Pulled my wheels last night for new skins and found the front axle was showing rust and had some minor metal-to-metal scuffing where the left side bearing resides. All was fine 5,600 miles ago when new rubber was last spooned on. The shop actually pulled and installed the wheels that time. The bearings and seals were replaced at about 34,000 due to bent wheels that were straightened. Bike now has 72,000. Seems I've had a seal failure and moisture apparently got in there and did its damage. The shop guy said he can polish the axle but it looks like we'll be installing new bearings and seals. My guess is the seal failed at the last tire change, or was damaged during the wheel's installation, because the last time I rode in any real rain was right after the new tires - a 10-day Colorado tour. I could sense nothing amiss from the front end and rode 800 miles last weekend. Glad the bearing didn't seize or break up at speed.
Bearing seal failure
- Thread starter Big Sky
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
The grease used in wheel bearings is not waterproof and will wash out over time. The seal protects the bearing from water that is splashed on it, and it keeps dirt out, but it is not a watertight seal. The only way to protect those bearings is to apply fresh grease every time you have the wheel off. Just rub a thin coat over the outside of the bearing to close the gap between the seal and bearing. I am talking about the seal that is part of the bearing assembly itself.
There is also a rubber seal that is pressed on outside of the bearing and forms a sort of seal around the axle spacer. You want to add some grease to the inside of that one, too to help it seal around the spacer.
And don't spray water directly on them when cleaning your bike.
There is also a rubber seal that is pressed on outside of the bearing and forms a sort of seal around the axle spacer. You want to add some grease to the inside of that one, too to help it seal around the spacer.
And don't spray water directly on them when cleaning your bike.
JamesK
Got to ride
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
Well, I have to admit it, I did wash my bike twice this year. 
I must be doing something wrong. My bike just gets dirtier after riding it in the rain.
I must be doing something wrong. My bike just gets dirtier after riding it in the rain. Yes, I had a good supply of bug goo spread all over the frontal area on last weekend's ride (been unseasonably warm here in Big Sky Country), but a little rain coming down the west side of Marias Pass cleaned it right up (well, way better than it was).
JamesK
Got to ride
Well you know what they say:Well, I have to admit it, I did wash my bike twice this year.
"Dirty bikes are like dirty girls......they are the most fun and have the best stories"
LAF
Well-known member
I need to ask this. At the rate the FJR eats tires wouldn't servicing the axle bolt and bearings at each tire change take care of this? I mean even with 0 miles when I removed my front wheel I cleaned the axle bolt and added grease to all areas that had it including the axle bolt. Even the dog bones when I installed the new Penske shock got a liberal dose of grease.
I don't pressure wash except in winter and then I make sure not to hit wheel bearings and brake pivot area and anything of that nature. Done it for 15 years. Really the only choice us Northern guys have so we can ride and keep the salt at bay.
I am just wondering if there is a better grease to use that is more water proof? I use good old fashioned NAPA wheel bearing grease. Is there a synthetic that will hold up better?
Is there better wheel bearings?
The last thing I need to worry about is bad wheel bearings and with the recent dog bone incident reported I am a little concerned.
I see this as maintenance issues not so much as a design issue from Yamaha. I guess since I change my own tires I have a slight advantage in inspecting and greasing these myself but is there something more to be done?
I don't pressure wash except in winter and then I make sure not to hit wheel bearings and brake pivot area and anything of that nature. Done it for 15 years. Really the only choice us Northern guys have so we can ride and keep the salt at bay.
I am just wondering if there is a better grease to use that is more water proof? I use good old fashioned NAPA wheel bearing grease. Is there a synthetic that will hold up better?
Is there better wheel bearings?
The last thing I need to worry about is bad wheel bearings and with the recent dog bone incident reported I am a little concerned.
I see this as maintenance issues not so much as a design issue from Yamaha. I guess since I change my own tires I have a slight advantage in inspecting and greasing these myself but is there something more to be done?
