A detailed pictorial clutch soak "how to"
- Thread starter mcatrophy
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BwanaDik
Well-known member
Bump. I seem to recall someone fishing around with a magnet with some success. Anyone remember where that post was?
RossKean
Well-known member
I remember that as well.
Gazza dropped a bolt that was retrieved
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/127440-clutch-soak-gone-wronghelp/?hl= magnet dowel
superfuzz dropped a cut-off wrench and found a missing dowel pin while he was at it!!
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/145901-epic-fk-up-now-what/page-4?hl=%2B%2Bmagnet+%2B%2Bdowel&do=findComment&comment=967349
BwanaDik
Well-known member
Great links, thanks. Flexi magnet from Grainger is in sight, along with a boatload of patience.
maffud
Well-known member
Reviving this old thread again to voice my appreciation to mcatrophy for the excellent, detailed write-up.
I had been having issues shifting down from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd, especially, but all downshifts had been difficult at times. I wasn't too optimistic that it would correct my issues, but I figured it was cheap and easy enough to try the clutch soak as a first attempt.
I completed the job yesterday, after leaving the clutch plates (including the spacers) to soak in regular motor oil overnight. I took the bike out for a test ride, and I had no issues at all with the shifting. In fact, I would have to say that the transmission was shifting more smoothly than it ever has before. This is an '06 that I have had since 2008.
A note on my experience:
The first time I started the motor after re-assembly, I could not pull the clutch lever. I shifted into 1st from neutral with the motor running, and it stalled, so I figured something was very wrong. I started disassembly, again.
Before all of the bolts were out of the clutch cover, I tried the lever again, and it seemed to work fine. I also realized that the side stand was down, so OF COURSE it would stall when I put it into gear! So I stopped disassembly and put it all back together again.
This time, it seemed to work fine. The transmission sounded very clunky going through the gears on the centerstand, but there was no sticking. I decided to go ahead with the test ride, and I am glad I did.
I did not use the new gasket that I had purchased in advance. The old one looked fine, and since there's almost no oil in the clutch chamber, I figured there was very little chance of any noticeable leaking even if the seal were not perfect.
10/10, would recommend.
I had been having issues shifting down from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd, especially, but all downshifts had been difficult at times. I wasn't too optimistic that it would correct my issues, but I figured it was cheap and easy enough to try the clutch soak as a first attempt.
I completed the job yesterday, after leaving the clutch plates (including the spacers) to soak in regular motor oil overnight. I took the bike out for a test ride, and I had no issues at all with the shifting. In fact, I would have to say that the transmission was shifting more smoothly than it ever has before. This is an '06 that I have had since 2008.
A note on my experience:
The first time I started the motor after re-assembly, I could not pull the clutch lever. I shifted into 1st from neutral with the motor running, and it stalled, so I figured something was very wrong. I started disassembly, again.
Before all of the bolts were out of the clutch cover, I tried the lever again, and it seemed to work fine. I also realized that the side stand was down, so OF COURSE it would stall when I put it into gear! So I stopped disassembly and put it all back together again.
This time, it seemed to work fine. The transmission sounded very clunky going through the gears on the centerstand, but there was no sticking. I decided to go ahead with the test ride, and I am glad I did.
I did not use the new gasket that I had purchased in advance. The old one looked fine, and since there's almost no oil in the clutch chamber, I figured there was very little chance of any noticeable leaking even if the seal were not perfect.
10/10, would recommend.
BwanaDik
Well-known member
Well, happy ending to a tragic story. Disassembled everything to get to the oil pan, headers, side stand, fairing, etc. Side stand bolts were frozen with corrosion, have to remove it to get to the pan. Soaked the area for two days in Aero-Kroll. The first bolt finally came out but I ultimately had to use an impact hammer, the second one totally stripped out the hex socket. Made a slotted head to use a drag link socket with an impact hammer but that too destroyed the rest of the bolt head. Got the bolt and the tool surprisingly hot too so I know I was getting my licks in! Finally drilled out the bolt and re-tapped the hole. I'm pretty sure some of the bolt is still left in there, frozen by corrosion, but it seems to be holding.
I did find the dowel pin though, so it was a worthwhile effort. It was hidden in a spot at the back of the pan behind a baffle. Probably would have never come loose except maybe if I was someplace near Orla, TX. And no chance at all of finding it with a magnet from the top.
A word to the future clutch soakers. Leave the bike on the center stand, not the side stand. It's easier to work on with it on the side stand but almost a guaranteed thing to lose something down into the internals if you drop anything. At least you've got a 50/50 chance of it falling out onto the floor if the bike is level.
I did find the dowel pin though, so it was a worthwhile effort. It was hidden in a spot at the back of the pan behind a baffle. Probably would have never come loose except maybe if I was someplace near Orla, TX. And no chance at all of finding it with a magnet from the top.
A word to the future clutch soakers. Leave the bike on the center stand, not the side stand. It's easier to work on with it on the side stand but almost a guaranteed thing to lose something down into the internals if you drop anything. At least you've got a 50/50 chance of it falling out onto the floor if the bike is level.
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Abercrombie FJR
Well-known member
I've been experiencing some very notchy up shifting particularly from first to second gear. Under hard acceleration shifting at higher rpms, its almost been scary sounding going into second. I followed your clutch soak and found the plates were dry as expected but didn't find the friction plates very built up with grime. I did scrub the little bit a found and soaked the plates over night finding the oil had become darker and discolored over night. When I reinstalled the clutch, I found improvement but its not what I was looking for. For some reason I've never replaced the clutch fluid on my 2014 so that is the next step and hope that will fully cure the problem. I guess I should've done that first since it would've been easiest of the two solutions.
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Steel_Gin
Well-known member
Just throwing this out there as something to consider. If you're going to do a clutch soak and you're not running on a tight budget, since you have the time invested in taking it apart what about installing a slipper clutch? I don't know if you can do that to a Gen I but it's doable on a Gen II. From what I have read it solves the clutch plate sticking issue, gives you an easier pull and you have a good chance of never having to open it up again.
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odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
I thought about performing this procedure a year or so ago because my clutch was sticking and becoming a problem at stop lights. One day coming into work I was shifting to a lower gear when I heard a strange pop from my clutch lever. It was still activating the clutch but even more poorly then previous. Once I got to work I took a look at the lever and noticed the holder of the pin ball (with a hole in it) had broken in half. The lever was barely pushing the clutch pin and only at full lever compression.
So, I ordered a new lever for 20 bucks online. I noticed the new lever only had one hole for the clutch actuating pin. My old broken lever had a hole for the pin but also another hole on the other side of where the pin goes in. So, for two or so years my clutch actuating pin has been just sliding through my lever and not actuating the clutch until about full compression.
Taking her for a spin the clutch now works as soon as I start pulling on it. Not at full compression with a death grip.
So, if you are having clutch sticking issues, take a quick peek at your lever and make sure that there is no exit hole for the actuating pin.
So, I ordered a new lever for 20 bucks online. I noticed the new lever only had one hole for the clutch actuating pin. My old broken lever had a hole for the pin but also another hole on the other side of where the pin goes in. So, for two or so years my clutch actuating pin has been just sliding through my lever and not actuating the clutch until about full compression.
Taking her for a spin the clutch now works as soon as I start pulling on it. Not at full compression with a death grip.
So, if you are having clutch sticking issues, take a quick peek at your lever and make sure that there is no exit hole for the actuating pin.
Excellent point about making R&R PM for the levers and removable bushing a part of your (semi)annual maint routine.
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