$83 oil change?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Of course, I always use pure Peanut Oil. I use it to fry fish, shrimp, oysters, chicken and French fries. I use hog lard to fry turkeys though.
I have never tried the Lard when frying a turkey.

Do you get much of the pork flavor?

Is the lower scorch temperature an issue?

This was my 1000 th post!

Do I get a prize?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry guys, I am not ready to back down on this one. There are additives that help keep viscosity within the preferred range. They do not cause the oil to get thicker when it gets hotter.

 
Well, the multi-weights don't actually thicken. They just have additives that inhibit viscosity loss at higher temperatures such that they exhibit the viscosity that a thicker oil would have at higher temperatures.
Interesting, I have never heard it explained that way, and on the surface it appears that you are spliting hairs, but your explanation sounds very logical.... And supports RH's position.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The way I heard it was a 20w50 oil will drip like a (cold) 20w when cold and it will drip like a (hot) 50w when hot.

 
Of course, I always use pure Peanut Oil. I use it to fry fish, shrimp, oysters, chicken and French fries. I use hog lard to fry turkeys though.
I have never tried the Lard when frying a turkey.

Do you get much of the pork flavor?

Is the lower scorch temperature an issue?
Since this foolishness is already in NEPRT I guess we are exempt from Rule 10...

No, not much "pork" flavor but it is a rich and delicious addition to an already tasty meal. It does make a difference. No, the lower temp is not an issue. We use thermometers to monitor the temps and keep it in the acceptable range.

Perhaps we need some of those magic additives they put in the Yamalube. When we start the lard is a thick jelly. As it heats up it turns into a thin liquid. I have no idea what weight it is. I'd guess about 5W20... Of course being Hog Lard there are no options for synthetic.

 
Sorry, I had to come back to this one again. Since I was perhaps a bit too sarcastic...

Seriously, when you drain the oil from any engine in any piece of equipment, you see the effects of temperature on oil viscosity. A cold engine yields thick oil. A warm engine, thinner oil. A hot engine, very thin oil.

The additive packages (among other things) keep the oil within the desired viscosity ranges. The goal being to keep it from being too thick on cold start up and to keep it from getting too thin during extremely high engine temperatures.

At first I was just teasing Gary, he is soooo much fun to pick on. My apologies if my sarcasm offended anyone. Of course, if I made any of you laugh, that would be a good thing!

 
I love oil threads!

Oil is a bloody commodity with some additives. I've never had any issues with any of the oils I've used over time. I use Rotella-T just cause I like the extra goo that helps the shear on the tranny IMHO. Other than that who cares. It's all what makes ya feel good.

Find me the guy that used the wrong motor oil and cooked his motor. I dare ya....

 
To the OP; just consider that for your 83 dollars you got a clutch soak (and a free oil change). Not a bad deal at all.

 
Oil & filter for under $50, 1/2 hour labour charge, taxes...... for dealer service, sounds like a decent deal to me if you're into that. I do my own and it costs me under $50.........

 
Let me give some clarification on oil viscosity and weight ratings:

Viscosity is expressed in terms of the time required for a st­andard quantity of the fluid (at a certain temperature) to flow through a standard sized orifice, now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity).

The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. All oils, regardless of weight or multi-vis weight rating, will always have a lower centistoke measurement (viscosity) as temperature increases.

Below are the approximate centistoke ranges for various SAE "straight weight" oils measured at 40°C and 100 °C

Weight 40°C 100 °C

5 18-20 3.8-4.0

10 20-35 4.0-5.5

20 35-78 5.5-9.5

30 78-120 9.5-12.5

40 120-170 12.5-16.5

50 170-270 16.5-22

So an oil that is rated 20W50 would be expected to flow in the 20 weight viscosity range at 40°C (35-78 cSt) and the 50 weight oil range at 100 °C (16.5-22 cSt). The oil is still considerably thinner at the higher temperature, just not as thin as a straight 20 weight oil would be.

The SAE cold weather oil rating (the first number in the SAE multi-vis classification) actually gets considerably more complicated than this, and is not actually determined based on the oil's viscosity rating at low temps, but rather on some other cold weather type measurements of cranking rate and pumping rate, but this is a good way to think about multi-viscosity oils purely from viscosity vs temperature standpoint.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Somewhat back on topic:

I rode the ST over to Dad's house this morning to change the oil in his FJR. He is perfectly capable of doing this himself of course, but... Most of you already understand why it makes Dad and me happy when I do this for him. He sat in a lawn chair and watched carefully while I did the work.

He outsmarted me by digging in the bag for the receipt while I was pouring in the oil. He began tallying up his "bill".

"$13.99 for the filter, $5.99 a quart for oil, I know you put on a new crush washer but it's not on here." The argument escalated from there.

Dad and I settled on something much less than $83. His FJR oil change, including components, cost him:

Two fried eggs

5 pieces of bacon

1 slice of toast

1 glass of orange juice

2 cups of coffee

10 minute test ride to circulate the oil

We both got a pretty good deal I think.

 
We both got a pretty good deal I think.
I'm inclined to agree. But you left out one significant item from your list:

Couple of hours time spent with your old man under the pretense of "changin' his earl."

Yeah, I'd say that was a good deal for both of you.
wink.png


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ah, but I knew that you would understand that part without me saying it. You can't leave out that Mom was able to fuss at me while I was working as well.

Oh by the way Fred, thanks for the viscosity lesson. Good Stuff. As usual.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oil change where I work: 1/2 hour labor $41.00, 4 qts. barrel oil at $4.95 a quart = 19.80, Yamaha oil filter $11 or 12 bucks, comes out to $71.80. Shop fees add a couple of more bucks.

 
Top