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
There is waterproof grease available. You have to clean out all of the original grease and replace it with the waterproof stuff. I'n not sure why wheel bearings don't come that way, but they don't. It is not difficult to lift the seals out of the wheel bearings and clean the old grease out but you have to be careful not to scratch anything or lose any of the balls. There were some posts by Jestal a few years back about this and he apparently did use waterproof grease.
Personally, I just use plenty of synthetic grease each time I change the tires.
LAF
Well-known member
Thank you for the reply. Not to go into synth dino debates but I assume I could just overuse synth grease on top of the dino and be ok? I mean I come from the days where we hand packed bearings. I am just wondering if I could force synth in each time wiping off excess and eventually have mostly synth left after a time or two? I guess depending on cost and how easy to get a puller on the wheels it may just be easier to pull them after a few years and repack the ones going in with waterproof and call it a day.
Not too worried about it as it seems there is not a lot of documentation on issues with the wheel bearings or dog bones.
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
Based solely on experience, I have used synthetic grease on top of whatever Yamaha puts in there from the factory with no problem. I use Valvoline synthetic grease because that's what I found on the shelf when I needed it.
If you do decide to try water proof grease or otherwise want to clean out all of the stuff that's already in the bearing you do not have to pull the bearings, just take the wheel off, gently pry the rubber outer seal off, and carefully work the seal off of the bearing assembly itself with a couple of small tools. I use spring hooks because I have an assortment of them, but small screwdrivers will probably work. You will find a formed piece of metal that holds the balls in place. They are not caged roller bearings like you find in the old automotive applications.
Gonzodog
Member
I'm pretty new here but not new to bikes. As far as I know, all wheel bearing greases (petroleum based or synthetic) are "waterproof" if that means incompatible with water. But, that's not the point.
The grease can't come out of of a bearing unless the seal is gone /worn out.
Right?
What is a non-waterproof grease anyway?
The grease can't come out of of a bearing unless the seal is gone /worn out.
Right?
What is a non-waterproof grease anyway?
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
Waterproof grease, like this Bel Ray states that it is water resistant, while this commonly used synthetic grease does not. I am not saying that synthetic disolves readily in water, but it will emulsify and wash out from repeated exposure.
If your seals are good and sealed well, they will keep the grease from washing out. But the seals alone do not provide a water tight seal. You need to refresh the grease around the seals to keep water and dirt from getting past the seals. The moisture and dirt will accumulate in that protective layer that you can easily wipe off and refresh at every tire change.
Last edited by a moderator:
Gonzodog
Member
Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease
High performance automotive grease
Product Description
Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease is an NLGI No 2 high-performance automotive grease which combines a synthetic base fluid with a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart optimum extreme-pressure properties and excellent resistance to water wash, and outstanding protection against rust and corrosion. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease has excellent structural stability. The synthetic base oil used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives it excellent performance properties at both high and low temperatures. High structural shear stability coupled with a high performance base oil make Mobil 1 Synthetic an outstanding automotive grease.
From the Mobile 1 site. Check the product data at the link above.
Just say'in
High performance automotive grease
Product Description
Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease is an NLGI No 2 high-performance automotive grease which combines a synthetic base fluid with a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart optimum extreme-pressure properties and excellent resistance to water wash, and outstanding protection against rust and corrosion. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease has excellent structural stability. The synthetic base oil used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives it excellent performance properties at both high and low temperatures. High structural shear stability coupled with a high performance base oil make Mobil 1 Synthetic an outstanding automotive grease.
From the Mobile 1 site. Check the product data at the link above.
Just say'in
Donal
Well-known member
I use a waterproof marine grease but only for the suspension linkages. Hadn't thought about using it for the wheel bearings. I guess there must be an equivalent product in the USA - https://www.whitedogbikes.com/item--Rock-Oil-MPG-Waterproof-Grease-500g-Pot--Rock_Oil_MPG.html
Don
Don
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