Cannot find procedure for Gen 1 barbarian jumper mod….please help!

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Nolev77

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I have looked through this forum and find all kinds of information about how it helped a lot of people when they did the barbarian jumper mod. I have been able to find a little bit of information but not the full detail of how to do it step-by-step. A lot of the, original posts seem to be gone. I have a 2005 model. Could anybody help me out here?
 
I have looked through this forum .... A lot of the, original posts seem to be gone. I have a 2005 model. Could anybody help me out here?
I don't recall the procedure ever being actually posted here. Did you find that the original article was on micapeak and that website no longer exists?

Try the Internet Wayback Machine and lookup http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/jumper.html from 2005 or so.
 
I have a PDF of the BJM. Send me a PM with your email and I would be happy to send it to you.
Don't know if a link is still available on the forum or not.

Edit: The PDF I have is specific to Gen II. I'll have a look to see if I can find a Gen I procedure...
 
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I don't recall the procedure ever being actually posted here. Did you find that the original article was on micapeak and that website no longer exists?

Try the Internet Wayback Machine and lookup http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/jumper.html from 2005 or so.
Brilliant! I did some searching and every link I found was dead. Popped right up with the Internet Wayback Machine!
Also the companion article on actually making the settings
http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/co_adjustment.html

I still have a Gen II pdf if anyone wants it.
 
I have a PDF of the BJM. Send me a PM with your email and I would be happy to send it to you.
Don't know if a link is still available on the forum or not.

Edit: The PDF I have is specific to Gen II. I'll have a look to see if I can find a Gen I procedure...
Thank you so much!!!
 
I did not realize HMark's FJR site was gone. Here is what I originally sent him:


The FJR has the capability to adjust the overall fuel injector map for each individual cylinder right from the dashboard. The procedure is well-documented in the European and Oceanic service manuals, and requires the use of CO measuring instruments.
But the Yamaha decided to lock out this capability in the bikes they shipped to North America. It was a conscious decision: they will tell a dealer how to override the lock-out if the dealer can prove the need, but it's a big secret from everyone else.
Not any more. This will explain how you can Europeanize (is that a word?) your FJR so you can have it properly serviced at any shop. Or even at home if you have the proper equipment. All you have to do is move one little wire: the Barbarian Jumper (named after the nick of the fellow who first noticed this odd wire that went nowhere.)

The Barbarian Jumper

First, remove the seat and two left sidecovers. As with the dash panels, Yamaha used a variety of fasteners on this job, including Allen head fasteners, push-pin fasteners, and 1/4 turn Philips head fasteners. See your owner's manual for a more complete description of removing each. Don't forget the two underneath the sidecover.
sidecover.JPG


Next, remove the airbox cover. At least all 4 of these are the same 1/4 turn fastener. Unfortunately, the one indicated by the screwdriver is recessed and a PITA.
air_cover.jpg


With the covers out of the way, the ECU is now accessible. Squeeze the black latch on the top of the connector as you pull it out of the ECU.
LOCATION.JPG


On the underside of the connector are 3 white bars. Using a fingernail or small screwdriver, push the left one (as pictured) in about 1/32". This unlocks the wires in the connector.
wire_release.jpg


Pin #27 is the 5th from the left on the bottom row. It houses a yellow wire with a red stripe -- 1/2 of the Barbarian Jumper. Carefully remove this wire from the connector. Make sure you have the wire for pin 27 -- the other half of the jumper is only 2 pins away at 29, and we want to leave that half there.

