2016 FJR1300A Check Engine Light On

[AdamK]

I was able to reproduce the "turn the key slowly" and generate a CEL.

One interesting side effect of doing this was the bike wouldn't start?? It turned over but wouldn't catch. Kind of like when I've turned the key <almost> to ON and tried to start it. I cleared the CEL and turned the key to ON and it still wouldn't start. I could smell gas so I figured it must be flooded somehow. I did the well documented starting of the bike with the throttle wide open and I finally caught and started. I didn't have this issue when I tried to start the bike while mid-trip a couple of months ago, but the bike was still warm as we had only stopped long enough to have breakfast.

So, turning the bike over in the "almost ON" state, or after the slow key turn to ON, appears to not only turn the starter, but also delivers fuel, but no ignition??

 

[Viper Pilot]

Definitely time for the mother ship to come up with a redesign and recall!

 

[Harald]

birkdale10 wrote:snip

Based on the error codes on the bike's electronics, this is what caused the problem: Engine running, sidestand down, hit the kill switch and leave the key on for more than 3 minutes. This seems to trigger something the bike thinks is an engine error. Solution: turn off the engine with the key.

snip

I can't be sure but he didn't say the bike was in gear when he put the sidestand down, which is what everyone has assumed in their testing. What if it was in neutral and the engine was killed with the Kill switch instead and then leave the key on for over 3 minutes? This would be a different shutdown situation and may trigger the CEL.

 

[N4HHE]

Took my 2016 in last week for gasoline odors first thing in the morning when sun warms cool bike.

Dealer couldn't find anything, or smell. So I came to pick it up Saturday morning. Don't remember CEL when I first started the bike but it was there in the first 1/4 mile. So I u-turned. And waited. They had to download diagnostic software. And waited. And finally gave up needing to call Yamaha on Tuesday. Sent me home on a 2008 Suzuki C109R. Reaffirmed my dislike for feet-forward running boards. Heck of a lot better than walking 30 miles home, and 30 back.

My first CEL at 10,500.

Will call dealer for update soon.

When does Yamaha west coast wake in the mornings?

I normally kill engine with kill/start switch (dirtbike habit). Have often left key on for extended periods.

 

[AdamK]

Did you have to turn the key to ON more than once to start it? The dealer might have done it to you. If you <almost> turn it ON you can hit the start button and have the starter spin without ignition. That'll trigger the CEL every time. I've done this multiple times now to demo my iPhone OBDII scanner software and it's ability to clear a CEL.

You can also generate a CEL by turning the ignition key slowly to ON. Something like 4 or 5 seconds of slow turning. There's something wrong with the ignition switch or the ECU software in the 2016.

Both of these conditions trigger a P1601 (I think that's right) error. If you look it up in the shop manual they say one of the possible reasons is an issue with the side stand switch. Given the side stand circuit is tied in with the ignition it's probably just a false warning.

 

[NTXFJR]

Got a call from my dealer's service manager a while ago. He informed me that mother ship has released a firmware update to address the issues listed in these previous posts, and I didn't ride in to work today dammit.

 

[N4HHE]

Am pretty sure I didn't cause the CEL, 10,500 miles of experience.

Tech said a firmware update was coming but couldn't say when. But they are ready having spent two days updating their laptop.

 

[AdamK]

Here's the tech bulletin describing the issue and that there is an ECU software update available to fix it.

 

[AdamK]

Call one of my local dealers and confirmed this is just an ECU flash. No ECU replacement required.

 

[AdamK]

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[NTXFJR]

Call one of my local dealers and confirmed this is just an ECU flash. No ECU replacement required.

Yep, that's all my dealer's service manager did was to download an ecu reflash. I went out to my bike just now (it's now been a trouble free no cel event under normal operation circumstances week), and tried to induce a cel event by purposely performing a slow key on start (as in 4 or 5 seconds slow). No cel on. I then tried what I think some have described as another possible scenario, which is turning the key mostly on but not all the way on, and then pressing the start button. No cel on with that one either. Let's ride!

 

[AdamK]

Call one of my local dealers and confirmed this is just an ECU flash. No ECU replacement required.

Yep, that's all my dealer's service manager did was to download an ecu reflash. I went out to my bike just now (it's now been a trouble free no cel event under normal operation circumstances week), and tried to induce a cel event by purposely performing a slow key on start (as in 4 or 5 seconds slow). No cel on. I then tried what I think some have described as another possible scenario, which is turning the key mostly on but not all the way on, and then pressing the start button. No cel on with that one either. Let's ride!

When you turned the key almost to ON did the bike start? If it did, you turned it a little too close to ON, or they change the behavior in the ECU. I've induced the CEL by turning it close enough to ON to turn over, but not start.

