Not if you buy your OEM stuff from Gary McCoy, he's a good deal less than MSRP. Of course, he's probably got a great price on holeshots, too. Email him for a quote: [email protected]
Bike down, totaled slider, frame damaged, 15 mph
- Thread starter camera56
- Start date
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camera56
Well-known member
excellent, thanks
For those still reading, i'm not giving up on sliders yet. Or dumb ass protectors. I can't seem to find a source for R&G sliders. Anyone?
Warchild
Benevolent Dictator
Yes, and let's "keep it in the family", and support our forum sponsors!
VancoSport is where you want to score your R&G sliders. This guy is beyond awesome, and has many FJR accessories you can only find in Europe. He carries an extensive array of R&G products.
Check him out; you will NOT be sorry: VancoSport thread
Last edited by a moderator:
camera56
Well-known member
Excellent. Thanks for that.
For what it's worth, is your vote new frame or get the sucker welded?
zzkenoman
Well-known member
Heres what these sliders look at 10mph on asphalt, no fairing damage.
slapnpop
Rest in Peace our Forum Founder
Seeing as I've been through a complete frame replacement for a broken motormount tab, I feel I have $0.02 to toss in here.
I stripped the bike of all bodywork, but still rolling, and took it to the dealer for the frame replacement. $3,100 (included radiator too, but frame was all but 100). I couldn't find ANYONE willing to weld it, something about cast aluminum in a stress bearing connection.
I opted to replace the frame (on insurance dime) rather than total bike because I would have lost out big-time on the loan payoff.
I'm glad I replaced the frame (and other damaged parts) because the bike is fine now, and right.
Independant of the sliders, that portion of the frame is weak, and breaks easily.
If you end up repairing, there are great dealers to get parts from. I use MrCycles in Asheville, NC, and was WELL below the local dealer's prices.
I stripped the bike of all bodywork, but still rolling, and took it to the dealer for the frame replacement. $3,100 (included radiator too, but frame was all but 100). I couldn't find ANYONE willing to weld it, something about cast aluminum in a stress bearing connection.
I opted to replace the frame (on insurance dime) rather than total bike because I would have lost out big-time on the loan payoff.
I'm glad I replaced the frame (and other damaged parts) because the bike is fine now, and right.
Independant of the sliders, that portion of the frame is weak, and breaks easily.
If you end up repairing, there are great dealers to get parts from. I use MrCycles in Asheville, NC, and was WELL below the local dealer's prices.
weekend rider
Well-known member
Just another acknowledgement glad your ok the bike is fixable.
One point that everyone seems to over look is all these sliders are not sliders.
At best and the ones advertised as " TOGS " tip over guards as well as all the rest are just that. They perform and do their job as designed as they have been made. There only use is to stop the blunt force when the bike falls over from loosing control and not being able to hold up the weeight of the bike or in loose gravel or put your foot down insome oil on the road, or any thing related to the above.
So every one that thinks they are sliders and will do the job when your bike goes sliding down the road needs to wake up and smell the coffee.
For them to even perform as sliders they need to be reworked and re -design .
Example; if they were to slide they would not grab or hinder the movement of the bike while slidding down the road. They should Glide or Roll down the road and take the impact with absorbing the downward force instead of stopping it and grabbing it as they do now. And as far as the bolt is concerned it should be a break away bolt and one not as strong or stronger the the slider material.
I hope everyone that buys all the sliders that have been mentioned realize that all perform well as tip over guards and not as sliders.
When I bought mine I knew what job they were susposse to do, and that was to help if the bike fell over and that is all.
I know paint can be slippery on the roads but how much was pilot error?? It also seems some information is missing?? Just an uneducated guess..................... weekend rider
One point that everyone seems to over look is all these sliders are not sliders.
At best and the ones advertised as " TOGS " tip over guards as well as all the rest are just that. They perform and do their job as designed as they have been made. There only use is to stop the blunt force when the bike falls over from loosing control and not being able to hold up the weeight of the bike or in loose gravel or put your foot down insome oil on the road, or any thing related to the above.
So every one that thinks they are sliders and will do the job when your bike goes sliding down the road needs to wake up and smell the coffee.
For them to even perform as sliders they need to be reworked and re -design .
