grumpypoos Gen 1 transmission repair
- Thread starter grumpypoo
- Start date
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Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
Most torque wrenches need to be calibrated periodically.
Transpomgr
Member
That would probably be the easy thing to do, but what about us? We've been following along, cheering wildly, blown away by the speed you're moving. Think about the fans man!
I know I know.
I'm just pissed off about two bolts snapping. That's literally all (gaskets too) that's holding me from putting this back in the bike.
I'm going to give myself a couple day break. Hell 15-31 is 7.2 ft lbs so I'm gonna use my arm gauge for that.
I also managed to get gasket down into the oil journal so I'll need to suck that out (its one clob not tiny pieces)
I think I need to sit down and rethink this bottom end, because it's obvious I'm not doing it the most ideal way.
I need to clean the insides again... The engine is sitting on my mom's garage floor and she is a heavy smoker never enough blankets to keep all the ash out. (Cylinders are plugged)
Soo I will go back tomorrow and pull the case again (3rd times the charm!!!). Clean the **** outta that engine. I'm gonna clean it up like it owes me a million dollars.
I will then proceed to take a break till say Saturday? From which point I'll move forward. It seems like my best work is on the weekend with this thing. Rightfully so I'm drained after work and a 45 minute ride on a shake machine (harley) doesn't really help.
tl;dr: grumpy ******* and moans then proceeds to come up with a game plan to combat his rookie mistakes.
I'm just pissed off about two bolts snapping. That's literally all (gaskets too) that's holding me from putting this back in the bike.
I'm going to give myself a couple day break. Hell 15-31 is 7.2 ft lbs so I'm gonna use my arm gauge for that.
I also managed to get gasket down into the oil journal so I'll need to suck that out (its one clob not tiny pieces)
I think I need to sit down and rethink this bottom end, because it's obvious I'm not doing it the most ideal way.
I need to clean the insides again... The engine is sitting on my mom's garage floor and she is a heavy smoker never enough blankets to keep all the ash out. (Cylinders are plugged)
Soo I will go back tomorrow and pull the case again (3rd times the charm!!!). Clean the **** outta that engine. I'm gonna clean it up like it owes me a million dollars.
I will then proceed to take a break till say Saturday? From which point I'll move forward. It seems like my best work is on the weekend with this thing. Rightfully so I'm drained after work and a 45 minute ride on a shake machine (harley) doesn't really help.
tl;dr: grumpy ******* and moans then proceeds to come up with a game plan to combat his rookie mistakes.
Hotboot
Well-known member
Sometimes a break makes better progress. I use an air compressor to blow away my dust and clean the hard stuff if that's an option. Hang in there and good luck.
Donal
Well-known member
Are you lubricating these bolts before you torque them to recommended specs?
Unless the manual specifically calls for luibricating the bolts you should reduce the applied torque by at least 60%.
Most of the torque applied to a bolt is taken up by friction in the threads and under the head of the bolt.
Unless the manual specifically calls for luibricating the bolts you should reduce the applied torque by at least 60%.
Most of the torque applied to a bolt is taken up by friction in the threads and under the head of the bolt.
RossKean
Well-known member
You should verify your torque wrench calibration!
You can check it against a known good torque wrench very easily. Alternatively, you can try Fred's simple calibration routine
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=144294
You can check it against a known good torque wrench very easily. Alternatively, you can try Fred's simple calibration routine
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=144294
ionbeam
2 FUN
Torque wrench -- clicker or bending beam? Some clickers are sensitive to how the wrench is used and will produce different results depending on up/down pressure on the handle while turning the bolt. Also, a steady pressure works better than sort pulls or jerky pulls.
No I'm not lubing the bolts.
It's a harbour freight clicker. Probably should calibrate it no telling what actual torque it gives off. Anything above 10 ft lbs is dead on. Below that and it gets hairy.
I took it in steps and to be fair the bolt that snapped had very little pressure the entire time?
It's a harbour freight clicker. Probably should calibrate it no telling what actual torque it gives off. Anything above 10 ft lbs is dead on. Below that and it gets hairy.
I took it in steps and to be fair the bolt that snapped had very little pressure the entire time?
It can also make a difference on the range of the wrench. Regardless of quality and calibration, they are always most accurate in the middle of their range.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
I wouldn't trust a Harbor Freight torque wrench to tighten a bolt on a screen door. Although some of them work great for what we need, HF tools are mostly crap.
Sorry man...A better wrench should be in your very near future. Hope these things stop snapping. You're almost there!!
Sorry man...A better wrench should be in your very near future. Hope these things stop snapping. You're almost there!!
BkerChuck
Second hand vegetarian
Not trying to be a tool snob but Hazard Fraught is definitely not my go to place for quality tools.
I also prefer the beam type torque wrench for my personal use. I've had more than one clicker type not click when my arm told me it should have and on one occasion this caused me to snap off a rocker arm bolt in the cylinder head of a Mopar small block leaving me very unhappy. Clicker type is nice for those times where you have to work blind and can't see the beam or if you make sure to have them calibrated regularly. Far too many casual owners let them set when they put them away and that messes with the internal spring leading to inaccurate torque.
I also prefer the beam type torque wrench for my personal use. I've had more than one clicker type not click when my arm told me it should have and on one occasion this caused me to snap off a rocker arm bolt in the cylinder head of a Mopar small block leaving me very unhappy. Clicker type is nice for those times where you have to work blind and can't see the beam or if you make sure to have them calibrated regularly. Far too many casual owners let them set when they put them away and that messes with the internal spring leading to inaccurate torque.
bergmen
Well-known member
You can make a quick (and cheap) test fixture like this (arm is 12" long from center):
Dan
Dan
Ha, that's a pretty slick way to test a wrench!
The HF clickers are OK, you just want to have all 3 of them, and only use them in the middle of the range. I bought my 3, took them to a neighbor's house to test against his nicer wrenches, then ended up swapping out the 1/2" HF for a different one.
The HF clickers are OK, you just want to have all 3 of them, and only use them in the middle of the range. I bought my 3, took them to a neighbor's house to test against his nicer wrenches, then ended up swapping out the 1/2" HF for a different one.
bergmen
Well-known member
I have two Craftsman clicker torque wrenches I've had for decades (3/8", 5-75 ft.lbs. and 1/2", 10-150 ft.lbs.). The wrenches clicked very close to the settings (within a few ft.lbs. IIRC) but most important, they were consistant. They clicked at the same weight each time.
I didn't run a comprehensive full range test, only on a few values.
Dan
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