Abrupt Slow Speed Turn-In

[Bill Lumberg]

This. It requires more force on the bars at low speed maeuvering than some other bikes. I had to increase front preload a bit, but that wasn't so much for low speed as just overall. As Twigg notes- it's not going to surpise you at low speed. I can easily U turn on a narrow road or turn around inside two parking spaces. I think the FJR feels so much lighter than it is at moderate and high speed that those really slow times can make it seem more pondorous than it is.

It's a heavy bike and to many, especially those raised on cruisers, it can feel top-heavy at times. This is something that would normally only manifest itself at low speeds. Once the speed rises the FJR is a very stable platform, again in contrast with many cruisers.
There are a bunch of bike which, while all different, have a few characteristics in common. ST1300, FJR1300, Honda Blackbird, Suzuki Hayabusa ... Fast, heavyweight sports-tourers all tend to be rock-solid continent crossers, yet can pose the odd problem in the parking lot. Personally my previous bike was a Yamaha Venture Royale, so the FJR felt like a lightweight

What I am taking a long time saying is that the low-speed handling is a feature, rather than a fault but can be made much worse by tired suspension, poor tires, wrong pressures, inexperience .... it's a long list.

By the way, motorcycle tires are notoriously poor in terms of quality control, so don't assume you have a good set even if they are fairly new.

It is worth noting that finding somewhere to practise and gain confidence was very good advice. The FJR can feel a bit like a lumbering wildebeest in a hotel parking lot, but it is very predictable holds few surprises.

 

[Bounce]

I've done the slow speed courses and competition stuff. I try to keep up with that skill on my FJR and found the biggest problem was I OWN IT! Once I got beyond the preverbal "buck stops with me" business, the bike was surprisingly responsive and did fine. I can go lock to lock and do a figure 8 in 4 standard parking stalls which is a measurement I use for maintaining my skills. I dont drag the rear brake but I do slide over on the seat and use the engine revs, (with clutch engaged), to bring the bike back up.

Good point. The last ERS course I took, I removed the bags and was doing the "S-turn" drill inside the smaller squares marked off for the BRC 250cc bikes. Could I have done that the first BRC course I took? No way... I was on a Gold Wing. Of course, I took off the bags and set them to the side of the course before starting... just in case.

 

[Bounce]

Once the larger issues are addressed (steering head bearing, tire PSI, familiarity with the design) the finer tuning may come into play.

The profile of the tire carcass makes a difference in handling too, What someone prefers is often based on their background. The triangle shape of some tires causes the bike to turn quicker in exchange for a little twitchier straight-like performance. A tire with a consistent radius may turn in more slowly but tends to also track without the concern for as light a touch.

 

[Rexford]

Once the larger issues are addressed (steering head bearing, tire PSI, familiarity with the design) the finer tuning may come into play.
The profile of the tire carcass makes a difference in handling too, What someone prefers is often based on their background. The triangle shape of some tires causes the bike to turn quicker in exchange for a little twitchier straight-like performance. A tire with a consistent radius may turn in more slowly but tends to also track without the concern for as light a touch.

No slop or play in the ft end.... tire is starting to get a little flat in the center (lots of flat land here in the Dallas-Ft. Worth metromess). It's not a problem for me at all and I do love riding this bike. Just something more for me to work on and learn...!

Again, thank you all for the answers and insight. Now to figure out which tires to go to....

I bet that conversation has been discussed here...! Probably as much as....wait for it........ oil

Have a great evening guys,

Rexford

 

[Jakzen]

I have the Metzlers on mine and like them. I find that the bike handles about as well as my VTX1300 did at low speeds. The difference that I've noticed is that the FJR is a bit more top heavy. My theory? Just ride it.

 

[Bounce]

I went with the Mich PRs because of the constant radius of the curve in their profile. Some others prefer "pointer" profiles for quicker turn in but I found them more abrupt when initiating a corner and twitchier in the straights; the things they liked about the design.

 

[Big Sky]

I agree with Bounce here. A set of Dunlops I used quite a few years ago behaved as he describes, probably due to a more triangular profile: tip-in was quick and light, but the bike hunted and wandered and required constant input in the straight-line stuff...not to mention wore out in the centers quickly.

