A detailed pictorial clutch soak "how to"

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Excellent write up.

I will be doing this soon I hope.

1) I assume you ordered your gasket ahead of time. Most likely not a dealer item.

2) You said you cleaned and wiped the back pressure plate. Did you then oil it before installing the rest of the friction plates?

3) I assume you kept the oil on the friction plates when reinstalling?

4) What kind of oil was that you used?

Sorry for the dumb questions.

Dave

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Excellent write up.

I will be doing this soon I hope.

1) I assume you ordered your gasket ahead of time. Most likely not a dealer item.
From my usual dealer. I was lucky, he had one in stock. Possibly left over from when I'd asked him to do a soak for me? Or is that too cynical?

2) You said you cleaned and wiped the back pressure plate. Did you then oil it before installing the rest of the friction plates?
Don't think I actually said that, maybe someone else's write-up? However I did clean it as well as all the metal plates and surfaces (in my case, very little congealed gunk). No need to oil any of the metal surfaces since plenty of oil on all the friction surfaces.

3) I assume you kept the oil on the friction plates when reinstalling?
Apart from what dripped off or was left on my fingers.

4) What kind of oil was that you used?
I had some motorcycle specific 10-40 (or some such) left over from my Trophy days. So long as it's oil intended for an internal combustion engine, of about the right grade (5 anything up to anything 50) and has no friction modifiers, it really doesn't matter. I have no doubt the clutch will work satisfactorily with almost any grade, and It will be diluted into the main engine oil eventually anyway.

Anyone commenting further about the oil type will cause this to become an Oil Thread, so please don't, or it'll be destined for NEPRT
skull.gif
.

Sorry for the dumb questions.

Dave
You'd be dumb not to ask if you don't know
smile.gif
.

 
Wanted to let others know my experience with this, but first and again, Big Thanks to mcatrophy and all others that have contributed to make this easier for all of us!!

My 08 has never really been a "problem", has always shifted pretty smoothly, especially after some new mobil x4t. But when teaching an ARC (formerly the ERC) for the MSF and being in the "clutch control lane", I noticed a kind of clunking noise ea time I let the clutch out to the friction zone and also that it didn't have much "play" in the friction zone.

So with new gasket in hand and this thread for reference (and mcatrohpys great pictures!), apart it all comes.

Sure enough, all the plates but the 2 outer ones are dry. Nothing looked burned or anything, so just soaked the friction plates over night and didn't do anything to the clutch plates. Everything went pretty smoothly, but as others have said, that little metal bracket used to hold the idle adjustment cable can be a nuisance. I didn't realize mine had fallen behind the clutch cover and it got a little bent before I realized it. Had to loosen a little and pull it out of there.

The results for me are a little surprising. First, it really seems as though the clutch is now starting to get into the friction zone farther out then before. Which is great! I always thought it was way too close to the grip before. It seems to be almost half way out now!

And also, there's much more of a "friction zone" then there was before. I mean, it wasn't like there was none, but it was a very little bit. It was usable, but it's not like it is now. Now there's quite a bit more travel in this important area. I'd say it's like a 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch now, where before it seemed to be about a 1/4 of an inch. I've not really made any measurements here, kind of seat of the pants measurements. But I can certainly feel a difference!

I'd honestly recommend it to people even if you don't feel you have a problem. My guess is they ALL have dry clutches...

 
I am having a very hard time getting out the last plate and disk. I am using hooks to grab it but it seems very stuck. Has anybody had this problem?

 
I am having a very hard time getting out the last plate and disk. I am using hooks to grab it but it seems very stuck. Has anybody had this problem?
Mine came out with no difficulty other than needing the hooks to get hold of them, no different from any of the others.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
IMG_0430.jpg
IMG_0426.jpg


Once I put my glasses on I could see a small retaining wire that holds in the last plate and disk. Also, the spacer ring now has out side stamped on it. Maybe 09's are a little different.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
...Once I put my glasses on I could see a small retaining wire that holds in the last plate and disk. Also, the spacer ring now has out side stamped on it. Maybe 09's are a little different.
Those are definite differences, changed after the '08 (not in billfjr's post "[/size]08 FJR R&R clutch plates clutch soaking and comments"). Can you describe exactly where this wire retainer was, or better still photograph it in situ (or being placed in situ)? That would help others when they try this.

Also, could I "borrow" your pictures to add to mine, again to help anyone else who looks at my procedure (I get a lot of hits on my procedure, so many are interested
smile.gif
)?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is a link to my Barnett Replacement. Barnett Clutch Pack

It does list the spring retainer number, and when I did it I was not expecting it. Never heard it mentioned. I did replace mine as I am fussy and felt I abused it so I bought a new one.

I also noticed only the first and last plate wet, the others were close to dry. Not sure but from the sounds of it this is what most find when going in the clutch basket. I have never seen a "wet" clutch this dry and suspect it is what everyone sees.

I put most of my thoughts into the posted thread but I know I love the feel of the clutch and it has excellent gray area control which I use quite a bit.

 
...

Once I put my glasses on I could see a small retaining wire that holds in the last plate and disk. Also, the spacer ring now has out side stamped on it. Maybe 09's are a little different.
Those are definite differences, changed after the '08 (not in billfjr's post "08 FJR R&R clutch plates clutch soaking and comments").

Can you describe exactly where this wire retainer was, or better still photograph it in situ (or being placed in situ)? That would help others when they try this.

