LAF
Well-known member
That is correct for my wheel, they are there and the ABS Magnet is installed behind the oil seal dust cover with three screws holding it in place.
A Friday Ride Gone Bad
- Thread starter LAF
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
LAF
Well-known member
To me this ends the discussion on repair or replace.
ScottyUSN
Well-known member
Yes sir!
wheatonFJR
...
Tree Doc
Well-known member
Any word on how Progressive is handling the claim?
majicmaker
Well-known member
Yeah Man! With that crack, it's Done. Look on the bright side, new rim will give you all sorts of peace of mind!
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Stick a fork in it...that one's done! Good luck with the parts and repair.
--G
--G
LAF
Well-known member
They really are the best! I got the full price of everything on the quote, added in the tow, and less my 250 deductible.
As Scotty said they are just great to deal with and no hassle. He did not have his checks with him so I should have it Tuesday.
He said to make sure I had the axle checked for true, and the fork seals, and if any issue call and he would get the check cut for those items.
While still an unwanted, unneeded, issue in life it really has been low stress.
The biggest issue is the waiting on parts and being sure of the wheel fitment.
RossKean
Well-known member
+1 on the fork seals and axle. I would probably want to have a look at the suspension bushings too. Might want to have the steering bearings checked out while you are at it. Its only one deductable charge for the incident.
Nothing worse than a bike that is just "OK" when it should still be GREAT.
Ross
Nothing worse than a bike that is just "OK" when it should still be GREAT.
Ross
Tree Doc
Well-known member
LAF
Well-known member
Check came in yesterdays mail, that was fast.I expected this to be the case but was curious. Have they deemed the incident a "Zero Fault" claim because of the object in the road? That's what happened with my 2 deer get off.
Darn, looks like your fork will need to be sent out for a complete overhaul and cartridge upgrade!
I am "at fault" so will see what it does to my rates. I guess because I should be in control of my vehicle when inanimate objects are concerned. They have been so low that I am not too worried.
I already did my forks with springs from Traxxion and new rear shock, and wish I could send them the forks for the valves but not this year. Have to settle for the new Nolan N-104, Lifetime Maps for the 660, Russel Day Long Set, and getting the wheel/tire done. Enough bleeding of money for the time being
tyronewildman
Real Old Guy
LAF, on your parts list, I didn't see the bearing spacer (about $15) that keeps the inner races seperated corectly. You maybe are planning on useing the old one, which is O K. When pressing in the second bearing (you do press against the outer race, right?) make sure that you can turn the bearings freely and that you can slide the spacer back & forth between the bearings without needing a lot of force. If you can't stick a screwdriver thru a bearing and move the spacer without a lot of force, then the bearing recesses were not cut the correct depth and/or you used to much force pressing the bearings in. I've seen both on cast wheels and I check this when changing tires. Glad you are O K,,, De...
Tree Doc
Well-known member
LAF
Well-known member
Well after calling and sending e-mail to my Senator and my Representative from my district, I went to work on the wheel.
First a pic of new and old wheel.
Not only did I take pics of everything but also blue taped right and left and orientation to valve stem.
Also note the magnetic sensor came on the new wheel and is under that cover in the center and is how it is shipped. Perhaps something to do with the wide variety of wheel numbers out there?
I also noticed the machining goes to a concave slope after the seat for the bearing. I measured with my micrometer the old bearing reveal and it varied from .279 to .286 on both sides with no rhyme or reason. I was a bit concerned but moved forward.
I then heated the right side and pulled the bearing out of the freezer and it dropped right in. I checked the reveal and again while better it still varied .279 to .285. Now I may have messed up but I was afraid to heat the magnetic sensor on the wheel so I removed it and even brand new they were a bitch. Heated it up, dropped the lightly greased bearing spacer in, the bearing from the freezer and again it dropped right in. I used a socket to make sure it was seated after it cooled down and it was fine. The spacer did move as in the old wheel so I figured I was done.
I installed the magnetic sensor, and since they are open ended holes I used a lot of blue locktite and it did come out the back side. The old had a yellow substance on them.
I then installed the rotors with enough blue locktite but not too much as I did not want to hydro break out any holes on a new rim.
Then I got the Mark Parnes out and did my thing. It only took 14 grams to static balance.
So then it was to this, done!
