Bike down, totaled slider, frame damaged, 15 mph

[Fred H.]

This is the second 06 I have heard about getting dumped in a corner in the past few weeks, and I gotta wonder if the sensitive throttle and herky/jerky control issues didn't play a role in this accident. It is really easy to snatch the bike and upset the suspension in mid turn due to the new throttle pulley.

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

40 minute ride, 15 mph low side, $6,000. I'm still alive and kicking to tell about it.

We are glad for this, wish you the best with your journey ahead to be back to riding again.

 

[Rickster]

Unsure of the bolt length/thread engagement issue.

I measured the factory mounting bolts when removed, and skyways bolts inserted into the slider. both sides were the same length.

 

[Shadowfax]

The trouble with all these long sliders with long bolts is that there is too much leverage at the point of contact. That and the contact base isn't large enough. Even MOKO's are just tipover guards at best. A 0 mph tip over trashed the MOKO and in the end cost me over $500. They're placed too high to do any real good. The R&G's are the ones that I know really work.

Well to be honest I dropped my FJR on Sunday while checking the tires.

Cost estimate with Mokos:

crankcase cover, gasket for cover, mirror, bag protector and logo (for now, I'll get a new bag lid later), clutch lever: $200

Moko replacement : $50?

lid $330

Total: $580 (depending on moko cost) and this ignores the scrape on the muffler that is pretty unnoticeable.

too bad I had the bags on

 

[EXPDSGT]

A good welder can "fill" in that area -- it does not need a lot of strenght as the main part that holds has the strength. No one with any liability will tell you this because of the risk. The slider broke that piece out when it bent.

I am glad the motor has deep threads for the mount bolt -- measure the hole and get the longest one that will torque up, that you can.

 

[Randy]

Bikes and parts can be replaced. Glad that's all we're talking about.

 

[mdisher]

I know when I installed mine, the length of bolt sticking out of my slider(s) was the same as the bolts they replaced. Of course I followed the instructions and made sure they were equal.

Someone with a true engineering degree knows, perhaps Fred, or someone can look it up.

But if you have say a half inch bolt, and you can thread it in a half an inch and torque it to the thread's maximum torque, that's as good as having it threaded in an inch. The threads only hold so much. So even if that bolt was threaded in further the force applied to it would have stripped out even more of your block.

I went through this back in the day with a Honda Accord that I wrecked and the motor mount was sheared off. The engine was fine, but we were concerned about how deep we could screw the bolts into the motor at the mount as only half of the mount was left.

There was just a fraction over the bolts thickness, in depth available.

We ended up putting another 140k miles on that car after that without issue.

Now, I'm not saying that these longer sliders don't pose an issue when forces are applied to them in just the right way. Obviously that's not the case. But the roll the dice and takes your chances. I'm keeping mine for now.

Oh, and more importantly, you were OK

 

[rublenoon]

Bikes and parts can be replaced. Glad that's all we're talking about.

+1 what randy said

 

[radman]

Groo's gone down so many times he had Corbin mold 2 seats made of Delrin to replace the sliders.

 

[camera56]

A good welder can "fill" in that area -- it does not need a lot of strenght as the main part that holds has the strength. No one with any liability will tell you this because of the risk. The slider broke that piece out when it bent.
I am glad the motor has deep threads for the mount bolt -- measure the hole and get the longest one that will torque up, that you can.

Good tip. I'm going to investigate that possibility as well.

 

[Shadowfax]

Good tip.

Hey! A little sensitivity please!

Oh, that wasn't about me?

:blink:

 

[camera56]

Bikes and parts can be replaced. Glad that's all we're talking about.

+1 what randy said

Thanks to all of you for your good words. We ride, we type, we tell stories, we *****, we moan, and we wake up the next day glad for the opportunity and ready to do it again. Thanks for the fellowship and if anyone can use any of the information here to make a smart decision, then good on all of us.

 

[odot]

I think I'll just not lay mine down. Plus, I'll park next to a tree.....just to be safe.

 

[Fred H.]

But if you have say a half inch bolt, and you can thread it in a half an inch and torque it to the thread's maximum torque, that's as good as having it threaded in an inch. The threads only hold so much. So even if that bolt was threaded in further the force applied to it would have stripped out even more of your block.

It's all about the surface area of the engaged threads. All things being equal, one inch of threads will indeed have a higher strength than 1/2 an inch will.

One option to prevent this type of damage in the future would be to mill a groove in the shank of the bolt so it would shear off on it's own before it did damage to the frame. But then, that is going to cause the slider to bust off and your plastic will get damaged, which was the purpose of it in the begining.

I am not sure if even a Delrin slider would help here. Obviously it would be able to absorb some force, but I don't know if it would be enough.

Truth is, that when your bike slides down the road, something is gonna get broken on it. I guess you have to decide if you want to protect the plastic at the expense of possible frame damage.

 

[Bounce]

The hard part about all this is what happened to the frame. The low side slide forced the slider up which applied enough force to the bottom of the flange into which the slider fits to snap it out (so basically it busted a piece of the frame off).

This has been one of the concerns voiced about the use of the metal slider vs. Delrin plastic. Guess this might confirm the suspicions.

Yep. Drag that you may be the one to learn this first.

Glad to hear you're not hurt worse than you are.

 

[camera56]

But if you have say a half inch bolt, and you can thread it in a half an inch and torque it to the thread's maximum torque, that's as good as having it threaded in an inch. The threads only hold so much. So even if that bolt was threaded in further the force applied to it would have stripped out even more of your block.

I am not sure if even a Delrin slider would help here. Obviously it would be able to absorb some force, but I don't know if it would be enough.

Truth is, that when your bike slides down the road, something is gonna get broken on it. I guess you have to decide if you want to protect the plastic at the expense of possible frame damage.

A question. Is the idea that the Delrin would slide better on asphalt than would the aluminum? 600 lbs of bike sliding at 15 mph or so puts a lot of force on what turns out to be a decent size lever hanging on literally by a few threads.

 

[rogdeb]

Bikes and parts can be replaced. Glad that's all we're talking about.

+1 what randy said

+ 2

 

[temp357]

This is the second 06 I have heard about getting dumped in a corner in the past few weeks, and I gotta wonder if the sensitive throttle and herky/jerky control issues didn't play a role in this accident. It is really easy to snatch the bike and upset the suspension in mid turn due to the new throttle pulley.

I hate to agree with Fred on this one, but I'd have to say +1. After tinkering around at low rpm i think it's just to easy to slide out with a normal flick of the wrist.

 

[Groo]

Groo's gone down so many times he had Corbin mold 2 seats made of Delrin to replace the sliders.

:lol:

 

[Toecutter]

This is the second 06 I have heard about getting dumped in a corner in the past few weeks, and I gotta wonder if the sensitive throttle and herky/jerky control issues didn't play a role in this accident. It is really easy to snatch the bike and upset the suspension in mid turn due to the new throttle pulley.

I hate to agree with Fred on this one, but I'd have to say +1. After tinkering around at low rpm i think it's just to easy to slide out with a normal flick of the wrist.

Hell, even on my '04 I'm never able to pick up the throttle at the point I want to in mid-turn, due to the amount of available torque and the fear of adding too much too abruptly. Better to come out slower than come out sliding, I say.
Cam- Sorry about your predicament, glad you're okay. Perhaps it's time to look at some tougher apparel, seeing as how yours faired at low speed.