2016 Is Official 6-spd, Slipper, LEDs, Analog Tach, Price

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
As far as rack loading goes, the real support for the rack is the grab handles being loaded in tension. The weight of the top case is cantilevered out over the rear of the rear subframe. Without the grab handles, the rear bulkhead would have to support the load of a twisting moment. The grab handles resist that twist by carrying the load in tension. The OEM rack has been plastic, and the grab handles break under tension, which then allows the rear bulkhead to rotate under the load. The Givi steel tube rack is stronger, not because it carries more weight directly, but because it's stronger in tension. If the new rack is allow, it has to be better than the plastic rack. Is the new rack allow, or do you have to get that piece as a Yamaha replacement? In other words, will Yammy let you put the 50l case on the basic rack.....?

But I agree with Fred. There's no spreading load at the front of the rack. The front of the rack is in tension, and the only way it would be in compression is if you hit something at speed and threw the top case forward hard. That situation would have other issues beside the top case and its mount. :)

boxonsubframe.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
beemerdons would be proud. This thread has really drifted waaaay off course and there is a pic of an ultra hottie included.

I am pleased to see that Yamaha is offering an accessory "stiffener" for the FJR. That tells me that they will be addressing that issue with the next Gen, whatever number we give it. I have to say that that top box looked huge back there and did not compliment the lines and dimensions of the FJR. I would be very curious to see what price Yamaha will be asking for that stiffer rear rack and for that ginormous top box.

 
beemerdons would be proud. This thread has really drifted waaaay off course and there is a pic of an ultra hottie included.
I am pleased to see that Yamaha is offering an accessory "stiffener" for the FJR. That tells me that they will be addressing that issue with the next Gen, whatever number we give it. I have to say that that top box looked huge back there and did not compliment the lines and dimensions of the FJR. I would be very curious to see what price Yamaha will be asking for that stiffer rear rack and for that ginormous top box.
...or if they allow a top-case load greater than 10 lbs.

 
Thanks for the explanation, Fred and Wfooshee. I was thinking that at some point, somebody would bring in Moments of Inertia, Elastic Yields, and Proportional Limits into the conversation. In a former life, I used to work with those terms a good bit. Apparently, it has been too long as your explanation makes good sense. I think we can all agree that having the metal between the lower mounting points does make the rack stronger, just not in a way that will likely ever become an issue....

.... except unfortunately it became a minor issue for me.

grand%20scheme247_zpsfts7hbyx.jpg


When I fell in October, at least part of the impact occurred at the top box. The V46 did not disconnect, and it still works perfectly today, aside from a little rash on the left side, and some rash on the (since removed) red color matched cover. The rash on the top of the box tells me that the bike must have slid for a short while past 90 degrees to the road. Now the angle of the dangle may have had an impact on the rack and the rear frame.

The dealership did not include the rear bike frame in his estimate. Admittedly, I never examined it closely to see if there were any cracks, bends, etc. I was allowed to keep the Givi rack to put on my new bike. When I removed the rack from the totaled bike, it was very hard to undue the fasteners. The rear frame was torqued a little, I'm afraid. Ironically, when I installed the rack on my new (to me) and current bike, it went on like butter - all of the holes perfectly lined up.

Guess in the big picture, it didn't matter as I wasn't able to continue riding after the crash. Even if the Givi rack would have disintegrated, the end result would have been the same. I do have even more faith in the quality of the Givi products now, I just wish I would have gotten that faith some other way.

Before I left on that trip, I weighed my top box loaded and it was right at the GIVI limit of 22 pounds. Maybe a smidge more.

Back on topic (sorry Mods), guessing at the price for the non-tubular Yamaha rack, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't change a thing.

 
As far as rack loading goes, the real support for the rack is the grab handles being loaded in tension. The weight of the top case is cantilevered out over the rear of the rear subframe.
For static loading, yes. However we're talking about dynamic loading here so I think you're over simplifying the design criteria. On the Honda ST the engineers designed in a lateral damper on the top box mount to address lateral loading. You can actually push the top box laterally about a 1/4". Part of that may have been to address the dreaded high speed ST weave. With the back end bouncing up and down I'm sure you can get dynamic loads acting upward nearly as large as the downward static forces. With unbalanced loading in the topbox you could get torsional effects. We study dynamic effects on buildings where I work, but the principles are the same. I would assume the Yamaha engineers upped the load rating and modeled/studied the dynamic effects and reinforced the mount as required. Of course if they were lazy they could have just eyeballed it and beefed it up! :)

 
Every failure of the rear subframe documented on this forum has been the rear bulkhead rotated out at its top, almost always with a failure of the grab handles which were either intentionally removed to make room for something else, or simply pulled apart by the load.

 
uhoh.gif
I put in "tail box" in the search engine and got 122 results.

