Bar end weights removal. How?

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raven09

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I'm trying to remove the bar end weights on my '15 ES to install some hand guards, but they seem to be secured with a pretty strong thread locker. I've tried applying heat to the securing bolts using an heat gun, soldering iron, even a candle lighter flame without success. I don't want to apply too much torque to avoid damaging the rubber damping assembly inside the bars nor using too much heat to melt anything. Is there a better way to accomplish this? It has become pretty frustrating.

Has anyone been able to do this who kindly would like to share some tips? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 
This comes with a set of Throttlemiester bar ends. You put the tube, which is precisely sized and stepped inside, over the end of the handlebar and then use the bolt to pull the damper out of the bar and into the tube. You could make something similar. It will just take a little luck finding something with the right I.D.

37655087474_19bf9e5a31_b.jpg


Edit-Oops look like I answered a question you haven't asked-yet?

On my Gen2 parts there are no signs of threadlock. Who added the threadlock, Yamaha or the PO? If it was the PO, and he used Red Locktite, this could get interesting :( If it was Yamaha then the threadlock SHOULD be of the non-permanent type, so just cross your fingers and turn counterclockwise. I don't know how you'd get enough heat or penetrating oil all the way down to the threaded part or the damper.

Sorry to be of so little help in the end.

 
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If I read the OP right, he is trying to remove the bolts that hold the bar end weights on, rather than the flexible part inside. On both our 15's, I just used an L-shaped Allen key and a little bit of force. Did not need to put an extender on the wrench. There did not seem to be any Loctite on the bolts.

 
If I read the OP right, he is trying to remove the bolts that hold the bar end weights on, rather than the flexible part inside. On both our 15's, I just used an L-shaped Allen key and a little bit of force. Did not need to put an extender on the wrench. There did not seem to be any Loctite on the bolts.
Yes, I'm trying to remove the bar end weights bolts. When I apply force to unscrew them, and I've already used a pretty good amount, the whole bar end assembly is twisting instead of the bolt breaking loose. I would say it twisted even past 90 degrees. I'm not sure how much torque I can apply before start breaking things inside the bar. One solution may be to somehow hold the weights to prevent them from spinning but I'm not sure if it can be done without scratching them. I'm fairly sure that the weights haven't been removed before by the previous owner so they are being held in place by whatever it was used at the factory. When you removed yours, do you remember how much did the weights spin before the bolts broke loose?

 
Would using a strap-wrench on the bar ends to hold against the bolt torque work? I don't know anything about removing the bar end bolts from your model, just thought I would throw in the strap-wrench idea.

 
Insert your hex key and give it a sharp rap with a ball peen hammer.

Worked for me.

 
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I like the impact wrench idea. My favorite power tool is a Hitachi cordless drill/driver. As I recall, the part inside did slip a bit when slowly applying force to the wrench so I backed it off, then snapped my wrist to give an impact. Sort of like hitting it with a hammer. I did not have a set of impact-grade Allen drivers for the impact tool when I first took the weights off. Need to get a set.

I'm not sure if there is something in there that locks the bolt but it always tightens easily, then is hard to undo.

 
Sounds like the internal "nut" is spinning. It's a piss poor setup as far as I'm concerned but it probably saved Mama a few cents.

What i did (because i was/am an impatient phuck) was drill a 1/8 hole in the handlebar just behind the face of said nut and jammed a nail into the hole effectively stopping the sorry excuse for a good idea from spinning.

YMMV.

 
As K Flyer says, give it a good "snap" with your wrist and the bar-end bolt will loosen right up. I use a good Craftsman 4mm T-handle hex and haven't had problems. First time though is a bit disconcerting...

Good luck!

--G

 
Before you get too rough and end up damaging the the anchor bushing, consider drilling out the hex head of the bolt.

This will allow you to remove the existing bar-end and get a clear view of what is happening.

You should be able to grip the bolt with some mole grips (or whatever you call them), try turning and see what moves....

It should also be easy to apply heat direct to the bolt to release any thread lock.

 
If the bar end weights are OEM they have no thread lock applied. I removed them on 2007 and 2014 FJR's with no real difficulty. Are these after market weights? If yes, perhaps the OP used red loctite. Try wrapping the bar end weight with something to prevent damage and apply channel lock (vise grip) and then give the hex head stud a good brisk twist. If that does not work sell the bike!!

 
Would using a strap-wrench on the bar ends to hold against the bolt torque work? I don't know anything about removing the bar end bolts from your model, just thought I would throw in the strap-wrench idea.
I got a strap wrench from home depot and it worked. Thank you all for your suggestions.

 
Would using a strap-wrench on the bar ends to hold against the bolt torque work? I don't know anything about removing the bar end bolts from your model, just thought I would throw in the strap-wrench idea.
I got a strap wrench from home depot and it worked. Thank you all for your suggestions.
Any signs of thread lock?

 
Would using a strap-wrench on the bar ends to hold against the bolt torque work? I don't know anything about removing the bar end bolts from your model, just thought I would throw in the strap-wrench idea.
I got a strap wrench from home depot and it worked. Thank you all for your suggestions.
Any signs of thread lock?
There was no thread lock on the bolts. I may use some blue thread lock when I reinstall them.

 

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