'13 A&S Clutch retrofit?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thinking out loud...... do not have a '16 FSM........ would be nice to know how this actually works...... what is the difference between new and old plates, thickness? More plates in the new stack, but is total stack same? If one didn't necessarily care about the assist or slipper part, the lighter pull might be possible with only the pressure plate parts? Or do you actually have to have the new clutch boss? The reported drop in effort to half is concerning, Yamaha promoted 20%. Item 17 is available in 3 thicknesses, is this what is needed to tune that effort more towards 20%..... thinking there might be early slippage as the plates wear in and get tested in high torque situations, so would want a minimum pressure plate tension?

Measured GenII with Gen1 slave & OEM lever set to 3, GenIII with OEM lever set to 3, GenIII with Pazzo lever. Piece of 1" pipe slipped over lever, outboard end (point of pull) 12" from pivot point. Results, 118 oz., 99 oz., 101 oz. So, GenIII is also 20% lighter than GenII. Will measure a '16 soon.

BTW, there is no need to drain oil for clutch change as there is only residual oil in there. Our clutches are pretty dry relatively speaking and do not sit in a bath of oil.

 
That's what I figured as well. Still waiting as well for the parts. Possibly here next week but who really knows! LOL

 
If you ordered from Pro Caliber (as I did) I placed my order on 4/28 and it is still in process (not shipped yet).

We may be overloading their parts department with these clutch part orders. ;)

 
I told them what I did and that they will be getting a lot of orders for the parts - hopefully to give them a heads up to order more of the backordered parts to stock.

 
Thinking out loud...... do not have a '16 FSM........ would be nice to know how this actually works...... what is the difference between new and old plates, thickness? More plates in the new stack, but is total stack same? If one didn't necessarily care about the assist or slipper part, the lighter pull might be possible with only the pressure plate parts? Or do you actually have to have the new clutch boss? The reported drop in effort to half is concerning, Yamaha promoted 20%. Item 17 is available in 3 thicknesses, is this what is needed to tune that effort more towards 20%..... thinking there might be early slippage as the plates wear in and get tested in high torque situations, so would want a minimum pressure plate tension?
<snip>
I'm pretty sure the thicknesses are the same, but I know at least 2 of the plates have a smaller larger inner diameter where they go onto the new clutch boss. I wouldn't be surprised to find that most of them are just different enough that I wouldn't want to risk it. Considering it would only be a relatively small savings, it just isn't worth it IMO.

As for the thickness in the #17 plate, I'm inclined to think it will only effect engagement point. The thinner plate would engage later while the thicker one would engage sooner. That may translate to an impact on the slipper function, with the thinner plate allowing it slip more easily, and the thicker plate making it slip less. Pull effort is dictated by the springs, and while there might be a very tiny difference, it's probably not going to be noticeable.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
... If one didn't necessarily care about the assist or slipper part, the lighter pull might be possible with only the pressure plate parts? ...
The lighter pull is because of the "slipper" mechanism. It's the torque of the drive that forces the plates together allowing lighter springs to be used, as well its prime use for moving them apart during the severe engine braking when the slipper action is wanted.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Technically it is the "assist" part that allows the lighter springs. The opposite action of the same slipper ramps that drive the plates tighter together during acceleration drive them slightly apart and allow the slip during deceleration. If you just put the lighter springs in there you'd end up with a "slipping all the time" clutch. ;)

 
Had the opportunity this afternoon with a 2014 A parked next to my 2016 A to apply a handheld luggage scale to the clutch levers of both bikes. In no way would I claim these numbers are absolutely accurate but they are reasonable to compare one against the other. This is the pulling force, not the holding force. There is a lot of stiction in the system, deliberate I suspect because it makes it easier to hold the clutch than to squeeze the clutch.

2014 FJR1300A: 8800g

2016 FJR1300A: 6300g

The 2016 is about 30% easier to squeeze.

The 2014 had been ridden an hour prior, the 2016 was cold.

 
Thinking out loud...... do not have a '16 FSM........ would be nice to know how this actually works...... what is the difference between new and old plates, thickness? More plates in the new stack, but is total stack same? If one didn't necessarily care about the assist or slipper part, the lighter pull might be possible with only the pressure plate parts? Or do you actually have to have the new clutch boss? The reported drop in effort to half is concerning, Yamaha promoted 20%. Item 17 is available in 3 thicknesses, is this what is needed to tune that effort more towards 20%..... thinking there might be early slippage as the plates wear in and get tested in high torque situations, so would want a minimum pressure plate tension?
The pressure plate parts won't fit the old clutch boss. The springs are a completely different structure, there's a different number of bolts that hold it on, and the ramps that achieve the assist and slipper function are parts of the pressure plate and the boss; ramps on the pressure plate piece engage ramps in the clutch boss.

All or nothin' to make the swap. Basically everything inside the basket from the boss outward.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yep, all or nothin' is becoming very clear now....... not sure that I'm going for it/need it yet unless I want to be one of the kool kids. Got a buddy with an AE...... wonder how that would go......

 
Yep, all or nothin' is becoming very clear now....... not sure that I'm going for it/need it yet unless I want to be one of the kool kids. Got a buddy with an AE...... wonder how that would go......
Totally unnecessary. Actuators do the pulling for you, so lever pull is irrelevant, and the "slipper" function is already done by software.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update: Received this message today Re back ordered parts needed for the clutch mod,

B88-16173-00-00 SPRING,

B88-16371-00-00 BOSS, CLUTCH

27D-16331-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION

93306-00315-00 BEARING

2CR-16337-00-00 SCREW, SPRING

The current release date is as follows: 6/20/16

 
My parts are starting to dribble in. I sent an email to Chris at ProCaliber and told him to wait until he had them all before paying to ship them across the country, but they are being shipped in small groups still.

I do have the pressure plate and the clutch hub aready, which are the two main pieces that perform the slipper and assist functions, and it is pretty ingenious stuff. I'm sure that people have seen the video of how it works by now, but if not



Probably won't have my swap-out done until sometime after FODS ride in early June since I am still short about a half dozen parts. FJR won't be going there anyway as I'm taking the ManStrom down to WV.

 
LOL they did the same for me - in the end they wasted $30 in shipping - even sending an empty package once...I told them they need to have a talk with the kid in shipping, guess they didn't listen.

 
No real problem for me. I'm not in any kind of a mad rush. I just feel bad for them. And with the prices they had, I'd like if they would hang around for a while... ;)

 

Latest posts

Top