Do not pull on wires -- if they are pulled even slightly out you will not be able to re-lock the connector. Also, the metal terminal ends are very fragile and difficult to replace if you separate the wire from the terminal. Push the wire out gently as shown in the next picture.
wire_location.jpg


Using a small piece of stiff wire (I used some .030 MIG wire, but a paperclip or safety pin would probably work) gently push up from the ECU side of the connector to lift the wire to pin 27 and the white plug in pin 25. Do not force anything! The metal terminal ends on the wires are fragile and easily damaged. Lift the pin out with tweezers or needlenose pliers.
poping_plug.jpg

The plug is small. Very small. And bouncy. It can travel a surprising distance when deflected off the airbox. If you drop it you are in for more fun than a snipe hunt. Do not ask me how I know this. Use tweezers.
PLUG.JPG


Put the plug in pin 27. Put the wire you removed in pin 25. Make sure they are fully seated and then re-lock the connector by pressing the left hand (as pictured) white bar on the top of the connector down until flush (about 1/32") It does not take a lot of force, so if it doesn't want to go you probably have a wire pulled slightly out. Make sure all the wires in the left 1/3 of the connector are fully seated and try again.
wire_lock.jpg


When you are all done, insert the connector into the ECU until the latch clicks. If you did it right, it should look like this now.
FINISHED.JPG
 

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I guess I should add the companion article too:

Checking the CO Settings

Ok, so you followed all the directions and are anxious to try it out. Press and hold both Select and Reset while you turn on the key. Do not release the buttons until you see the Diag screen appear. (about 8-10 seconds)

DIAG.JPG


Now, press Select once to toggle to the CO mode.

CO_MODE.JPG


Press both Select and Reset together. Hold for about 2 seconds to enter CO mode. The number displayed is the cylinder selected. Press Select to scroll up from 1 to 4. Pressing Reset scrolls down.

CYLINDER.JPG


Press both buttons simultaneously for a few seconds to see the setting for the selected cylinder. It will be between -126 and +128.

Write this number down and keep it in a safe place forever. If you decide to play around and screw something up you will then be able to return to this point.

co_settings.jpg


The number is a factor that is used by the fuel injection system to compensate for manufacturing tolerances. It will be different for each cylinder. It is not a direct measure of the CO percentage of the exhaust gas. There is no way to predict the CO level from this number. A CO sniffer must be used on each header pipe (which means you must install a riv-nut on each pipe first to sample from). Then this adjustment is used to bring the CO levels as shown by the sniffer to specification (3-4% at idle)

Pressing Select will decrease the value (lean the mixture), pressing Reset will increase it (richen the mixture). Pressing both buttons simultaneously will back you up to the previous "menu" and allow you to choose another cylinder.

To exit CO mode, turn off the ignition key.
 
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There was a slight difference in the 2004 - 2005 models where the yellow/red "jumper wire" did not exist in the North American wiring harness. It was necessary to add a jumper wire between the pin 25 and pin 29 locations.

DAMHIK
dan
 
I have a PDF of the BJM. Send me a PM with your email and I would be happy to send it to you.
Don't know if a link is still available on the forum or not.

Edit: The PDF I have is specific to Gen II. I'll have a look to see if I can find a Gen I procedure...
If you still have this, I'd appreciate it as well.
 
I had the rivnuts installed on my 2003 and did the BJM along with a Power Commander. A topnotch mechanic at my dealer had to weld the rivnuts as they wouldn't stay put with the thin metal of the headers. Balanced out the CO using a sniffer and tweaked the settings to make things richer but the result really didn't make a noticeable change in how the engine ran. It was a fair chunk of change for no real benefit at least in my case. YRMD.
 
If you still have this, I'd appreciate it as well.
The version I have in pdf is for Gen II (I noticed you had a 2003 Gen I based upon your introduction post). The procedure included in the @torch post above should work for you.
I forgot I could attach a pdf file to a forum post! Give this a try if you need this version!
 

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I had the rivnuts installed on my 2003 and did the BJM along with a Power Commander. A topnotch mechanic at my dealer had to weld the rivnuts as they wouldn't stay put with the thin metal of the headers. Balanced out the CO using a sniffer and tweaked the settings to make things richer but the result really didn't make a noticeable change in how the engine ran. It was a fair chunk of change for no real benefit at least in my case. YRMD.
Yeah, it won't do much with a PC installed. The PC overrules the ECM, that's how they work.

