Does anyone know if the rebound valve from RT is necessary? With my last bike I didn't need to install one and the fork worked incredibly well.
Upgrading the springs on the FJR will require one or two things to take place - Change oil weight to heavier type (not good for the compression side even when revalved) or change the rebound valve assembly.
I just got a quote from Max for the Axxion compression valve, rebound valve, springs, seals, oil... for $799.00, or the AK20 cartridge for $1000. While that's pricey, I imagine close to half that cost is labor.
Here's the breakdown:
compression valve assemblies (includes in-house machined and hard-coat anodized pistons and holders) - $200
rebound valve assemblies (includes in-house SS machined holders and anodized pistons) - $225
TD OMNI springs - $109.95
TD OMNI spring buffer kit - $14.95
Maxima Synthetic Cartridge Fork oil 125/150 (7 wt) - $12.45 per Qt. - Included
Fork Seals - $24.95
Bushings not included, but if needed are $14.95 each.
Labor - $200-$225 depending on the job and what is required during the install.
Labor includes - full disassembly with a thorough cleaning and inspection of all parts and components. Measuring fork tubes for straightness, polishing the tubes so they look like no human hand ever touched them (like new), inspection of OEM cartridge bodies, cartridge rods and cartridge bushings, reassembly with new valves and holders, cut spacers precisely so there is the proper amount of internal spring preload for the springs and the weight of the motorcycle. Setup and test forks to insure rebound and compression valving is working properly, adjust dampers and spring external preload for riding style/purpose of motorcycle and weight of rider. All of this is approximately 3 + hours of work for an experienced tech.
I've done all of this to at least 100 sets of forks in the past 2 years, and I know it isn't easy or "quick" work. When the forks are returned to the customer, they work worlds better than when new and look as good as new unless they arrived at the shop in poor condition already. We do our best to make them like new in those cases.
Now, what are the other shops doing for your $600 or less worth of work? Like I've said before, you get what you pay for.
Sorry if I appear upset but after doing this kind of work for nearly 2 years, and learning how the "experts" do it I realized it is worth every penny to have it done correctly and by someone that truely cares about the final results. I learned how there are 100 + ways to damage the cartridges during disassembly or assembly and you wouldn't even know you did it. The customer would know it, with the poor performance. Proper tools, attention to detail, experience in working with the sometimes delicate components, knowing how to leak check valve assemblies etc, etc. There is a lot to know about this stuff and I quickly learned how much there is to know about it. I had been wrenching and tuning on motorcycles and cars (when I had to) for over 30 years before I ever went to work for Max.
Sure, all of the above could be done by someone good with their hands, tools and also knows what to look for and how to handle the components. Don't believe for a minute though that it's simple stuff and it will forgive you should you make a mistake. A simple thing like knowing how and where to clamp the cartridge body so the compression valve assembly can be unthreaded from it or how and where to clamp the cartridge rod so the rebound valve assembly could be removed from it are not so simple things. I've seen evidence of other techs working on those same parts (from older race bikes) and I know they caused damage to those parts because they either didn't care what they were doing or didn't know the correct procedure.
All I'm trying to say here is be very careful when you try to save yourself some $$. You may or may not get exactly what you've paid for. :bigeyes: