Auburn
Well-known member
Looks like the FD on Perry's bike is doing well. The rear wheel looks very clean for day 10 of a rally. Good job Low and Silent for the pre-rally assistance you provided Mr. PK :clapping:
Looks like the FD on Perry's bike is doing well. The rear wheel looks very clean for day 10 of a rally. Good job Low and Silent for the pre-rally assistance you provided Mr. PK :clapping:
Anything to help.Looks like the FD on Perry's bike is doing well. The rear wheel looks very clean for day 10 of a rally. Good job Low and Silent for the pre-rally assistance you provided Mr. PK :clapping:
Ummm ... nevermind. I thought this rider was going to swing through Denver/SLC overnight and be cranking west on I-80 by now. They had been on a vector to do that yesterday.I don't know who 929 is but I think this rider bears watching. I like their current position and direction.My best guess is 929 is headed to Santa Fe, via smaller highways but more directly. 4
Rock on, 929, rock on. Whoever you are.
In Austin this morning and looking like they are heading to Denver.
Watch this rider, folks. They are on track to put in a big ass leg 3.
Speaking of the spotwalla- excuse me if it's already been posted, but guy who has been aggregating the Spot screens on the ST owner's forum has posted the animation of the first two legs on youtube,
That's awesome... Very cool...animation of the first two legs on youtube,
Key factor would be not to have a stock chain on from the start. Without that, the master can easily be punched with a $10 tool and a chain can be installed in minutes. Of course, this assumes no sprockets or damage.Have you ever changed a chain on any stock street bike? They are almost always pinned, which means you need a grinder or file to remove the pin so you can punch out the pin to remove. Or you need a means to cut the chain. You also need the pinning tool to properly install the chain. I would not want to depend on a master link for a street bike as they are prone to failure. Gonna take about an 45 minutes to get everything done and adjusted if you have all the tools with you. This assumes you don't have to change sprokets, which usually you do with a new chain. Sprockets will add another 1/2 hour at least.Ease, quickness and availability of any RD failure repair during the IBR is also an important factor.+1 I've had lots of shaft drives and ride a chain-driven DL-650 in addition to an FJR. Maintaining a chain so that it will last 15 or 20,000 miles is not difficult at all. A little more work than changing the lube in a shaft drive, yes - but it is by no means a black and white issue. Final drive issues in BMW bikes have caused many people to reconsider the previously sterling reputation of shaft drive systems and, along with advances in chains and chain lubrication systems and the introduction of some really cool bikes that are chain driven, there's been renewed interest in chain drive among serious long distance riders and rallyists.Sorry ... This isn't even close to being true!Don't even think of LD riding with a chain drive M/C unless you want to do a lot of maintenance in route.
Accepted, a well set up shaft drive involves less maintenance but ...
A decent chain and sprocket set, with an automatic oiler will go tens of thousands of miles with no more than routine adjustment, which takes minutes.
Additionally, the whole set up can be changed out pretty fast and at modest cost. Shaft drives have their clear advantages, but if they break then, in most cases, you are toast.
Personally, I would choose a shaft drive, but I wouldn't necessarily think that it gave me much of an advantage over a good bike with a decent chain, and a rider who knew how to look after it.
You'll see a lot more shaft drives than chains at an endurance riding event, but you can ride long distances (and rally very successfully) with a chain drive bike, no doubt about it.
I am not a Bimmer pilot but I'd assume that even with Saint Supermeese having a whole replacement rear drive with him, it would still
take an experienced Bimmer mechanic with some substantial tools a lot more time to replace a rear end than it would a chain.
If I had a drive shaft failure myself having the limited mechanical skills that I do, (see tagline) I would much prefer that shaft drive rear end be repaired by a brand knowledgeable mechanic (dealer more than likely) which may or may not be anywhere near where the bike is. On the other hand, if I were carrying a spare chain with me and didn't want to replace it myself, I'd suspect even a lawn mower repair shop could probably actually replace the chain.
It would not be difficult for a failed shaft drive RD to escalate to the point of a Timebar or other DNF of the (approx $10k to run) IBR, probably much less likely the chance of that happening on a chained bike if the rider is carrying a spare chain.
With certain brands the shaft liability is even higher.
There is certainly some degree of angst amongst certain Bimmer riders going on in their head throughout the rally wondering that simply is a non-concern for other brands or even a bike with a spare chain in it's saddlebag. Those riders can worry about other things than
their RD failing and knocking them out of the rally altogether.
