I have looked through this forum and find all kinds of information about how it helped a lot of people when they did the barbarian jumper mod. I have been able to find a little bit of information but not the full detail of how to do it step-by-step. A lot of the, original posts seem to be gone. I have a 2005 model. Could anybody help me out here?
Cannot find procedure for Gen 1 barbarian jumper mod….please help!
- Thread starter Nolev77
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
I don't recall the procedure ever being actually posted here. Did you find that the original article was on micapeak and that website no longer exists?
Try the Internet Wayback Machine and lookup http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/jumper.html from 2005 or so.
RossKean
Well-known member
I have a PDF of the BJM. Send me a PM with your email and I would be happy to send it to you.
Don't know if a link is still available on the forum or not.
Edit: The PDF I have is specific to Gen II. I'll have a look to see if I can find a Gen I procedure...
Don't know if a link is still available on the forum or not.
Edit: The PDF I have is specific to Gen II. I'll have a look to see if I can find a Gen I procedure...
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RossKean
Well-known member
Brilliant! I did some searching and every link I found was dead. Popped right up with the Internet Wayback Machine!
Also the companion article on actually making the settings
http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/co_adjustment.html
I still have a Gen II pdf if anyone wants it.
Thank you so much!!!
Thanks again so much!!!
torch
Well-known member
I did not realize HMark's FJR site was gone. Here is what I originally sent him:
The FJR has the capability to adjust the overall fuel injector map for each individual cylinder right from the dashboard. The procedure is well-documented in the European and Oceanic service manuals, and requires the use of CO measuring instruments.
But the Yamaha decided to lock out this capability in the bikes they shipped to North America. It was a conscious decision: they will tell a dealer how to override the lock-out if the dealer can prove the need, but it's a big secret from everyone else.
Not any more. This will explain how you can Europeanize (is that a word?) your FJR so you can have it properly serviced at any shop. Or even at home if you have the proper equipment. All you have to do is move one little wire: the Barbarian Jumper (named after the nick of the fellow who first noticed this odd wire that went nowhere.)
First, remove the seat and two left sidecovers. As with the dash panels, Yamaha used a variety of fasteners on this job, including Allen head fasteners, push-pin fasteners, and 1/4 turn Philips head fasteners. See your owner's manual for a more complete description of removing each. Don't forget the two underneath the sidecover.
Next, remove the airbox cover. At least all 4 of these are the same 1/4 turn fastener. Unfortunately, the one indicated by the screwdriver is recessed and a PITA.
With the covers out of the way, the ECU is now accessible. Squeeze the black latch on the top of the connector as you pull it out of the ECU.
On the underside of the connector are 3 white bars. Using a fingernail or small screwdriver, push the left one (as pictured) in about 1/32". This unlocks the wires in the connector.
Pin #27 is the 5th from the left on the bottom row. It houses a yellow wire with a red stripe -- 1/2 of the Barbarian Jumper. Carefully remove this wire from the connector. Make sure you have the wire for pin 27 -- the other half of the jumper is only 2 pins away at 29, and we want to leave that half there.
Do not pull on wires -- if they are pulled even slightly out you will not be able to re-lock the connector. Also, the metal terminal ends are very fragile and difficult to replace if you separate the wire from the terminal. Push the wire out gently as shown in the next picture.
Using a small piece of stiff wire (I used some .030 MIG wire, but a paperclip or safety pin would probably work) gently push up from the ECU side of the connector to lift the wire to pin 27 and the white plug in pin 25. Do not force anything! The metal terminal ends on the wires are fragile and easily damaged. Lift the pin out with tweezers or needlenose pliers.
The plug is small. Very small. And bouncy. It can travel a surprising distance when deflected off the airbox. If you drop it you are in for more fun than a snipe hunt. Do not ask me how I know this. Use tweezers.
Put the plug in pin 27. Put the wire you removed in pin 25. Make sure they are fully seated and then re-lock the connector by pressing the left hand (as pictured) white bar on the top of the connector down until flush (about 1/32") It does not take a lot of force, so if it doesn't want to go you probably have a wire pulled slightly out. Make sure all the wires in the left 1/3 of the connector are fully seated and try again.
