2003 Valve Adjustment

[Goody]

I had put my bike in the shop last week to take care of a myriad of things. Among them was to check the valve clearance as there is about 59k on the bike. I have owned it for just about a year, but I have worked for the man who bought and owned it since new. He changed the oil and filter religiously at 3000 miles, always using Mobil 1. He had the valves checked at 25k. In both instances, now and then, all clearances were within spec. Now obviously we can't say conclusivley that the oil and intervals are the reason, but it makes a good case for regular maintence with top grade oils. YMMV

Drive safe, there's lots of idiots out there on holiday weekends. I still remember the ad campaign by TexDot 20+ years ago.

"Watch out for the other guy"

 

[wfooshee]

A lot of people have said that the bike gets through the first adjustment and then stays good forever. If the first adjustment is actually just a check, then great!

I know there are other stories, but that's what I seem to hear the most, nothing needed once the first was done.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I had put my bike in the shop last week to take care of a myriad of things. Among them was to check the valve clearance as there is about 59k on the bike. I have owned it for just about a year, but I have worked for the man who bought and owned it since new. He changed the oil and filter religiously at 3000 miles, always using Mobil 1. He had the valves checked at 25k. In both instances, now and then, all clearances were within spec. Now obviously we can't say conclusivley that the oil and intervals are the reason, but it makes a good case for regular maintence with top grade oils. YMMV

It does make a nice 'feel good' story -- but, changes in valve clearance (when they occur) are mostly a metallurgy issue between the valve faces and valve seats in the head (where there's no oil).

Mobil 1, though, may have helped this early (Gen I) FJR -- prevented it from becomming a 'ticker'? Yamaha admits to having installed "too tight" valve seals on the valve guides of Gen I s -- causing a lack of lubrication between the valve stem and guide; then, galling and wear. Mobil 1 (synthetic oils, in general) have a reputation for finding their way into small spaces. Maybe, in this case, it really helped...?

I have a friend who decided to use Mobil 1 in his '70s Honda 4 when Mobil 1 was a 'new thing'. He used it in his SAAB and thought it must, then, be good for his Honda? Well, after a while his Honda began to idle poorly and seemed 'down on power'. When checked-over, it was found that his valve clearances had increased (unusual) and, when adjusted, would repeatedly get out of adjustment (looser) -- while the poor idle and low power continued.

Disassembly showed carbon build-up on the bottom of the valve stems preventing the valves from seating completely in the head. A valve-job w/new seals on the guides and a switch away from Mobil 1 solved the problem. Apparently, Honda hadn't yet heard (early-mid-'70s) of Mobil 1 and its "Super-Slippery-Ness".

 

[Patriot]

I bought an '83 Wing in 2003 with 35k miles on it from ebay.

Of course in 20 years the engine seals had hardened, but for months at first, no leaks.

I then switched to Rotella full synthetic and within a 1000 miles there was obviously slight, but noticable weeping of oil showing up on the outside of the engine, especially underneath.

Switching right back to Rotella dino/convential oil, all weeping/leaking stopped...guess the synthetic is too slippery for old, hard seals

 

[carlson_mn]

Those valves being in spec has nothing to do with the oil being used. Most likely it has been ridden gently. I had to adjust, just barely, 10 of the 16 valves on my bike. I measured them myself and I was anal about it. I wonder if a mechanic being paid would have said "good enough".

 

[TILAM]

I bought an '83 Wing in 2003 with 35k miles on it from ebay.

Of course in 20 years the engine seals had hardened, but for months at first, no leaks.

I then switched to Rotella full synthetic and within a 1000 miles there was obviously slight, but noticable weeping of oil showing up on the outside of the engine, especially underneath.

Switching right back to Rotella dino/convential oil, all weeping/leaking stopped...guess the synthetic is too slippery for old, hard seals

I have heard that you shouldn`t use synthetic oil in an older engine that hasn`t been on that diet for it`s entire life. The dino oils keep the old seals softer. I also heard that the seals may still leak if you go back to dino oils. Maybe it`s just best to let the old dog lie and not disturb it it with new technology. I strongly beleive that in most instances that todays better dino oils will handle most situations fine.

 

[HaulinAshe]

2007 + 115,000 miles + Oil/filter change every 4,000 miles = Great Valve Checks

Most of the time, I ride the piss out of the bike. It sees 8,000 RPM frequently.

The best thing your 2003 had going for it was an owner who understood the importance of regular oil changes.

The 2nd best thing going for it, was the years it spent on pure gasoline grades. The next 59k miles might not go as well if you don't take extra precautions. Babying the tachometer is not necessarily a good thing.

 

[Goody]

2007 + 115,000 miles + Oil/filter change every 4,000 miles = Great Valve Checks

Most of the time, I ride the piss out of the bike. It sees 8,000 RPM frequently.

The best thing your 2003 had going for it was an owner who understood the importance of regular oil changes.

The 2nd best thing going for it, was the years it spent on pure gasoline grades. The next 59k miles might not go as well if you don't take extra precautions. Babying the tachometer is not necessarily a good thing.

I doubt there is much carbon build up since I bought it.

 

[Sticky Throttle]

...The 2nd best thing going for it, was the years it spent on pure gasoline grades...

Interesting... I've run my 2003 almost exclusively on Chevron with techron for 8 years, thinking it will keep the valves clean and reduce the chances of valve-related problems (including ticking). But about 6 mo ago all the Chevron dealers in our area began selling only E10. I've avoided that and began buying gas at an Exxon station that doesn't have Ethanol because of the notion that E10 damages some of the fuel-delivery system components in smaller engines, such as motorcycles.

Any insight or recommendations on this? I haven't had any valve-related problems and can't help but wonder if my use of (supposedly) higher-grade gasoline with additives/cleaning agents such as Techron has helped. The unfortunate addition of E10 has caused me to wonder if it's worth it.

Sorry for the potential hijack and possible 'can of worms' discussion that might ensue, but it's a related subject that might be of interest to those with similar questions about additives vs E10. Is E10 bad for mc engines like the '03 and later FJR? Do higher grade fuels with cleaning additives make a bonafide difference? :huh:

 

[Graham Downunder]

Glade to hear its OK .Most engines with bucket type vavle adjustments realy only need one adjustment as they remain pretty stable . Oils have improved a lot since the early 1980s and some like Mobile 1 are very thin like 0-40 or 5 -50 these are very thin oils that flow very well but can actually leak past seals in old engine not designed for these types of oils. With a bike like the FJR1300 oil changes are so easy just keep changing it regularly,oil is cheap compared to an engine .