For the FJR, to change out a final drive is a matter of removing the rear wheel, removing 4 bolts, and pulling the drive. Lube the splines on the new FD, install, put the 4 bolts back on, put the rear tire on and you are under way. Probably would take about 30-45 minutes for most people.
The FD option is much easier to deal with IMHO. Pretty much fool proof. The down side is the wieght and size difference to carrying a FD unit with you.
Perry is a great guy. Solid rider as well. I'm hoping he finsihes well.Looks like the FD on Perry's bike is doing well. The rear wheel looks very clean for day 10 of a rally. Good job Low and Silent for the pre-rally assistance you provided Mr. PK :clapping:
ROFL!!! :rofl: I love this thread! Here's to him making it to Ontario! :drinks:From the Triples Online forum early this AM:
Scientists at Roswell are excited about the discovery of a time tunnel because one of them was overtaken by a '69 Trident with a Windjammer on it, on his way to work last night!
I would like to thing that folks running the IBR would be skilled enough to their own maintenance. For a final drive replacement, I would also think that they would have done it so they know how long it takes to replace.Ease, quickness and availability of any RD failure repair during the IBR is also an important factor.+1 I've had lots of shaft drives and ride a chain-driven DL-650 in addition to an FJR. Maintaining a chain so that it will last 15 or 20,000 miles is not difficult at all. A little more work than changing the lube in a shaft drive, yes - but it is by no means a black and white issue. Final drive issues in BMW bikes have caused many people to reconsider the previously sterling reputation of shaft drive systems and, along with advances in chains and chain lubrication systems and the introduction of some really cool bikes that are chain driven, there's been renewed interest in chain drive among serious long distance riders and rallyists.Sorry ... This isn't even close to being true!Don't even think of LD riding with a chain drive M/C unless you want to do a lot of maintenance in route.
Accepted, a well set up shaft drive involves less maintenance but ...
A decent chain and sprocket set, with an automatic oiler will go tens of thousands of miles with no more than routine adjustment, which takes minutes.
Additionally, the whole set up can be changed out pretty fast and at modest cost. Shaft drives have their clear advantages, but if they break then, in most cases, you are toast.
Personally, I would choose a shaft drive, but I wouldn't necessarily think that it gave me much of an advantage over a good bike with a decent chain, and a rider who knew how to look after it.
You'll see a lot more shaft drives than chains at an endurance riding event, but you can ride long distances (and rally very successfully) with a chain drive bike, no doubt about it.
I am not a Bimmer pilot but I'd assume that even with Saint Supermeese having a whole replacement rear drive with him, it would still
take an experienced Bimmer mechanic with some substantial tools a lot more time to replace a rear end than it would a chain.
If I had a drive shaft failure myself having the limited mechanical skills that I do, (see tagline) I would much prefer that shaft drive rear end be repaired by a brand knowledgeable mechanic (dealer more than likely) which may or may not be anywhere near where the bike is. On the other hand, if I were carrying a spare chain with me and didn't want to replace it myself, I'd suspect even a lawn mower repair shop could probably actually replace the chain.
It would not be difficult for a failed shaft drive RD to escalate to the point of a Timebar or other DNF of the (approx $10k to run) IBR, probably much less likely the chance of that happening on a chained bike if the rider is carrying a spare chain.
With certain brands the shaft liability is even higher.
There is certainly some degree of angst amongst certain Bimmer riders going on in their head throughout the rally wondering that simply is a non-concern for other brands or even a bike with a spare chain in it's saddlebag. Those riders can worry about other things than
their RD failing and knocking them out of the rally altogether.
496 has chosen I80. It was a fairly fast road when I went through there back in August, but there was construction that brought it down a single lane both directions for miles and miles and miles. Hopefully they have finished with that.Looks to me like nearly all of the Denver to SLC riders took I-70 instead of I-80. That surprises me - S&T, Mapsource and Google Maps all say I-80 is faster.
Curious.
According to MAX BMW's website give or take $1800 for a K1300 GT I would think that other models are close in price as well.just out of curiosity, what exactly does a spare BMW FD cost?
K 1200 GT 06 - $1793.92Looks like 771 has taken the scenic route. I love that road too but I don't know if it's the fastest way across.
On another note, with the chain vs shaft and costs associated with doing an IBR, just out of curiosity, what exactly does a spare BMW FD cost?
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