When you are all done, insert the connector into the ECU until the latch clicks. If you did it right, it should look like this now.
The FJR has the capability to adjust the overall fuel injector map for each individual cylinder right from the dashboard. The procedure is well-documented in the European and Oceanic service manuals, and requires the use of CO measuring instruments.
But the Yamaha decided to lock out this capability in the bikes they shipped to North America. It was a conscious decision: they will tell a dealer how to override the lock-out if the dealer can prove the need, but it's a big secret from everyone else.
Not any more. This will explain how you can Europeanize (is that a word?) your FJR so you can have it properly serviced at any shop. Or even at home if you have the proper equipment. All you have to do is move one little wire: the Barbarian Jumper (named after the nick of the fellow who first noticed this odd wire that went nowhere.)
The Barbarian Jumper
First, remove the seat and two left sidecovers. As with the dash panels, Yamaha used a variety of fasteners on this job, including Allen head fasteners, push-pin fasteners, and 1/4 turn Philips head fasteners. See your owner's manual for a more complete description of removing each. Don't forget the two underneath the sidecover.
Next, remove the airbox cover. At least all 4 of these are the same 1/4 turn fastener. Unfortunately, the one indicated by the screwdriver is recessed and a PITA.
With the covers out of the way, the ECU is now accessible. Squeeze the black latch on the top of the connector as you pull it out of the ECU.
On the underside of the connector are 3 white bars. Using a fingernail or small screwdriver, push the left one (as pictured) in about 1/32". This unlocks the wires in the connector.
Pin #27 is the 5th from the left on the bottom row. It houses a yellow wire with a red stripe -- 1/2 of the Barbarian Jumper. Carefully remove this wire from the connector. Make sure you have the wire for pin 27 -- the other half of the jumper is only 2 pins away at 29, and we want to leave that half there.
Do not pull on wires -- if they are pulled even slightly out you will not be able to re-lock the connector. Also, the metal terminal ends are very fragile and difficult to replace if you separate the wire from the terminal. Push the wire out gently as shown in the next picture.
Using a small piece of stiff wire (I used some .030 MIG wire, but a paperclip or safety pin would probably work) gently push up from the ECU side of the connector to lift the wire to pin 27 and the white plug in pin 25. Do not force anything! The metal terminal ends on the wires are fragile and easily damaged. Lift the pin out with tweezers or needlenose pliers.
The plug is small. Very small. And bouncy. It can travel a surprising distance when deflected off the airbox. If you drop it you are in for more fun than a snipe hunt. Do not ask me how I know this. Use tweezers.
Put the plug in pin 27. Put the wire you removed in pin 25. Make sure they are fully seated and then re-lock the connector by pressing the left hand (as pictured) white bar on the top of the connector down until flush (about 1/32") It does not take a lot of force, so if it doesn't want to go you probably have a wire pulled slightly out. Make sure all the wires in the left 1/3 of the connector are fully seated and try again.
When you are all done, insert the connector into the ECU until the latch clicks. If you did it right, it should look like this now.
Attachments
torch
Well-known member
I guess I should add the companion article too:
Checking the CO Settings
Ok, so you followed all the directions and are anxious to try it out. Press and hold both Select and Reset while you turn on the key. Do not release the buttons until you see the Diag screen appear. (about 8-10 seconds)
Now, press Select once to toggle to the CO mode.
Press both Select and Reset together. Hold for about 2 seconds to enter CO mode. The number displayed is the cylinder selected. Press Select to scroll up from 1 to 4. Pressing Reset scrolls down.
Press both buttons simultaneously for a few seconds to see the setting for the selected cylinder. It will be between -126 and +128.
Write this number down and keep it in a safe place forever. If you decide to play around and screw something up you will then be able to return to this point.
