Buying a 07FJR Tommorrow

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My last set of tires went from feeling great to hell-in-a-bucket in what seemed to be about 100 miles. I would agree with all the other comments about worn tires.

Also, to your original windsheild question, I'm 6'0" and use a +4" windshield (CeeBaily). I could probably do fine with a +2, but no complaints with what I have. Then again, you'll find that out of 10 people with aftermarket windshields, you'll get 11 opinions. ;)

BTW, I've spent several years working on high field (superconducting) magnets also, on the mechanical side. Sparky = elec engineer. You know, the folks that work with those imaginary things...electrons?

 
Telsa,

Did you feel it when you rode my 06 last weekend? I have almost new PS2's. If you change your mind you can make an offer on mine, still available (just not officially advertised yet).

I will tell you that my previous set of roadsmarts had this behavior at 4,000 miles. Front were flat in center with sharp angles on edges. In a corner it would fall into the corner, not a smooth transition into the corner. Plus they were a little squirmy at the end of their life. When I installed the PS2's (really any new tire will do this) the feeling was gone, very linerar transition into a corner. I never realized how bad they were until I got the new tires and then I was upset I waited so long.

Cycle gear will install for around $30 per wheel if you take the wheels off yourself.

 
I think you guys are correct about the ridge on the tires. Seller commented a couple of times about not being an agressive rider and having big chicken strips.
By the way, what are the typical labor costs to replace a couple of tires on the FJR?
Call around and see what it costs with you taking the tires and wheels in. I pay about $25 here on the east coast of NC, but that was after getting quotes all over the place. If you get a good price that allows you to put some new sneakers on the bike and get your suspension adjustments set (you can check with Jeff Ashe--haulinashe and his posts about that), I imagine you will be fine. Tires and wear make a big difference on it much more than on my ST1300.

doctorj

 
By the way, what are the typical labor costs to replace a couple of tires on the FJR?
Don't worry about it. Just look into the pulsating light and relax...........................now, repeat after me

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

Barry, buy an FJR

:yahoo:

 
Brad, your bike exceeded my expectations on how a bike should corner. I see why everyone loves those PS2's.

I didn't realize Cycle Gear replaced tires. My local Yamaha dealer in Plano wants $82.00 labor per tire if I bring in my own tires, $41.00 per tire if they sell me the tires. Did the math and I still save $70.00 if I buy my own PS2's from Derby Cycles. I've never removed tires before and I'm sure it takes specialized equipment to do so.

Floyd! Good to hear from you. Moonlighting as a hypnotherapist? What kind of shield are you using? I think you and I are about the same height/inseam so you might be able to provide some good insight.

 
Floyd! Good to hear from you. Moonlighting as a hypnotherapist? What kind of shield are you using? I think you and I are about the same height/inseam so you might be able to provide some good insight.


CalSci +4 height +2 width. Works well for longer trips and/or cooler weather.

I'm 6'2" with a 35-36" inseam. The only position mods I use are 1" riser blocks. The FJR fits me quite nicely.

 
Floyd! Good to hear from you. Moonlighting as a hypnotherapist? What kind of shield are you using? I think you and I are about the same height/inseam so you might be able to provide some good insight.


CalSci +4 height +2 width. Works well for longer trips and/or cooler weather.

I'm 6'2" with a 35-36" inseam. The only position mods I use are 1" riser blocks. The FJR fits me quite nicely.
Put the stocker back on in hot weather?

 
Finally bought it yesterday. Rode it for 2 hrs and 45 minutes and it feels great except for the cornering issues mentioned. Inspected the tires much closer and found that visually they look fine without any cupping or squaring so I'm a little concerned that it could be something else. However, the chicken strips are huge with 4K on the tires. Noticed that much effort is required to push the handlebar to prevent it from turning in too much and falling. Talked to a track racer at Kwik Kar who inspected the bike and he thinks its more likely a suspension issue. I adjusted all the suspension settings based on haulinashe's recommendations and will see if that makes a difference today.

 
tesla,

Again, you probably bought a bike with Original tires that now makes it about 4 year old rubber. Change your rubber first and the odds are this problem will go away. Tires loose their characteristics in about 2-3 years, even though they look good.

