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I don't know if it's particularly relevant, but my oil is darker (in the glass) than it has ever been. At the 600 mile service, when I was doing 4K changes, or even compared to after I went to 5k oil changes. I think it fits with the symptoms and the fact that they disappeared after the much overdue plug change. But I had no performance changes (or oil color change) prior to the recent blip I posted this thread about. For posterity, I'll also note that, despite varied and spirited riding, the TBS required very little adjustment at all. Ride safe.

 
It may be the nipples yet Wheatie. The issue is back. Just as before, the only difference being that I'm somewhat used to it. I'm going to wait until my next out-of-town assignment at work and put it in for warranty repair. I'm guessing an injector, or a coil/wire issue, based upon My total ignorance.

 
FWIW. When my Gen I was cold, i.e. less than 2 bars showing on the temp gauge, when giving the throttle a good twist it would initially have a noticeable flat spot and then zoom on normally. Similar to what is described in post #1.

I've noticed something on my '15 over the last few weeks but never put it together. My new FJR also seems to have a flat spot like the Gen I but it also happens when it is warm out. Well, warm is a general term, I've been riding to work in the mid 20's (F). I have also noticed that when riding in the cold that the Air Injection System stays active well beyond what it would in my Gen I with decel exhaust popping happening after riding long enough that the engine should be warm. I switched my display so it shows coolant temp and my bike can be in the 120 - 150 range at the time of the popping. It kinda makes me wonder if the engine is still in a cold run FI trim and I'm indeed getting some of the choke flat spot. Supporting this theory of choke staying on, I have yet to get my mileage up to 40 mpg, I'm stuck around 36 - 38 mpg. It'll be easier to tell over the next few weeks when the daytime temps are above the 50 - 60 degree range. Today coming home from work it was actually in the 70s and I didn't notice the flat spot. Guess I'll be watching the wildly flickering coolant temp and see if there is a possible correlation between the flat spot and the decel popping.

 
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I'm not sure if mine stumbles right after starting, but it'll do it hour after hour. Mpg for me is over 40 when I'm not doing regular strafing runs. I've found myself cranking through the throttle faster to minimize time spent in the stumble zone. I have a serious riding problem. I ride almost every day. Will have to find a time to force myself to turn it in for service. I always schedule surgically brief service windows for things I can't do myself. The first overnight in 28K was the overdue plug/TBS recently. In case it's relevant, my coolant temps are normal and steady, and I have no popping on decel (or any other symptoms, for that matter).

 
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It does it in sport and touring. It does it hot or cold. It does it in cruise. It does it in different gears. It does it on a plane. It does it on a train. Great bike. Still ride it constantly. But it's a problem that will require service. <blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="s.ga.rider" data-cid="1310132" data-time="1463178278"><p>

Does it do it in sport and touring?</p></blockquote>

 
Wish me luck. It's getting worse. I'm putting it in the dealer shop for warranty repair shortly. I have no idea how long that will take. Hate it.

 
Update. Bike is at the shop now. They said they've only been able to duplicate it once ( I can do it all day). Mothership has had them check nipples, TPS, plugs, coils. All tested fine. Now they have instructed the shop to change the oil and filter and clean the injectors. One of which has nothing to do with the problem, while the other just might. We shall see.

 
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Got it back. They checked plugs, coils, TPS, "shocked" injectors, whatever that is (I'd like to know, readers), and changed the oil and filter, all under Y.E.S. I was Solo, so I had to trailer it for the very first time. Stressful, but the harbor freight chock I put on last year was great. It will Not hold the bike upright on its own unless conditions are perfectly level. But it makes everything much easier. I missed the bike. Will post once I've had a chance to ride and see if the problem remains. They could not find a technical problem, or even reproduce the running symptom reliably. I only turned it in for warranty work because it got so bad it regularly adversely affected riding. We shall see.

 
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Good luck, Bill. Hopefully some of the shotgun blast hit something meaningful. But, you know... don't be too disappointed if they missed.

Shocking the "injectors" sounds a bit surreal. It's not like they are monkeys or anything...

 
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Bill, I've been having stumbling off idle and popping on decel with KrZy8. I found dirty injectors due to JB Weld being ground into particulate matter in the aux tank.

Here's a little blurb of my home-brew cleaning process.

The freshly cleaned injectors will go back on in about 10 days.

Good luck!

 
Roger that. I still have the same problem. Jerking back and forth just over idle. Will resubmit to dealer and Yamaha once the weather gets cold. Unless it gets too bad between now and then.

 
You jest, but I specifically told the service manager that. They'd have taken it right back and tried some more, but I wasn't willing to leave it longer when they'd exhausted everything Yamaha told them to do. I suspect phase II will be them replacing stuff one thing at a time to see if it helps. Doesn't appear as pronounced or as repeatable during 95-100 degree riding as it does in 50-60 degree riding. But that may be just me.

 
Got it back. They checked plugs, coils, TPS, "shocked" injectors, whatever that is (I'd like to know, readers)....
Since you have thread tags like nipples, dill pickles and navel fuzz the dealer can have processes like shocking the injectors (you should have heard the joke they told the injectors, you would have been shocked too).

Using a strong chemical treatment is often referred to as "shocking". Go to any pool supply place and you can buy pool shock chlorine -- a very strong dose of chlorine used to rapidly get a pool balanced. Yamaha describes how to use a really strong ratio of Ring Free to gas to "shock" the fuel system. The Ring Free package says, "Use 2 oz/ gallon to shock treat, and 1 oz / 10 gallons for normal use..."

 
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Bill, I had the same symptoms, a stumble between 3 and 4 K RPM, on cruise control or not, any gear. Based on research on this site and in the Yamaha shop manual, the most likely cause was the TPS. I had no codes, diagnostic tests were all in spec. Other symptoms I noticed included deterorating fuel mileage and the ECO indicator was flashing on and off. Page 8-37 in the manual described our situation: bike is not running right, but NO check engine light. First item listed for troubleshooting was TPS. I took a $100 gamble and replaced the TPS using ionbeam's excellent how-to.

Just got back from Barber Motorsports Park yesterday, (600 miles) bike never stumbled, fuel mileage is creeping back up, and ECO indicator illuminates normally. If your dealer hasn't fixed it yet, maybe it's time to risk a C-note and replace the TPS.

 
Truth. Mine is much lower in rpm's, and my mileage is uniformly excellent. But I already absorbed ion's tale and excellent write up. I, too, think it is a TPS that just isn't testing bad yet. I'm going to see how it performs and adjust accordingly. I think it's that or a coil that just isn't ready to fail. I have no qualms with replacing a TPS out of pocket if it gets worse. Not that Yamaha wouldn't get there and cover it if I gave them sufficient time and lessons on recreating the problem. Excellent advice here as usual. #nipplesforionbeam

 
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