,100 rpm? RPMs r good for stable idle.
Yep. I should have pointed out a few of the obvious (to some of us who have played before) things. Idle was a bit low after a couple hundred and I bumped it up to 1100. I tend NOT to rev the engine to start out in first and I prefer to run the idle at the upper limit (1.1K) rather than the lower limit. Again, I'll wait-n-see what another 500 or so miles brings. I love the new bike WAY too much to be worried about a little thing like this. In fact, I SHOULD do a "First Impressions" thread to compare the 08 to my 05... SHOULD. :rolleyes:

 
Finally some confirmation that stock CO settings on an 08 are 10's across the board.

Well, that makes 2 bikes, maybe not exactly a strong representative example (small n size) but at least some agreement.

 
Finally some confirmation that stock CO settings on an 08 are 10's across the board.
Well, that makes 2 bikes, maybe not exactly a strong representative example (small n size) but at least some agreement.

Well, we've increased our level of confidence by 100%!! :rolleyes:

Don'cha just love statistics...

 
Makes perfect sense that if Yami has been releasing prior year bikes with the exact same CO settings, that they would simply include that compensation in the new injector curves for the new ECU, and set the default compensation (CO) settings flat.

I mean, if you already KNOW based on tons of past experience that there is X-difference between cylinders, why not go ahead and base program that way?

 
Thanks Duff Man!

Compared to the 07, I think the 08 is smoother. I atribute part of this to the improved throttle response, but the new ecu seems to make the engine a little smoother, also. That being the case (with mine, at least), the BJM should affect the 08 less dramatically than previous years, when surging was a bigger issue.

At this point, I'm sold on PCIII being the best solution.

 
I just performed the Barbarian Jumper, pulled up the CO menu, expecting to see 5, 18, 18, 21, like the 2007 model.
On my 08 however, the stock settings are : 10, 10, 10, 10.

Has anyone ever seen four identical CO settings on a stock FJR before? Any suggestions, other than "add seven"?
I just did the BJM this past weekend and my '08 stock settings were 10, 10, 10, 10 also. Either they forgot to tune these before shipment or we got really good bikes with no variation cylinder to cylinder ;) (no chance).

SCRider

 
I just performed the Barbarian Jumper, pulled up the CO menu, expecting to see 5, 18, 18, 21, like the 2007 model.
On my 08 however, the stock settings are : 10, 10, 10, 10.

Has anyone ever seen four identical CO settings on a stock FJR before? Any suggestions, other than "add seven"?
I just did the BJM this past weekend and my '08 stock settings were 10, 10, 10, 10 also. Either they forgot to tune these before shipment or we got really good bikes with no variation cylinder to cylinder ;) (no chance).

SCRider
Count me in for another recent BJM'er on an '08 with 10's across the board. Although I took a more conservative approach to increasing the CO as I just wanted to get rid of the lower-RPM lean surge evident in the bike. I started out at +5 across all cylinders... ran fine and the lean surge was gone but did notice a new smell coming from the bike. Perhaps related to the catalyst working harder? I don't know, but it was there -- my wife even noticed it. In any case, I decided to test and drop to +4. Lean surge still gone, or maybe 99.99% gone, and no smell. So, +4 is where I'm leaving it.

I'm so happy that info like this is available. The bike otherwise is a pleasure to ride.

 
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Seems I'm not very patient... :blink:
I went home at lunch and tried things. Here is what I found:

-I moved wire #23 to open socket #25 (after removing white pin) and replaced plug.

-Held both buttons and turned key on... Bike blew up! :angry: Just kidding. After standard wait, bike entered Diag mode.

-Checked all 4 Co settings and they were ALL 10s (10, 10, 10, 10 for those in the back row) <_<

-Bumped everything to 17 (17, 17, 17, 17 again for those who are catching up)

-Turned key off to exit Diag mode.

-Turned key on... started bike... bike ran fine! (Note, I did NOT undo the BJM! Wire is STILL moved from #23 socket to #25)

-Tried several variations of key-off, key-on, enter Diag, check settings, key-off, key-on, start bike normal, etc. Worked 100% of the time. Had a brief moment to wonder WTF when I noticed the clock said 12:01... did it reset for some reason? :unsure: Oh, no, it IS 12:01! Duh! :dribble:

I know, you are waiting for a BUT... BUT... there isn't one.

-Left bike in BJM modified state and reinstalled plastic.

What gives? No idea. This is my experience and YMMV.

For the record... 08 FJR1300A with NO PCIII. No other mods that would affect the electronics/ignition/computer/the rotation of the earth around the sun. Well, my throttle hand prolly slows rotation a little in one direction, but I restore it on the return leg of the trip. :ph34r:

Yes, I did put the white pin back in socket #23 and Yes, I understand that I am fiddling with settings without the appropriate equipment to measure results. Fortunately, I can access the settings and return them to normal ANYTIME I want. Which I will if I don't see a marked improvement in the idle surge. Further, if it annoys me too much, I'll return the BJM to original and let my dealer figure out why it won't idle as smooth as I think it should.

Comments?
Same procedure, same result. All stock CO settings were on 10 from the factory. Settings are adjustable and the bike runs fine.

 
I don't know anything about the bikes yet, but from a programming standpoint (I'm a database administrator), my guess is that the yamaha engineers added a stock bias for each cylinder. That is, the 5,18,18,21 is already built into the computer programming so that 10,10,10,10 in the 08's is really the same as 5,18,18,21 in the earlier models. It makes logical sense because it simplifies any tuning that needs to be done.

 
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