I don't see the relevance to the 2016 FJR.

This thread has swerved off topic and beginning to read like Commanders bike above.
offtopic.gif
]

poster_spam.gif


 
The Northeast Motorcycle Expo will be local to me (Rockingham Park Race Track, Salem NH) at the end of January. I may have to drop by and see if they have a '16 FJR on hand. More importantly, see if I can arrange a test ride in the spring and establish what the new price will be. I never asked for a 6 speed but it's here anyway. I was hoping that Yamaha might break out and use a new color like the '14. Even though I'm not liking the '15 color it's looking more like I'm shopping for a left-over '15. What ever I end up with I'm hoping to really like it because it will probably be the last motorcycle I buy
cray.gif


 
I actually like the look of the black wheels but thus far I am not impressed with the quality of the finish. Also, and this is hard to explain, the texture of the inside of the black rim (at least on the '14) is rougher than the rim side. I like to apply a good coat of wax to my wheels (OCD I know), but the inner rough texture doesn't do well with this.

Hopefully the black '16 wheels are better, but I'm not holding my breath

 
I actually like the look of the black wheels but thus far I am not impressed with the quality of the finish...Hopefully the black '16 wheels are better...
It might be time to consider clear coat for wheels. With a little more work there is always power coating.

 
On French online Part Catalog 2016 models are already shown.

I have taken some snapshots - comparison between '15 and '16. My main interest was to find out what is changed and if some parts from '16 might fit to '13-'15 (I really like LED).

Looks like rear frame is not changed (I expected changes because of different tail light assy and higher load by bigger trunk):

161.jpg


165.jpg


Headlight assy. I checked also A and AS version of 2016 and part number for Headlight assy is the same. Either it is not completely correct yet or new feature of cornering light is just SW driven and LED are there for A/AS???:

162.jpg


Tail light assy comparison:

166.jpg


Most of covers are the same on tail area :

164.jpg


Meter part Nr. is identical for '15/'16:

163.jpg


Clutch and transmission - main changes on engine. Also Crankcase has different part nr.

160.jpg


167.jpg


 
Looks like individual gear wheels are not available separately any more, only fully assembled axles.

Also, regarding the tail rack being the same part, I'm still wondering about the part referenced in post 578. Is that a required add-on for the 50l case? That would be a difference in the tail structure, stronger grab alloy rails over plastic, in a similar manner that where the Givi rack replaces the plastic OEM with steel. That goes along as an answer to kieefjr's complaint that the thread went off-topic. It did not, as this is a new offering for 2016, apparently specifically meant to address the load limit shortcomings of the previous OEM top case system.

 
Also, regarding the tail rack being the same part, I'm still wondering about the part referenced in post 578. Is that a required add-on for the 50l case? That would be a difference in the tail structure, stronger grab alloy rails over plastic, in a similar manner that where the Givi rack replaces the plastic OEM with steel. That goes along as an answer to kieefjr's complaint that the thread went off-topic. It did not, as this is a new offering for 2016, apparently specifically meant to address the load limit shortcomings of the previous OEM top case system.
That's exactly what I am thinking

 
I actually like the look of the black wheels but thus far I am not impressed with the quality of the finish. Also, and this is hard to explain, the texture of the inside of the black rim (at least on the '14) is rougher than the rim side. I like to apply a good coat of wax to my wheels (OCD I know), but the inner rough texture doesn't do well with this.
Hopefully the black '16 wheels are better, but I'm not holding my breath
The wheel is initially rough cast, probably a sand casting, which gives the entire wheel a rough finish. As production progresses, the inner and outer edges are machined on a lathe which is what give them that smoother finish. It's been the same on all the generations. I took the time to remove the paint on the edge which will show the lathe finish.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top