2nd/3rd Gen Mirror Spacers & LED Light Brackets

[Justin]

Sorry Dave, I re-opened the flood gates

 

[nealopp]

Th... Third?

 

[blitzburgh]

count me in on some brackets for the stock mirrors..

 

[Justin]

Hopefully Dave's out playing in the shop this weekend :lol:

 

[blitzburgh]

Hopefully Dave's out playing in the shop this weekend

I hope so.. I just ordered a pair of LR4's/Dimmer for the brackets... It's actually above zero here in Ohio.. Snow is melting and salt on the roads are starting to wash away.... Sounds like riding weather to me..

 

[Warpdrv]

Getting close... Up in the 50s this week for us here...

 

[ionbeam]

Hopefully Dave's out playing in the shop this weekend

If the Forum chips in and buys Ann a day at the spa Dave may get the time to finish the spacers

 

[08FJR4ME]

Making chips now.

One question I have is using the brackets with the stock mirrors. I think Fred and I discussed it a bit but didn't come to a conclusion. I believe the stock mirrors will need a thicker spacer (How thick?). I also think the special nuts can be eliminated for the stock mirrors also.

 

[blitzburgh]

I think in a past post Dave said fz1 mirror's need 10mm thick spacer & stock mirror's would need 18mm thick spacers..

 

[08FJR4ME]

See post in Group buy section.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/155221-wynpro-anti-vibe-light-brackets/?p=1214843

Thanks, Dave

 

[Fred W]

One question I have is using the brackets with the stock mirrors. I think Fred and I discussed it a bit but didn't come to a conclusion. I believe the stock mirrors will need a thicker spacer (How thick?). I also think the special nuts can be eliminated for the stock mirrors also.

I think in a past post Dave Fred said fz1 mirror's need 10mm thick spacer & stock mirror's would need 18mm thick spacers..

The above is correct for 3rd Gen bikes.

If you'll be using the FZ1 mirrors then the back spacers need to be 10mm thick.

If you'll want to use the stock mirrors with the brackets you'll need the back spacer to be 18mm thick and you will still need a set of the FCCNs.

There is a possibility that you could use a spacer that was less than 10mm thick and stick with the stock nuts, but I did not make any tests or measurements around doing that. I would be worried about the back of the bracket hitting/rubbing against the front faring if the spacer was too much less than 10mm.

 

[AdamK]

I used a set of these WinPro, Dave's, mounts to support a GoPro camera. Worked out great!

More pics here: https://koczarski.com/2016-yamaha-fjr1300es/wynpro-mirror-aux-light-mounting-bracket

 

[Mudslide Miller]

Adam, I like your camera mount. 2 questions; can you show a close up of the ball mount you used on the bottom of the Go Pro? Trying to figure out how you attached it to the Go Pro. Also have you had a chance to use the camera mounted there yet? Any vibration issues at different speeds?

 

[AdamK]

The ball which is attached to the WinPro plate is a standard 1" ball with an M10 x 1.25 threaded rod. I re-drilled the hole in the WinPro plate and tapped it for the Ball mount. The mount on the camera case itself is also a RAM mount. It's a standard GoPro RAM mount at one end and a 1" ball at the other.

Haven't used it yet, but I think it's going to be good. The camera was previously mounted on my Honda ST front fairing. The front fairing on the FJR seems to move more that the ST fairing. This is why I opted for a hard point mount. I suppose there could be some vibration at various RPMs. I'll be testing it soon and will report back.

 

[Mudslide Miller]

OK. Good to know. I wasn't aware that RAM had a specific ball mount for the Go Pro case. I'll be scoping that out soon.

 

[eflyguy]

RAM gopro mount - amazon B00G970GX4

 

[Madmudder]

Yeah, I do actually have risers on there already. You are right... without some sort of risers the Strom guards are a no-go.
They are the Genmar type (clones). Simple spacers that come with longer bolts for the bars that I found on Amazon. They get the bars up just enough to have the hand guards clear the front cowling, with the added effect of blocking the inner third of the stock mirrors.

Do you have a link to the risers. A little more rise would be welcome, especially if I get to use the handguards again. Amazing how you take something for granted then do with out. I had forgotten just how good they are from shielding your hands from rain and cold.

I was going to go for the Heli-bridge until I realized I'd have to ditch my stem mounted TechMount. I don't want the GPS on my bars.

Come to think of it, I'll have to buy new handguards. I sold the ones off my 04 already :/

https://www.barkbusters.net/products/bbz

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/barkbusters-blizzard-universal-handguards

I replaced my Vstrom handguards with these

 

[Mudslide Miller]

RAM gopro mount - amazon B00G970GX4
[img=[URL="https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Lfdc47HVL._SL1199_.jpg%5D"]https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Lfdc47HVL._SL1199_.jpg][/URL]

Thanks Adam and Efly, just picked up this and a couple other essentials on Amazon today. Now for some drilling on my Clearwater light brackets.

 

[Kendoo]

The ball which is attached to the WinPro plate is a standard 1" ball with an M10 x 1.25 threaded rod. I re-drilled the hole in the WinPro plate and tapped it for the Ball mount. The mount on the camera case itself is also a RAM mount. It's a standard GoPro RAM mount at one end and a 1" ball at the other.
Haven't used it yet, but I think it's going to be good. The camera was previously mounted on my Honda ST front fairing. The front fairing on the FJR seems to move more that the ST fairing. This is why I opted for a hard point mount. I suppose there could be some vibration at various RPMs. I'll be testing it soon and will report back.

Any issues removing the plastic trim piece needed to get at the mirror bolts? I received a set of Dave's brackets a couple weeks ago and plan to mount them this week. I dread the thought of snapping some plastic clips off.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Ken, you only need to remove the panel that covers the IP. Remove two headlight adjust knobs (small Phillips), two screws at the top inboard part of the IP, and one on each side lower. I use a plastic pry stick to unsnap any clips... don't be askeered of a little snap crackle pop........