A quick ride revealed no issues and a smooth running tire up to 75 mph. Interesting the 45 MPH deceleration no hands shake is not present as it was on the original 021, and the PR2 I put on at 1900 miles. Of course it was 32 and it was only a few miles but I detected no issues.
Not too bad, heat and cold made it a breeze to install the bearings, and heat to the rotor bolts made removal very easy.
I wish this on nobody, but not a bad deal at all to do. Still not sure on why you need to torque the pinch bolts in the order they call for on the forks for the axle?
I took 400 grit to the axle, the spacer, and center to outside on the rotors. Like cleaning a CD, never around, from the inside out. Not a lot but enough to clean them up. The rotors had no discernible ridges or gouges so I did not do them hard at all, but figured it will help the pads find their way bedding in again.
All in all I think I am fine again, may have to aim my Moto Lights but minor issue for sure.
Well a Friday Gone Bad Made Right.
First a pic of new and old wheel.
Not only did I take pics of everything but also blue taped right and left and orientation to valve stem.
Also note the magnetic sensor came on the new wheel and is under that cover in the center and is how it is shipped. Perhaps something to do with the wide variety of wheel numbers out there?
I also noticed the machining goes to a concave slope after the seat for the bearing. I measured with my micrometer the old bearing reveal and it varied from .279 to .286 on both sides with no rhyme or reason. I was a bit concerned but moved forward.
I then heated the right side and pulled the bearing out of the freezer and it dropped right in. I checked the reveal and again while better it still varied .279 to .285. Now I may have messed up but I was afraid to heat the magnetic sensor on the wheel so I removed it and even brand new they were a bitch. Heated it up, dropped the lightly greased bearing spacer in, the bearing from the freezer and again it dropped right in. I used a socket to make sure it was seated after it cooled down and it was fine. The spacer did move as in the old wheel so I figured I was done.
I installed the magnetic sensor, and since they are open ended holes I used a lot of blue locktite and it did come out the back side. The old had a yellow substance on them.
I then installed the rotors with enough blue locktite but not too much as I did not want to hydro break out any holes on a new rim.
Then I got the Mark Parnes out and did my thing. It only took 14 grams to static balance.
So then it was to this, done!
A quick ride revealed no issues and a smooth running tire up to 75 mph. Interesting the 45 MPH deceleration no hands shake is not present as it was on the original 021, and the PR2 I put on at 1900 miles. Of course it was 32 and it was only a few miles but I detected no issues.
Not too bad, heat and cold made it a breeze to install the bearings, and heat to the rotor bolts made removal very easy.
I wish this on nobody, but not a bad deal at all to do. Still not sure on why you need to torque the pinch bolts in the order they call for on the forks for the axle?
I took 400 grit to the axle, the spacer, and center to outside on the rotors. Like cleaning a CD, never around, from the inside out. Not a lot but enough to clean them up. The rotors had no discernible ridges or gouges so I did not do them hard at all, but figured it will help the pads find their way bedding in again.
All in all I think I am fine again, may have to aim my Moto Lights but minor issue for sure.
Well a Friday Gone Bad Made Right.
Very nice work! I am quite impressed by your attention to details. I'm positive that you are now good to go and this whole thing is now all behind you.
Thanks for keeping us informed along your little journey.
This is exactly the kind of stuff that makes this forum so worthwhile. :thumbsup:
Thanks for keeping us informed along your little journey.
This is exactly the kind of stuff that makes this forum so worthwhile. :thumbsup:
carlson_mn
Well-known member
nice work!
majicmaker
Well-known member
Outstanding Job LAF! :assassin: All things considered, New is Always better than Repaired!
bucky
Well-known member
check out Portland Oregon craigslist. There is a listing for parting out a 06 fjr. tire/wheel combo, front or rear for $150 each. Not a bad deal, even for a spare for someone to keep, assuming the wheel is good.
LAF
Well-known member
Yes a great deal.
All I can say on my adventure is make sure you are getting the correct wheel. Mine is covered in a bunch of models, A, AE, and some other designations I have no clue what they meant but only 08-10 model years. Not sure of the 11's, I did not look.
If I was rich I would have spares just to change tires out at leisure, but that is not an option for me.
If I had the bike year and they were in good shape I would buy them, ship them directly to a wheel truer and call it a day. Maybe even do the bearings in each one and it still would be in the range for what I gave for a new front wheel alone. Of course rotors may get a bit salty to put on them :-(
Similar threads