 

[FJR Bill]

New tires definitely help in low-speed riding. The FJR is a lot of things, but a fun around-town nimble bike it is not. When I 'upgraded' from my bandit 1200 to the FJR, I was honestly a little disappointed with the handling at first as I rode it around town breaking it in. Out on the road you figure out what it's really good at--hauling the mail from medium to go to jail speeds, twisty or straight--all day long

Good post. Exactly what I experienced going from my Bandit to the FJR. I'm short of leg so I'm a bit ponderous in slow maneuvering. But I ain't dropped it yet in 45,000 miles. Just have to be careful and plan ahead in parking situations.

Bill

 

[JamesW]

Make sure you are looking farther ahead to where you want to go instead of down.

 

[rwortman]

Mine has a tad bit of what some call the "chopper flop". With correct tire pressure it is minimized but the amount of trail in the fork makes it try to increase the steering angle at low speeds. Once you initiate a slow turn, it needs a touch of opposite pressure to hold. Most cruisers do it something awful. This does it just a little. My other bikes not at all. After a few miles your brain gets programmed and you don't really pay it any mind.

 

[Barn Boy]

All great replys...., What I am gathering is that it is the nature of the beast at slow speeds. But as Spud wrote....it do haul and is fun in the twisties. I was not complaining as such, just wanted an experienced opinion on the slow speed handleing.
Have a great evening guys....

Rexford

You might want to check your tire contours. Last July I was fortunate to find a 2005 with 6,500 miles on it. A gentleman had set it up for his retiirement fun and after a couple of years he had to hang up his helmet. Sat around for a few years then a friend of his son got the bike.

When I got it I aired the tires to the recommended levels. It had the OEM Metzlers on it and the tread was good. In a straight line it was good but in a slow turn it felt like it was going to keep going over once you got it in a leaned in position. I thought that maybe the bike was more than my old body could handle, weight and balance wise. The next time I fueled it up I happened to see the front tire when it was leaned towards me. It looked like this: (learning how to post pictures here) maybe later.

The front tire almost came to a peak at the center of the tire and the back tire also had a very weird contour to it. I immediately ordered a set of Micheleins for it and it became a totally different and enjoyable riding experience. My local Yamaha service manager said that the prior owner rode it under inflated and had worn the tire abnormally. When I inflated them to spec, the tires took on a very strange shape that had a very definite and narrow balance point.

Lay a straight edge on the center of the front tire and see what it looks like. Narrow contact patch = No Good!

Ride Safe

Barn Boy

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Mine requires quite a bit of pressure on the inside bar during low speed turns. A lot. I wander (pun intended) if I need to increase preload further. Still chasing that neutral feel I get on other bikes. All good suggestions. Trying to hold out and get a few more miles out of my OEM before replacing. I know the OEM is squirelly. Riding 2 days on 20 lbs certainly can't help a bargain basement bridgestone.

 

[CopB8]

I've owned an FJR since 2003, a 2004 and 2013, and I agree with the OP. The bike definitely wants to 'flop' into very slow speed corners if you don't manhandle the bars a bit. I'm not saying I can't handle the situation and I'm able maneuver the bike anywhere I want it to go at any speed. I'm just saying it takes more effort on the FJR than my Super Tenere or the GSA 1200 I rented in Europe. Those bikes are very neutral at extremely slow speeds. They defy their weight. That said, they can't hold a candle to the FJR when the speeds increase the the roads start to twist. At moderate to high speeds the FJR is a rock.

 

[FJR Bill]

Took me 40,000 miles to discover this. But damn near dropped the bike in a tight slow speed turn. Put my leg down,pushed the bars, added some throttle and pulled out. It's real, just be aware of it, that's 90 percent of prevention.

Bil

 

[ApexGT]

I learned a long time ago for very slow speed maneuvering ,to ride the rear brake and keep the drive train loaded, modulate the rear brake to control movements.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I'm quite good at low speed handling. But my 14 FJR fought me every step of the way. Then I replaced the factory tires with PR2's, and it became a neutral, much easier to maneuver bike at low speed.

All great replys...., What I am gathering is that it is the nature of the beast at slow speeds. But as Spud wrote....it do haul and is fun in the twisties. I was not complaining as such, just wanted an experienced opinion on the slow speed handleing.
Have a great evening guys....

Rexford