Example; if they were to slide they would not grab or hinder the movement of the bike while slidding down the road. They should Glide or Roll down the road and take the impact with absorbing the downward force instead of stopping it and grabbing it as they do now. And as far as the bolt is concerned it should be a break away bolt and one not as strong or stronger the the slider material.
I hope everyone that buys all the sliders that have been mentioned realize that all perform well as tip over guards and not as sliders.
When I bought mine I knew what job they were susposse to do, and that was to help if the bike fell over and that is all.
I know paint can be slippery on the roads but how much was pilot error?? It also seems some information is missing?? Just an uneducated guess..................... weekend rider
camera56
Well-known member
Thanks for those two cents. Good two cents at that. I am in the business of helping large organizations make hard decisions. Funny how this one feels just like one of those. We look for credible sources of information to help eliminate uncertainties, or at least manage them. Words like yours are valuable indeed. Thanks. At this point i think it comes down to figuring out how long my insurance company will punish me if i file the claim.
One way or another, it's always rider error.Just another acknowledgement glad your ok the bike is fixable.
One point that everyone seems to over look is all these sliders are not sliders.
At best and the ones advertised as " TOGS " tip over guards as well as all the rest are just that. They perform and do their job as designed as they have been made. There only use is to stop the blunt force when the bike falls over from loosing control and not being able to hold up the weeight of the bike or in loose gravel or put your foot down insome oil on the road, or any thing related to the above.
So every one that thinks they are sliders and will do the job when your bike goes sliding down the road needs to wake up and smell the coffee.
For them to even perform as sliders they need to be reworked and re -design .
Example; if they were to slide they would not grab or hinder the movement of the bike while slidding down the road. They should Glide or Roll down the road and take the impact with absorbing the downward force instead of stopping it and grabbing it as they do now. And as far as the bolt is concerned it should be a break away bolt and one not as strong or stronger the the slider material.
I hope everyone that buys all the sliders that have been mentioned realize that all perform well as tip over guards and not as sliders.
When I bought mine I knew what job they were susposse to do, and that was to help if the bike fell over and that is all.
I know paint can be slippery on the roads but how much was pilot error?? It also seems some information is missing?? Just an uneducated guess..................... weekend rider
I posted becuase I wanted all the things to happen that have: good counsel on my options for fixing my rig and some good discussion on the "sliders." No excuses offered. Body position was good (inside the center line). Looking deep into the corner. Didn't snatch the throttle though i did give it a twist. Should have paid more attention plain and simple.I'm not sure what anyone is complaining about with the damaged slider and broken frame. There is no bolt in the world that is going to support the load of the bike sliding along like that without bending. It did exactly what I would expect it to do. The bolt bent, that pulled hard on the bolt pulling out the aluminum threads and the bending load concentrated on the end of the slider cracked the frame. I would see no reason complaint about the slider doing what it did. The impact obviously had to be pretty hard at one point. The slider was damaged....the question is what else would have been damaged if it had not taken that much grief.
Drill out the hole and insert it with a timesert or helicoil.
Most any competent welder should be able to touch up that area. A few minutes with a die grinder and no one would know it ever happened.
The comments about thread engagement are a bit misleading. Typically one would like about one diameter of thread engagement in a steel nut. In aluminum the text books will say 1.5 diameters of engagement but experience says that you need at least 2 diameters of engagement in aluminum for a highly loaded, critical fastener.
Given the bending moment on that slider I wouldn't expect any bolt at any engagement length to live thru it. It might not have pulled the threads out but it would have bent further then, possibly doing more damage.
I have the Moko sliders on my 03 for the very reason that they do not anchor to the frame directly at the slider point, they have a larger diameter bolt and the base diameter of the slider is much larger than the sliders like pictured that just go over one bolt. The base is so tiny that any bending moment is dramatically multiplied in loading the bolt.
Drill out the hole and insert it with a timesert or helicoil.
Most any competent welder should be able to touch up that area. A few minutes with a die grinder and no one would know it ever happened.
The comments about thread engagement are a bit misleading. Typically one would like about one diameter of thread engagement in a steel nut. In aluminum the text books will say 1.5 diameters of engagement but experience says that you need at least 2 diameters of engagement in aluminum for a highly loaded, critical fastener.