A bike of this caliber needs Good Rubber. This would be your best 1st farkle!

 
tesla,Tires loose their characteristics in about 2-3 years, even though they look good.

A bike of this caliber needs Good Rubber. This would be your best 1st farkle!
Good to know. Sometimes what you see vs reality can be deceptive. Interested to see what the tire looks like as I'm cornering. Getting out a bit today to check my suspension changes. Maybe I'll get my son to make shoot some close up video of the tires while cornering.

 
Another couple of quick, low cost things to check:

The front forks should extend out the top of the triple clamp roughly this much, and yours?

ForkTubeGap.jpg


Hands and knees on the deck, look under the bike. Stock dog bones are flat plain items, are yours like this?

DogBones2.jpg


Aftermarket lowering dog bones are usually engraved/embossed and look much better than the stock 'bones.

Both of these items are ways to lower the FJR, the previous owner may have been inseam challenged and may have lowered the bike at one or both ends.

 
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Congrats on your purchase! :yahoo: I've liked your posts and observations, made me think a lot about my own FJR. So enjoy fussing with the various farkles and adjustments that make the bike roll your way: windshield, bar risers, suspension, tire type among other things.

I've never removed tires before and I'm sure it takes specialized equipment to do so.
If you find yourself racking up a lot of miles, it is worth it to get into the tire changing game yourself. This forum encourages doing stuff yourself; you can get satisfaction out of tire swaps, which is another opportunity to clean and tweak other things the dealer wouldn't do, and on your own schedule.

Here is a great site for tire tools/changin which I ended up following almost exactly. Other products are out there, but I was able to make the Harbor Freight tool work very well, and highly recco the Marc Parnes balancer and the Mojo Lever.

https://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange

The first couple of changes were intimidating, but now it is cake about a dozen tires later. It helps to watch someone else do it first, but can be done on your own. At least I know those first rim scratches were mine, and not some knucklehead at the dealer!

Ride on!

 
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Made haulinashe's suspension changes and put 41 and 40 psi in the tires and put it to the test....same thing. A friend of mine with mucho motorcycle experience rode the bike today and said he feels like the bike wants to stand up while cornering and that he's never had tires feel like that (not that he's counting it out). I've also noticed a bumping feeling as if there was a raised area of hardened rubber on the contact patch. Fully intend to replace the rubber but it'll be very frustrating if this doesn't fix it.

Tried Bogus's suggestion about raising the front end up and turning the handlebars......very smooth with no resistance.

Ionbeam, thanks for those diagrams. I haven't looked at those areas yet because the previous owner is the original owner who was 6'3.

Time to order tires. I'm more than a little surprised that tires that look fine could cause a problems that feels like a suspension or steering failure. I'm not convinced it's the tires but we will find out soon.

Yambone, thanks for that link. Never thought I would be doing my own tires but that has changed after seeing that website. Saving money is important but the satisfaction from doing it yourself is just as good.

Despite the problem I'm having, I didn't want to get off the bike today, even in 35 degree weather without electrics.......truly an amazing bike. The learning curve coming from a Wee Strom is practically nil. I found in our 20 mph winds today that wind will no longer be an issue for my wife compared to the Wee and feel like the Paladino guy from the Ride Like a Pro series when it comes to parking lot maneuvers.......(maybe not quite that good).

 
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Made haulinashe's suspension changes and put 41 and 40 psi in the tires and put it to the test....same thing. A friend of mine with mucho motorcycle experience rode the bike today and said he feels like the bike wants to stand up while cornering and that he's never had tires feel like that (not that he's counting it out). I've also noticed a bumping feeling as if there was a raised area of hardened rubber on the contact patch. Fully intend to replace the rubber but it'll be very frustrating if this doesn't fix it.