The number is a factor that is used by the fuel injection system to compensate for manufacturing tolerances. It will be different for each cylinder. It is not a direct measure of the CO percentage of the exhaust gas. There is no way to predict the CO level from this number. A CO sniffer must be used on each header pipe (which means you must install a riv-nut on each pipe first to sample from). Then this adjustment is used to bring the CO levels as shown by the sniffer to specification (3-4% at idle)
Pressing Select will decrease the value (lean the mixture), pressing Reset will increase it (richen the mixture). Pressing both buttons simultaneously will back you up to the previous "menu" and allow you to choose another cylinder.
To exit CO mode, turn off the ignition key.
Checking the CO Settings
Ok, so you followed all the directions and are anxious to try it out. Press and hold both Select and Reset while you turn on the key. Do not release the buttons until you see the Diag screen appear. (about 8-10 seconds)
Now, press Select once to toggle to the CO mode.
Press both Select and Reset together. Hold for about 2 seconds to enter CO mode. The number displayed is the cylinder selected. Press Select to scroll up from 1 to 4. Pressing Reset scrolls down.
Press both buttons simultaneously for a few seconds to see the setting for the selected cylinder. It will be between -126 and +128.
Write this number down and keep it in a safe place forever. If you decide to play around and screw something up you will then be able to return to this point.
The number is a factor that is used by the fuel injection system to compensate for manufacturing tolerances. It will be different for each cylinder. It is not a direct measure of the CO percentage of the exhaust gas. There is no way to predict the CO level from this number. A CO sniffer must be used on each header pipe (which means you must install a riv-nut on each pipe first to sample from). Then this adjustment is used to bring the CO levels as shown by the sniffer to specification (3-4% at idle)
Pressing Select will decrease the value (lean the mixture), pressing Reset will increase it (richen the mixture). Pressing both buttons simultaneously will back you up to the previous "menu" and allow you to choose another cylinder.
To exit CO mode, turn off the ignition key.
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There was a slight difference in the 2004 - 2005 models where the yellow/red "jumper wire" did not exist in the North American wiring harness. It was necessary to add a jumper wire between the pin 25 and pin 29 locations.
DAMHIK
dan
DAMHIK
dan
Katzklawz
New member
If you still have this, I'd appreciate it as well.
graytaz
Well-known member
I had the rivnuts installed on my 2003 and did the BJM along with a Power Commander. A topnotch mechanic at my dealer had to weld the rivnuts as they wouldn't stay put with the thin metal of the headers. Balanced out the CO using a sniffer and tweaked the settings to make things richer but the result really didn't make a noticeable change in how the engine ran. It was a fair chunk of change for no real benefit at least in my case. YRMD.
torch
Well-known member
Yeah, it won't do much with a PC installed. The PC overrules the ECM, that's how they work.
I wrote the following in 2005, and don't see anything I'd change:
Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
Don't forget,the Co settings mode works only at idle and at about 1500rpms.Above that range hasn't any effect.It works only around the idle rpms!The only reason for that mode is due to the strict European and Australian Co emissions...
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Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
Don't forget,the Co settings mode works only at idle and at about 1500rpms.Above that range hasn't any effect.It works only around the idle rpms!The only reason for that mode that mama Yamaha offered to the European and Australian models,is due to the strict European and Australian Co emissions at idle, traffic jam, traffic lights...
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graytaz
Well-known member
The BJM was performed before the PC was installed. I was trying to override the over-sensitive throttle at low RPMs such as turning left at a light over the grooves worn by traffic where a smooth throttle would be an advantage. Didn't improve noticeably with the BJM so tried the PC and maybe got a minimal improvement but certainly nothing compared to the investment. That bike was certainly a front happy rocket compared to my '08.
torch
Well-known member
Oh yeah! I took Pandora (my old 03) for a spin the other day and was surprised again what a difference there is between a Gen1 and a Gen2. Lifting the front wheel on Legacy requires deliberate effort. Lifting the front wheel on Pandora requires thoughts of acceleration. <lol>
RossKean
Well-known member
Power, gearing, weight or shorter wheelbase? Performance specs do not indicate that there should be a major difference.