Given the bending moment on that slider I wouldn't expect any bolt at any engagement length to live thru it. It might not have pulled the threads out but it would have bent further then, possibly doing more damage.
I have the Moko sliders on my 03 for the very reason that they do not anchor to the frame directly at the slider point, they have a larger diameter bolt and the base diameter of the slider is much larger than the sliders like pictured that just go over one bolt. The base is so tiny that any bending moment is dramatically multiplied in loading the bolt.
tripletango
Well-known member
Jeez I was about to come on with all kind of advice. Think I will have another beveage and tackle this in the morning.
Bike Effects
Well-known member
Sorry about your incident Camera56. It sucks. One note though, the bike serial number on a Yamaha is stamped on the frame. The new frame will have no serial number and must be dealt with legally at some point. Don't ask me how I know.
I'd like to hear from Skyway.............
pawtracks
Well-known member
Maybe he rashed the left side throttlemeister (matching bar end weight).How did the throttlemiester get rashed if it landed on the left side.
My guess anyway
+1 on what pawtracks just said. He rashed up the bar end weight that matches on the left.
Good info on this thread though. I'll stick with the MotovationUSA sliders. I'd rather grind off the plastic and make that the weak point.
Glad he wasnt hurt.
Good info on this thread though. I'll stick with the MotovationUSA sliders. I'd rather grind off the plastic and make that the weak point.
Glad he wasnt hurt.
Knifemaker
Not me
I don't think there is much diffrence in having a metal slider as oppossed to a plastic one as far as the way they install on the 06. Any hard "shatterproof" plastic would transfer the shock from impact to the bolt the same as if it was aluminum.
Evey fall or tip over is going to be diffrent so there is no way to compare which material is really better unless you can replicate the same situation exactly. Aluninum will "slide" and grind down much like a hard plastic moving quickly over concrete. The plastic, being softer, will grind down faster, but we have no standard values as to what makes up a "typical fall".
If in this instance, the sliders were made of plastic, we have no way of knowing if they would not have just broken off the exact same way. As mentioned, having anything sticking out like this and dependent on one bolt is not going to survive most impacts after a certain speed.
There are always going to be cases where a "slider" actualy lives up to it's name and lets the bike slide...but the fact of what material it is made out of may have little to do with it's performance, it just means in this instance the forces at play worked out that way.
One could use hardened steel bolts, notched and engineered to break off at a certain speed or force, but this would mean you would have to establish what force is excessive.
You could also use big coiled springs in place of the slider , so if you drop your bike, it just bounces back up......
KM
Evey fall or tip over is going to be diffrent so there is no way to compare which material is really better unless you can replicate the same situation exactly. Aluninum will "slide" and grind down much like a hard plastic moving quickly over concrete. The plastic, being softer, will grind down faster, but we have no standard values as to what makes up a "typical fall".
If in this instance, the sliders were made of plastic, we have no way of knowing if they would not have just broken off the exact same way. As mentioned, having anything sticking out like this and dependent on one bolt is not going to survive most impacts after a certain speed.
There are always going to be cases where a "slider" actualy lives up to it's name and lets the bike slide...but the fact of what material it is made out of may have little to do with it's performance, it just means in this instance the forces at play worked out that way.
One could use hardened steel bolts, notched and engineered to break off at a certain speed or force, but this would mean you would have to establish what force is excessive.
You could also use big coiled springs in place of the slider , so if you drop your bike, it just bounces back up......
KM
nusman68
Well-known member
Just caught the thread...did I miss anything? Has Fred H. already posted his obligatory 'blame the throttle pulley' message?
Aw hell..I missed it! :lol:
Aw hell..I missed it! :lol:
fjrchik
Just a girl in the world, having rode 3 FJRs
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temp357
Well-known member
5 is the clear winner for me. After having a spill on my bmw, i went cheap and decided to fix and paint it msyelf. I could have saved myself 3 months of pain by having the insurance take care of it. Would've cost the same too.
Yeah, let's lynch'm!
just kidding Ian. I still love my purdie sliders!
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camera56
Well-known member
Yup, that's the one.Maybe he rashed the left side throttlemeister (matching bar end weight).How did the throttlemiester get rashed if it landed on the left side.
My guess anyway
Warchild
Benevolent Dictator
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