08 suspension linkage replacement

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Fjryder

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has anyone replaced or changed the supension links on a gen II? cant seem to figure out a way to remove the lower bolt as the center stand prevents it from coming out. does anyone have any pics? much appreciated.

 
You ain't gonna like this answer but......

To get that bolt out you have to remove the center stand.

To remove the center stand bolts you have to remove the exhaust header pipes from the engine which means you have to remove both side fairings.

The eaiest way to remove the header pipes is to remove the radiator, but with patience you can just disconnect the bottom radiator bolt so it pivots forward and possibly get your hand in there.

Also to remove the header pipes you of course have to remove the mufflers and unplug the O2 sensor wire at the right side of the throttle bodies and feed that wire down through the chassis.

To unplug the O2 connector you have to remove the gas tank, the cross bar, and the heat shield.

Basically, it is an all day job. Why you want that bolt out?

 
You ain't gonna like this answer but......
To get that bolt out you have to remove the center stand.

To remove the center stand bolts you have to remove the exhaust header pipes from the engine which means you have to remove both side fairings.

The eaiest way to remove the header pipes is to remove the radiator, but with patience you can just disconnect the bottom radiator bolt so it pivots forward and possibly get your hand in there.

Also to remove the header pipes you of course have to remove the mufflers and unplug the O2 sensor wire at the right side of the throttle bodies and feed that wire down through the chassis.

To unplug the O2 connector you have to remove the gas tank, the cross bar, and the heat shield.

Basically, it is an all day job. Why you want that bolt out?
Is it really that involved? Wow...kinda like the spark plug change on the old Chevy Monza...needed to lift the motor off its mounts to get to them.

 
Is it really that involved? Wow...kinda like the spark plug change on the old Chevy Monza...needed to lift the motor off its mounts to get to them.
Same thing on a '67 Mercury Comet Convertible I had back then! Had to lift the Motor 4" off the Mounts just to get to one Spark Plug!!! :dribble:

What a PITA!! :blink: Needless to say, It didn't get replaced as often as the others! :rolleyes:

 
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If you're talking about the 'dog bone' links, it's not that involved, but the center stand must be up so you have to support the bike with a floor jack or similar.

At least that's what I did on my 08.

 
Is it really that involved? Wow...kinda like the spark plug change on the old Chevy Monza...needed to lift the motor off its mounts to get to them.
Same thing on a '67 Mercury Comet Convertible I had back then! Had to lift the Motor 4" off the Mounts just to get to one Spark Plug!!! :dribble:

What a PITA!! :blink: Needless to say, It didn't get replaced as often as the others! :rolleyes:
Same on my 440 Chrysler-finally I drilled holes in the inner fender to gain access..Re: centerstand bolt-isn't the easy way just to cut off the bolt and when replacing put the bolt in from the other direction?

 
S76 is unfortunately dead-right about getting to the very front/forward pivot linkage (relay arm) bolt. The center stand MUST come off.

You MAY be able to force the headers down enough and remove the center stand bolts, WITHOUT removing the headers. I just did that job on my '07 due to a failed front bearing and seal.

BE CAREFUL!!! Much force is required to move the headers downward to clear the bolts, and the bike is typically suspended in a very precarious position. If the big girl topples over you can be seriously injured! I find it a dangerous job to do alone and highly recommend some adult supervision.

Once the bolts are removed, you can turn them around the OTHER WAY, use some extra flat washers and re-assemble the center stand in a way that doesn't require flexing the freakin' headers again!!!

One more thing to watch for under there...

That very forward-most pivot bearing is held centered between two aluminum flanges which are part of the frame itself. On the right side is a steel bushing that's a press-in fit. That bushing is responsible for keeping the relay arm centered between the flanges. If you strike something with the relay arm (like a speed bump in a parking lot), it can nudge the bushing out of place and allow the pivot bearing seal to rub against the aluminum flange. This will cause water and corrosion to set in, with eventual bearing failure imminent.

Make sure to inspect the relay arm for smooth rotation AND check for any presence of side-play. If it freely moves from side-to-side, then that bushing has probably been bumped out of place and needs your immediate attention.

 
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has anyone replaced or changed the supension links on a gen II? cant seem to figure out a way to remove the lower bolt as the center stand prevents it from coming out. does anyone have any pics? much appreciated.
The center stand needs to come off and there's a very easy way to do that. I chucked up a 4inch cutoff wheel to my die grinder and sliced the head off that bolt that won't come out because the exhaust is in the way. If you loosen the nut first, it's fairly easy to cut the bolt head off without damaging anything else. I still have a non-Yamaha bolt installed to replace the one I cut off, but I did order the factory bolt to use the next time I lube the links. Note that installing the bolt from the inside will make removal much easier next time.