I wrote the following in 2005, and don't see anything I'd change:

As the fellow who first hooked an oscilloscope up to the FJR ECU and worked out the mysteries of the Barbarian Jumper, I'd like to say that there is virtually no risk of letting the smoke out if you follow the directions. I was playing with my own baby and took very careful measurements before I first grounded the ECU terminal. Thousands of bikes have been so modded in the last 3 years and I've not heard of a single damaged ECU. There is a far greater risk of damaging the wiring to the ECU by tugging away on the wires without having fully released the locking tab. This happened once early on. That is why the directions stress to push the connectors out, not pull on the wires to remove them.

As for the difference in the 03 vs 04: There really isn't a difference. Yamaha found out that we figured out how to access the adjustment so they stopped supplying us with the jumper, but the configuration remained the same. The use of the resistor was originally a precaution because I didn't have an 04 available to connect up to a scope. Subsequent testing reveals no quantatative differences in the ECUs. But the resistor works, so why mess with success?

As far as effects go, I think I'm pretty clearly on the record as stating that one should make proper measurements so that the adjustments are customized for each bike as required. There's no universal "magic number" that will help all bikes, or even all cylinders. People that have had the work done with CO measurements on a dyno report different results and different required adjustments for each cylinder.

Increasing the CO count increases the BASE injector duration. That is the single greatest factor determining total injector duration AT IDLE. As you open the throttle, the base duration does not change, but other factors (calculated mass air flow, etc.) increase the total duration so the base duration becomes a smaller and smaller percentage of the total. At high RPM and wide open throttle, the base duration is an almost negligible percentage of the total.

So: No, the Barbarian Jumper mod and adjusting the CO will NOT increase your peak HP. Ever. It MAY help in the low- to mid- range (this has been confirmed on a dyno). It MAY help low speed surge drivability issues. It MAY help reduce generated engine heat at idle. Those effects are ONLY possible if the adjustment was required in the first place.

It won't affect generated engine heat at cruise. It won't affect highway mileage. Once the bike gets rolling at moderate throttle openings, the system switches to closed loop mode and the O2 sensor controls the mixture.

I hope this clears up any misconceptions. Have fun, play safe but don't expect miracles.
 
Don't forget,the Co settings mode works only at idle and at about 1500rpms.Above that range hasn't any effect.It works only around the idle rpms!The only reason for that mode is due to the strict European and Australian Co emissions...
 
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I had the rivnuts installed on my 2003 and did the BJM along with a Power Commander. A topnotch mechanic at my dealer had to weld the rivnuts as they wouldn't stay put with the thin metal of the headers. Balanced out the CO using a sniffer and tweaked the settings to make things richer but the result really didn't make a noticeable change in how the engine ran. It was a fair chunk of change for no real benefit at least in my case. YRMD.
Don't forget,the Co settings mode works only at idle and at about 1500rpms.Above that range hasn't any effect.It works only around the idle rpms!The only reason for that mode that mama Yamaha offered to the European and Australian models,is due to the strict European and Australian Co emissions at idle, traffic jam, traffic lights...😉🙂
 
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Yeah, it won't do much with a PC installed. The PC overrules the ECM, that's how they work.

I wrote the following in 2005, and don't see anything I'd change:
The BJM was performed before the PC was installed. I was trying to override the over-sensitive throttle at low RPMs such as turning left at a light over the grooves worn by traffic where a smooth throttle would be an advantage. Didn't improve noticeably with the BJM so tried the PC and maybe got a minimal improvement but certainly nothing compared to the investment. That bike was certainly a front happy rocket compared to my '08.
 
That bike was certainly a front happy rocket compared to my '08.

Oh yeah! I took Pandora (my old 03) for a spin the other day and was surprised again what a difference there is between a Gen1 and a Gen2. Lifting the front wheel on Legacy requires deliberate effort. Lifting the front wheel on Pandora requires thoughts of acceleration. <lol>
 
Oh yeah! I took Pandora (my old 03) for a spin the other day and was surprised again what a difference there is between a Gen1 and a Gen2. Lifting the front wheel on Legacy requires deliberate effort. Lifting the front wheel on Pandora requires thoughts of acceleration. <lol>
Power, gearing, weight or shorter wheelbase? Performance specs do not indicate that there should be a major difference.
 

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