Best place to get new brake pads

[RaYzerman19]

Well, I think I'm sure.

I agree with you that the diagram shows that I need FOUR of the pad kits, but each caliper has 2 pads. There are total of 2 Calipers. So, I think I need found pads.

OK, I called some dealers and I need:

3P6-W0045-00-00 BRAKE PAD KIT $40.12 X 2 = $80.24

One KIT is for one side.

Are you sure? I don't own a Gen II but I know you need a total of 8 pads - 4 for each side or caliper. The way I read the parts diagram, is you need FOUR of the pad kits. ????

You are incorrect, each caliper has 4 pads or two sets. You need 8 pads or 4 sets total. You could get away with 3 sets if you have ABS and IF the lower set in the right caliper aren't worn too bad. That is controlled by the rear brake pedal and has a set of smaller pistons. Note there are two separate listings for each caliper, item #6 and #17, Qty 2 for each listing, total 4 sets.

 

[FJRski_2007]

I think you are correct.

The diagram shows just ONE side. Meaning (One) caliper.

So, I need #17 * 2 and #6 * 2.

I think I need this:

3P6-W0045-00-00 BRAKE PAD KIT $40.12 Quantity 4 = $160.48

 

[not2shabby]

How many miles did you have the on the bike, when you replaced the front pads?

How about the rear? Did you replace it as well?

Just replace the pads, the pins and anti-rattle clips should be fine. I replaced mine last summer with Carbonne Lorraine SBK pads and like them a lot. They were much cheaper on ebay than any OEM pads I could find anywhere at the time. A few people have said they're not rotor friendly, but so far so good here. Oh yeah, clean your pistons good while you're at it.

I'm thinking it had about 30k miles when I changed them, the rears were still good. I haven't checked them lately and have a little over 40k miles now. Think I'll go out in the garage and have a look.... oh, and you do need 8 pads for the front.

 

[not2shabby]

Just replace the pads, the pins and anti-rattle clips should be fine. I replaced mine last summer with Carbonne Lorraine SBK pads and like them a lot. They were much cheaper on ebay than any OEM pads I could find anywhere at the time. A few people have said they're not rotor friendly, but so far so good here. Oh yeah, clean your pistons good while you're at it.

I replaced my front pads with those CL pads and was not impressed with their perfomance. Sure, they stopped the bike just as well as factory pads but the factory pads lasted over twice as long and the CL pads wore my front rotors down below minimum thickness specs. Back to factory pads for me!

I agree that there's no reason to replace the anti-rattle clip or pins unless they are damaged. Check the pin carefully for grooving that would stop the pad from sliding freely.

Just curious, did you check the thickness of the rotors before installing the CL pads? I didn't and now wish I had to see how much wear they cause.

 

[FJRski_2007]

I agee, as many of you said, I do need 8 pads. There goes $160.00. But at least I'm helping the economy.

How many miles did you have the on the bike, when you replaced the front pads?

How about the rear? Did you replace it as well?

Just replace the pads, the pins and anti-rattle clips should be fine. I replaced mine last summer with Carbonne Lorraine SBK pads and like them a lot. They were much cheaper on ebay than any OEM pads I could find anywhere at the time. A few people have said they're not rotor friendly, but so far so good here. Oh yeah, clean your pistons good while you're at it.

I'm thinking it had about 30k miles when I changed them, the rears were still good. I haven't checked them lately and have a little over 40k miles now. Think I'll go out in the garage and have a look.... oh, and you do need 8 pads for the front.

 

[not2shabby]

Yeah...Japan's economy! Well, I guess they do need it though!

Ok, I took a look at the pads last nite and they look less than half worn. I'm not really a hard braker, more of a 'pace' rider on the street, so I think the CL's will last me around 20-30k miles. The bike had 20k on it when I bought it and I doubt the previous owner was hard on brakes either, so I'm assuming the CL's will come close to matching the stock pads for longevity. As for rotor wear, I'm gonna get some micrometers and see where they at now and check them occasionally.

 

[FJRski_2007]

I have 35K miles on my original OEM pads. I still have some life left on the pads, but I'm going on a 8K mile trip to New Foundland, I think I will get new OEM pads.

 

[SkooterG]

D'oh!

 

[Bustanut joker]

LMFAO!!!

Gebus keyrist Scooter can ya at least post in the right thread?

Yer poppa has got to be damned proud right now.. :haha:

 

[SkooterG]

LMFAO!!!

Gebus keyrist Scooter can ya at least post in the right thread?

Yer poppa has got to be damned proud right now.. :haha:

:finger:

At least you weren't smart enough to quote my oopsie for all posterity!

Ya Jackass!

:finger:

 

[SkooterG]

I have 35K miles on my original OEM pads. I still have some life left on the pads, but I'm going on a 8K mile trip to New Foundland, I think I will get new OEM pads.

Those pads go a long way. How much is 'some life left'? My guess is you have quite a bit more than 8k miles.

 

[Bustanut joker]

LMFAO!!!

Gebus keyrist Scooter can ya at least post in the right thread?

Yer poppa has got to be damned proud right now.. :haha:

:finger:

At least you weren't smart enough to quote my oopsie for all posterity!

Ya Jackass!

:finger:

Ahh shit...

 

[Harald]

I replaced my front pads with those CL pads and was not impressed with their perfomance. Sure, they stopped the bike just as well as factory pads but the factory pads lasted over twice as long and the CL pads wore my front rotors down below minimum thickness specs. Back to factory pads for me!

Just curious, did you check the thickness of the rotors before installing the CL pads? I didn't and now wish I had to see how much wear they cause.

I wish I had so that I could confirm that the wear was caused by the CL pads. All I know is that NO ONE has reported excessive rotor wear with stock pads and my rotors mic below spec after running stock pads and then CL pads.

 

[Harald]

Something to be aware of when checking pad thickness is that it's been my experience that the left caliper inside pads wear MUCH quicker than other front pads. The lower inboard being the worst offender, this requires laying on the ground to see the pad while installed (or pulling the pads completey to check). This has been the case with the original factory pads and also the CL pads. I did extend the pistons onto a piece of wood and thoroughly cleaned the pistons when I changed pads. I also haven't noticed any brake dragging so I can't explain why there's uneven pad wear. I'm not the only one to experience this either.

Knowing this, I plan on rotating pads at each front tire change in the future to even out wear on my $160 worth of front pads.

 

[FJRski_2007]

Do you know where I can get the steps needed to change the front pads?

Would the FJR Service manual have the steps?

Something to be aware of when checking pad thickness is that it's been my experience that the left caliper inside pads wear MUCH quicker than other front pads. The lower inboard being the worst offender, this requires laying on the ground to see the pad while installed (or pulling the pads completey to check). This has been the case with the original factory pads and also the CL pads. I did extend the pistons onto a piece of wood and thoroughly cleaned the pistons when I changed pads. I also haven't noticed any brake dragging so I can't explain why there's uneven pad wear. I'm not the only one to experience this either.

Knowing this, I plan on rotating pads at each front tire change in the future to even out wear on my $160 worth of front pads.

 

[not2shabby]

To change the front pads all you have to do is loosen the 2 caliper bolts, loosen the pins that hold the pads in place, remove the caliber bolts, remove the caliper from the disc, remove the pin holding the pads in place and finally remove the pads. Clean the caliper and pistons with some brake cleaner and gently pry the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new thicker pads. Assemble in reverse order and pump the brake lever until it's good and firm. Finally go bed in your new pads!