 
If you strike something with the relay arm (like a speed bump in a parking lot), it can nudge the bushing out of place and allow the pivot bearing seal to rub against the aluminum flange. This will cause water and corrosion to set in, with eventual bearing failure imminent.
So this is what we can expect if when we dual sport our feejers, Jeff? :rolleyes:

 
Ditto on the cutting the bolt heads off. Due to the great tips on this forum, I knew what I was in for, so I purchased the bolts and nuts before hand. I did not pry the pipes down for fear of breaking the exhaust seals, and instead of a cutting wheel I used a hack saw blade by hand (Hey it was a very cold day in the garage this winter - I needed the BTU's>

As someone else had noted earlier also, backing the nuts off allowed the bolts to be pushed back in order to cut the bolt heads off. And oh yeah, were those nuts on there tight. Get some six point boxed end wrenches.

I was also aided by use of the pipe stand to suspend the bike. I wrapped soft ties around the frame (with seat off of course) and around the the cross bar on the pipe stand with tie downs in between soft ties. (Search the forum for constuction of pipe stand. ) I also have a Handy lift , so I was able to stablize the bike when I wanted by letting the Handy up and down to suspend or settle the bike.

Beatch job, but with the winter we just had, made things more bearable (down time necessary).

Assemble the stuff, and as Jeff says, go slowly for safety, and have at it. CC

 
If you strike something with the relay arm (like a speed bump in a parking lot), it can nudge the bushing out of place and allow the pivot bearing seal to rub against the aluminum flange. This will cause water and corrosion to set in, with eventual bearing failure imminent.
So this is what we can expect if when we dual sport our feejers, Jeff? :rolleyes:
Unfortunately I think it WAS a damn Wal-Mart parking lot speed bump. :(

 
S76 is unfortunately dead-right about getting to the very front/forward pivot linkage (relay arm) bolt. The center stand MUST come off.
You MAY be able to force the headers down enough and remove the center stand bolts, WITHOUT removing the headers. I just did that job on my '07 due to a failed front bearing and seal.

BE CAREFUL!!! Much force is required to move the headers downward to clear the bolts, and the bike is typically suspended in a very precarious position. If the big girl topples over you can be seriously injured! I find it a dangerous job to do alone and highly recommend some adult supervision.

Once the bolts are removed, you can turn them around the OTHER WAY, use some extra flat washers and re-assemble the center stand in a way that doesn't require flexing the freakin' headers again!!!

One more thing to watch for under there...

That very forward-most pivot bearing is held centered between two aluminum flanges which are part of the frame itself. On the right side is a steel bushing that's a press-in fit. That bushing is responsible for keeping the relay arm centered between the flanges. If you strike something with the relay arm (like a speed bump in a parking lot), it can nudge the bushing out of place and allow the pivot bearing seal to rub against the aluminum flange. This will cause water and corrosion to set in, with eventual bearing failure imminent.

Make sure to inspect the relay arm for smooth rotation AND check for any presence of side-play. If it freely moves from side-to-side, then that bushing has probably been bumped out of place and needs your immediate attention.
Jeff - I want you to know how much I appreciate your posts to this forum - :rolleyes: I should live closer to you so you could take care of CrZy8 for me...
 
If you strike something with the relay arm (like a speed bump in a parking lot), it can nudge the bushing out of place and allow the pivot bearing seal to rub against the aluminum flange. This will cause water and corrosion to set in, with eventual bearing failure imminent.
So this is what we can expect if when we dual sport our feejers, Jeff? :rolleyes:
Unfortunately I think it WAS a damn Wal-Mart parking lot speed bump. :(
Try shopping at "Dollar General"...no speed bumps there and you don't have to get dressed up... :rolleyes:

 
If you're talking about the 'dog bone' links, it's not that involved, but the center stand must be up so you have to support the bike with a floor jack or similar. At least that's what I did on my 08.
i am talking about the dog bone links....got any pics?

 
Jeff - I want you to know how much I appreciate your posts to this forum - :rolleyes: I should live closer to you so you could take care of CrZy8 for me...
Wow Don! I greatly appreciate the compliment. I definitely wish we lived closer. Although, we might get into some serious trouble in the dirt. :)

 
The centre stand bolts that interfere with the exhaust need to be reversed. To reverse the bolts, ideally, you need to remove the exhaust downpipes. Once the pipes are off you can prop the the bike on the side stand and a block of wood on the other side to support the bike(cable tie the front brake to stop the bike moving whilst using leverage on wrenches etc.)

Then you can undo all the rear linkage bolts and lubricate/clean bearing/bolts etc. That is the only way to remove the front bolt connected to the swingarm!

I did this job last winter whilst removing the swingarm for checking and cleaning. :D

Andy

 
You ain't gonna like this answer but......
To get that bolt out you have to remove the center stand.

To remove the center stand bolts you have to remove the exhaust header pipes from the engine which means you have to remove both side fairings.

The eaiest way to remove the header pipes is to remove the radiator, but with patience you can just disconnect the bottom radiator bolt so it pivots forward and possibly get your hand in there.

Also to remove the header pipes you of course have to remove the mufflers and unplug the O2 sensor wire at the right side of the throttle bodies and feed that wire down through the chassis.

To unplug the O2 connector you have to remove the gas tank, the cross bar, and the heat shield.

Basically, it is an all day job. Why you want that bolt out?

I've had my centerstand off ,without going thru all that ********.I just loosened up the right side muffler and pulled it out far enough to get the one backwards bolt out of the centerstand.

 
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