 


Tried Bogus's suggestion about raising the front end up and turning the handlebars......very smooth with no resistance.


 


Is that bumpy feeling the "clunky" feeling that you first mentioned in your earlier post? could it possibly be broken tire cords in the tire that you could not physically see? That wanting to stand up in the corners is the VERY same feeling I got with the original tires on mine after I had conservatively rode for 1000 mi getting used to the bike. Always had to apply lots of pressure to the bars in the corners, and that was before the original BT021's were toast after 3300mi. My money is still on a fresh set of rubber. DO NOT go with the BT021 front again. I had good luck with the rear, but if you can spring it, go with the Metz PR2's IMHO.


 

 


 
Is that bumpy feeling the "clunky" feeling that you first mentioned in your earlier post? could it possibly be broken tire cords in the tire that you could not physically see? That wanting to stand up in the corners is the VERY same feeling I got with the original tires on mine after I had conservatively rode for 1000 mi getting used to the bike. Always had to apply lots of pressure to the bars in the corners, and that was before the original BT021's were toast after 3300mi. My money is still on a fresh set of rubber. DO NOT go with the BT021 front again. I had good luck with the rear, but if you can spring it, go with the Metz PR2's IMHO.
I do have to put much pressure on the bars to prevent it from falling in on the low speed stuff and bike wants to stand up when going faster. I ordered the PR2's (you did mean Michelin, right?) last night from Derby and also 90 degree valve stems from Bike Effects.

 
Is that bumpy feeling the "clunky" feeling that you first mentioned in your earlier post? could it possibly be broken tire cords in the tire that you could not physically see? That wanting to stand up in the corners is the VERY same feeling I got with the original tires on mine after I had conservatively rode for 1000 mi getting used to the bike. Always had to apply lots of pressure to the bars in the corners, and that was before the original BT021's were toast after 3300mi. My money is still on a fresh set of rubber. DO NOT go with the BT021 front again. I had good luck with the rear, but if you can spring it, go with the Metz PR2's IMHO.
I do have to put much pressure on the bars to prevent it from falling in on the low speed stuff and bike wants to stand up when going faster. I ordered the PR2's (you did mean Michelin, right?) last night from Derby and also 90 degree valve stems from Bike Effects.
You will love those Ariete 90 degree valve stems. I have them on both my bikes. As for taking the tires off, it you haven't gotten a service manual, you will find some on ebay that aren't very expensive that help a lot. Also for the FJR, there are tons of tech articles that will assist you. There aren't any real special tools either. With the bike on the centerstand the rear is pretty easy. With the rear wheel off, I use a harbor freight bike lift to just elevate the front a bit to get the front off and leave it that way until put the new mounted tires back on (a few well placed blocks of wood can do the same). There really should be places that will mount your tires for $25-35 each somewhere near you (hope) or find someone who does tire mounting at their home. Next thought is get a group of people who ride to go in together on buying a tire mount machine and keep so you can help each other out (balancer can be built or bought for about $100 also). I really think you will get the bike sorted out and will be very happy with it.

doctorj

 
My bad...I did mean Michelin. I wasn't quite awake yet this morning!! Also it would be nice to see some close up pics of the old tires if you get around to it. Inquiring minds want to know :rolleyes: Also you need some pics of your new ride :yahoo:

 
Got some pics of the tires in questions and new PR2's for comparison. It is at the dealer now and will pick it up today. I asked them to please ride it first before putting the tires on it. The outer black stripe is where I've been riding it so you can get an idea how wide the original chicken strips are. I've been chicken to lean it much further than what you see on the black stripe.

IMG_0770.JPG


IMG_0774.JPG


IMG_0769.JPG


IMG_0772.JPG


 
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From the pictures your rear tire looks like a ME Z6 and it looks pretty well squared off. You are gonna luv your new tires.

 
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