Changed CCT but now won't start --HELP

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Thanks Fred, I was just curious. I remember reading in Ionbeam's post about his engine woes that his chain after 40k was very worn. My FJR already has 92k miles on it. But I do subscribe to the notion of "if it ani't broken don't fix it". So cool, one less thing I can screw up on.

Now for that matter my CCT is still not noisy as far as I can tell :ermm:

I'm planning a big maintenance thing for the 100k anniversary so just putting a list together.

While on this subject, would you change the wheel bearings & seals at 100k if they aren't making noise or have any noticeable free-play?

 
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While on this subject, would you change the wheel bearings & seals at 100k if they aren't making noise or have any noticeable free-play?
Nope. I check them at every tire change. That is (unfortunately) often enough top catch one on the way out. So long as the bearing seal is not compromised, a wheel bearing can go a very long time.

 
This is an update from my original post regarding my 2003 FJR not starting after I had changed the CCT.
Well, I removed the valve cover and noticed that the intake cam was off by one tooth and the lower cam shaft was off by 720 degrees so, after standing around and trying to figure out how to solve this problem w/o making things worst; decided to take a chance and do the following:

1. zip tie the exhaust cam to the chain

2. remove the CCT to gain slack for the chain

3. lift the chain off the intake cam and rotate it forward one tooth and set it to the correct timing position

4. zip tie the intake cam

5. pushed back the chain from lower cam shaft

6. rotate the lower cam shaft to correct timing position

7. pull the chain forward onto the lower cam shaft sprocket

8. zip tie the chain to the lower cam shaft

9. re-installed the CCT

10. poured a little Yama. gear oil on all the rockers and cam chain

11. checked valve cover gasket (looks good) and reinstalled valve cover

12. replaced O rings and reinstalled coolant pipe and pair tubes

Since I had everything apart, I decided to check my intake and exhaust valve clearance and was very delighted to find out that everything (intake & exhaust valves) were within tolerance via specs. from the manual.

As of now, I have yet to start the motorcycle as I am waiting for the new CCT (because I purchased a new CCT in 2004, I noticed that it was not the redesigned one based off of the part #). I figure why take anymore chances. The CCT should arrive this Thursday or Friday, and you can bet I will most definitely take all necessary steps to ensure the cam chain stays in place before removing the CCT and installing the redesigned CCT.

I'll keep everyone updated on the final outcome of this ordeal.

I would like to pass on my most sincere thank you for all of you and your generous and insightful suggestions/tips/ and guidance! I am a lifelong learner and live by my philosophy of "Learning is not enough, you must apply your knowledge." I am confident I would not have learned everything I now know w/o this forum and knowledgeable members.

Thank you,

Duke



Is there a happy ending here? It's been a while since this post . How does the story end?????

 
...What I'm wondering about is how do you keep the timing from getting screwed up when you change the chain? I remember reading or hearing advice which made sense, that if you're in deep enough to do a CCT or valve adjustment (and already have the timing cover and valve cover off) why not also replace a $17 chain, especially on a high mileage bike? The question is how do you do this safely?
My high-mileage '07 had about 75,000 miles on the original chain when I replaced it. If you accidentally dropped both the old and new chains on the floor, you would have been hard-pressed telling them apart. There was only a couple thousandths of an inch difference in the two chains across 1/3 of the length, and no visible signs of wear.

I don't plan on changing the chain again until it reaches 200,000 miles.

 
My high-mileage '07 had about 75,000 miles on the original chain when I replaced it. If you accidentally dropped both the old and new chains on the floor, you would have been hard-pressed telling them apart. There was only a couple thousandths of an inch difference in the two chains across 1/3 of the length, and no visible signs of wear.
Agreed...when I put a new chain on my donor-03 motor, comparing old and new was a shot in the dark guess which one was which, but...

I don't plan on changing the chain again until it reaches 200,000 miles.
Do you regret spending the $18 for the new chain...for peace of mind? I didn't even blink. :)

 
Do you regret spending the $18 for the new chain...for peace of mind? I didn't even blink. :)
Not at all. It was a cheap learning experience. And having the new chain in-hand to compare to the old chain was worth the $18. Like you said, the peace of mind was the real value.

But now that I'm edgejamucated on FJR cam chains, I've got another 100,000 miles to save up $18.

We "stretch" the dog shit out of those chains on race bikes, but they are much narrower chains that are pushing 14k RPM engine speeds. It's common to see 2-3 degrees of intake timing shift in 50 hours engine time on a race bike. I should stop trying to race the FJR.

:)

 
There is one more "argument" against unnecessary chain replacement. In any manufactured assembly, there will always be a certain number of defects.Try as you might, even with post assembly inspection and testing, there will always be a small percentage that fail prematurely. Infantile failures. The chain that you are taking out is known to NOT be one of those.

It is one of the tenets of any service / repair business. If a part doesn't fix a particular problem, you always take it back out so that you do not introduce new problems. Obviously this doesn't apply to wear items that are replaced prophylactically. But none of know what the appropriate replacement interval is for an FJR chain (or CCT for that matter).

 
...I remember reading in Ionbeam's post about his engine woes that his chain after 40k was very worn...
My cam chain suffered physical abuse when it was spit off the crank sprocket, very shortly after the cams ceased to rotate in mechanical sync with the crank.

To go back to a post from some time ago about my engine running like crap after it was rebuilt... it ran just fine. It started right up, ran well and I rode it for 1k miles at my dealers request. It did shake like a Sherwin Williams paint shaker though, my handlebars looked like a Harley. With the bike idling on the side stand you could feel the pavement vibrate 6 feet away. The problem was one of the engine's balancers being off by 60° due to the confluence of two unusual events. We chose to go through my entire engine to be sure that there wasn't a spun main bearing, bent rod, etc. To do so we flipped the engine upside down and pulled the crank. When the engine was upside down and disassembled it let one of the balancers swing free and it rotated down. Unusual event #1. Upon reassembly the balancer was rotated back up and the punch mark was aligned to the case seam exactly per the FSM. The problem was that there was an unadvertised special on the balancer -- a second punch mark 60° from the first punch mark. Unusual event #2.

This was never mentioned in the FSM so nobody thought to look for a second punch mark. This was the root cause for the paint shaker. Just as a word of warning, many of the parts in the FJR engine have a second punch mark that is never mentioned in the FSM. You have to be sure that you have the correct punch mark when you reassemble. With this advance warning you now know to take good notes on all parts that require a punch mark for alignment. I asked what happens if the engine is assembled with ALL the punch marks set 60° off. Would you then end up with a French motor? I never did get an answer.

Silence from the OP is ominous, the lack of updates sounds like the situation is either on-going or another CCT tragedy. Usually good news steps up and announces itself.

 
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While rubber cog-belts are an elegant solution to cam-drive, the automotive industry has, almost universally, eschewed them in favor of the (old tried and true) Morse hy-vo chain -- that, for all intents and purposes, never needs replacement.

The rubber cog-belts are quiet, inexpensive, and efficient -- but, require periodic replacement (although, relatively easy to perform). Yet, almost no one wants to replace anything, anytime, whatsoever... :rolleyes:

The Morse hy-vo chain will eventually need replacement -- along with sprockets -- eventually... (somewhere in the far-distant future where almost no one can see...). :blink:

But, some want to do it sooner? :unsure:

 
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"The rubber cog-belts are quiet, inexpensive, and efficient -- but, require periodic replacement (although, relatively easy to perform). "

Stop by and change my 2000 Toyota Sienna's timing belt, it's WAY past due, I'll hand you the tools. :p

It's not an interference engine, so I don't give a shit. <_<

 
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