 

[bamanerd]

I got tired of the Check Engine Light showing, and had nothing to do for a few days, so I rode my 2016 FJR1300ES from DFW to Cullman, AL (where I bought it) to get it taken care of.
(I really am not impressed with either of the two Yamaha shops near me.)

This turned into an adventure to share.

First, the folks at D&H Cycle wanted to help. The first thing they said they would try is to reset via pushing buttons on the console. When I got it there, they tried and ... it just did not work. Later in the process ... the mechanic was on the phone with Yamaha tech support in CA and was told that the console reset was available in '14 and '15, but deactivated on the '16 models. On purpose.

I love the guys at D&H, and they did great for me buying the bike, and I will give them kudos for working on the problem full time, this time. But...sigh. First, they got out the electronic black box and connected it to the bike, and to a notebook computer and started having problems. Installed the software from Yamaha and updates and set up connections, but it never connected. After about 3 hours, the first call to Tech Support discovered that - the software/black box does NOT work with a Windows XP notebook.

Bring out a Windows 7 laptop and try again. More screens showing, more highlighted options on the screen - but no connection. More Tech Support. Oh - this Windows 7 computer has never had all the latest updates to Windows installed, and - the black box needs the latest. Updates for a few hours, and give up for the night.

Next day, try again and still no connection. Another call to Tech Support, and they install some software that lets the guy in CA connect to the laptop and control it directly. Uninstall EVERYTHING - and reinstall only 1 set of programs.

And it connects. 7 hours of connection, and 2 minutes to clear the CEL.

Based on the error codes on the bike's electronics, this is what caused the problem: Engine running, sidestand down, hit the kill switch and leave the key on for more than 3 minutes. This seems to trigger something the bike thinks is an engine error. Solution: turn off the engine with the key.

Simple! All I have to do is counteract the 30 years of killing the engine with the kill switch, which, for better on worse, is what I have been doing on every bike I've ever had a kill switch on. Muscle memory is there!

I feel for the mechanic - he spent at least 5 hours on nothing but my bike, and I was not charged a cent. Definitely a 'warranty' problem. I even got a couple of cold sodas handed to me while I was waiting around.

And, the weather was just about as good as it could be for the whole trip.

Sounds like a great bunch of guys up there at D&H. I'll have to ride up there sometime and meet them all. I live just east of B'ham in a little town called Moody. Also.... I'll be riding out to Dallas in a couple weeks to spend Christmas with some family. Maybe I'll bump into some of you Texas FJRers out there!

 

[NTXFJR]

Just now saw this Adam. No, my bike would not start which tells me the key was sufficiently off of the on position.

 

[NTXFJR]

bamanerd,

I'm 30 minutes south of Dallas. Will be working on my son's '04 for part of that, but give us a shout when you're in town maybe we can hit some road time.

 

[Uncle Hud]

bamanerd posted: Sounds like a great bunch of guys up there at D&H. I'll have to ride up there sometime and meet them all. I live just east of B'ham in a little town called Moody.

The D&H folks are great! Oh wait, I mean they are REALLY great! The Cullman train station is a BMR 2017 bonus, so I'll be heading to D&H again this spring.

 

[SDave1969]

Bought the DynoJet cable, but my Bluetooth adapter will not light up. When I plug it into my 2016 Chevy, it lights up, but just not with the bike. I checked the pinouts and it does get 12V to the correct pins. I ordered the MX from NewEgg and hopefully that will allow me to talk to the bike. The adapter I have is about 5 or 6 years old, but should work.

 

[08FJR4ME]

So glad to have a 2015 now. Gunmetal grey Feejers Rock.

Dave

 

[AdamK]

Bought the DynoJet cable, but my Bluetooth adapter will not light up. When I plug it into my 2016 Chevy, it lights up, but just not with the bike. I checked the pinouts and it does get 12V to the correct pins. I ordered the MX from NewEgg and hopefully that will allow me to talk to the bike. The adapter I have is about 5 or 6 years old, but should work.

Interesting. I never tried my 10 year old, corded scanner. You'd think it would work??

 

[SDave1969]

Bought the DynoJet cable, but my Bluetooth adapter will not light up. When I plug it into my 2016 Chevy, it lights up, but just not with the bike. I checked the pinouts and it does get 12V to the correct pins. I ordered the MX from NewEgg and hopefully that will allow me to talk to the bike. The adapter I have is about 5 or 6 years old, but should work.

Interesting. I never tried my 10 year old, corded scanner. You'd think it would work??

Actually, it is an OBDII bluetooth scanner that works in my new truck, but won't power up on the FJR.