Also, could I "borrow" your pictures to add to mine, again to help anyone else who looks at my procedure (I get a lot of hits on my procedure, so many are interested
smile.gif
)?
Yes I wish I would have taken a picture with the wire still in place. It was very hard to see though as it was all the way down inside the clutch holding in the last plate and disk. I couldn't even see until I put my glasses on. Plus it is not listed in the 06 manual I have.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is a link to my Barnett Replacement. Barnett Clutch Pack

...
Unfortunately some of your pictures seem to be lost.

...

Once I put my glasses on I could see a small retaining wire that holds in the last plate and disk. Also, the spacer ring now has out side stamped on it. Maybe 09's are a little different.
Those are definite differences, changed after the '08 (not in billfjr's post "08 FJR R&R clutch plates clutch soaking and comments").

Can you describe exactly where this wire retainer was, or better still photograph it in situ (or being placed in situ)? That would help others when they try this.

Also, could I "borrow" your pictures to add to mine, again to help anyone else who looks at my procedure (I get a lot of hits on my procedure, so many are interested
smile.gif
)?
Yes I wish I would have taken a picture with the wire still in place. It was very hard to see though as it was all the way down inside the clutch holding in the last plate and disk. I couldn't even see until I put my glasses on. Plus it is not listed in the 06 manual I have.
I've put your pictures onto my pictorial, thanks; also a parts diagram that shows the spring (linky).

 
Can I add another thanks here? I just came from my garage where I was going through your pictures one at a time (that I've already been through a dozen times at least) and followed right along and currently have plates soaking. Reassembly tomorrow with test ride.

I've had a little hurky jerky on a cold engine getting going in first with my AE. Learned of the clutch soak treatment from member cruppelt so I starte searching and was glad I came upon this. One thing I noticed is it's real easy to see which are wet and which are dry. The wet ones stick to each other. First two clutch and friction plates came out as one unit and I had to slide them apart. Definitely wet. The rest came out singly, definitely dry. Boo!

Couple of things I figured out in the process. I wasn't comfortable just leaving the engine open overnight, so its' got some saran wrap covering the opening. :D Second, I use first aid gloves working on this stuff. I cut the pinkie off my right glove and worked all fancy like with my pinkie sticking away from the work. This meant I could work the laptop touchpad with my pinkie to move to next slides and also to work my phone when I felt I needed a photo of something before I removed it. :D

Thanks again, please don't let those images die out there, they were a huge help and much appreciated.

 
How long does this 'treatment' last? My 09 does not seem to have any issues but after reading a bit on possible conditions that this might help I do have the almost immediate clutch take-up that I came across in another thread. I thought it was a product of the shaft drive but perhaps not. Certainly this is an easy enough thing to do so I am considering it but am curious how long it should be expected to last and why is it necessary in the first place if the FJR has a wet clutch system? I assume it's simply because enough oil dos not circulate through there? Sorry if that's a stupid question or already been covered a thousand times elsewhere.

 
Not sure how long it lasts or how often it needs to be done. But yea, seems not enough oil gets there so there'll likely be some dry plates.

I got her all reassembled today. I cannot stress enough how helpful the pictures and writeup was in this thread. I can't seem to do any major maintenance or mods without breaking something or throwing a tool across the garage. Aside from missing the clutch cover bolt with my allen key (didn't seat it properly) and putting a scratch or two in my clutch cover, it went very very smoothly. Thanks again.

 
Here's an interesting thought: How many times have we heard, "Don't use certain engine oils, they'll make the clutch slip." Really? Seems like the clutch gets very little oil on it. Makes me wonder if the oil issue is even a factor for an FJR.

Gary

darksider #44

 
Last edited by a moderator:
...

Thanks again, please don't let those images die out there, they were a huge help and much appreciated.
I'll try not to. They're all on my own web site. Even after the catastrophic failure of one of its discs last week, my IT specialist (otherwise known as my son) and I were able to resurrect the server.

Picture of server with lots of discs to re-create all the data.

(Click on image for larger view)



Take a newer PC case, power supply and mother-board, add a newer disc, format it and install Linux, Apache and PHP (as well as all sorts of other stuff that seems necessary), temporarily couple it up with the good disc from the original RAID'd pair, add in another disc to increase the capacity, stir well and hope for the best. TaDA! We're up and running again
yahoo.gif
. This is temporary until we've decided on the architecture for all of the computers and back-up mechanisms in the house, then it'll be re-done more securely.

All the images are backed up separately from this as well. Do not fear. And, OK, I'm getting on a bit (well, a lot), but I am leaving him my site in my will.

How long does this 'treatment' last?

...
As far as I am aware, this is a one-off treatment.

...

I cannot stress enough how helpful the pictures and writeup was in this thread.

... it went very very smoothly. Thanks again.
Glad to be of help.

Here's an interesting thought: How many times have we heard, "Don't use certain engine oils, they'll make the clutch slip." Really? Seems like the clutch gets very little oil on it. Makes me wonder if the oil issue is even a factor for an FJR.

...
If there is oil between the plates, I think it probably wicks more oil through as it's splashed around. Still, if you want to try a slippery oil, we might all learn something
smile.gif
.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Old thread, I haven't ridden much lately (too hot) so when I went out for a quick ride, the clutch wouldn't dis-engage smoothly. Did the clutch soak and got the dreaded "SH-26" on reassembly. So back into it to do a more careful assembly. On removing the clutch cover again, heard a klinking and discovered the left hand dowel pin was missing. Can't find it anywhere.

Am I ******? If it fell into the sump, will it rattle around harmlessly or is it likely to get picked up by something and grenade the engine?

 
An update, took it all apart and reassembled again. No error code now, looks good. An interesting assembly data point, the clutch could turn when it was assembled incorrectly, it was tight when assembled the right way.

What is the torque values of the six spring bolts?

 
Top