Chock

[cdc]

I am going to be trailering the bike (550 mi) for a weekend ride and have researched here and other places how to secure the bike.

One question I have not been able to find is weather you should or should not tie the tire to the chock....

Advise pls.

 

[kawabeemer]

Assuming the chock is secured to the trailer, strapping the tire to the chock is an added safety measure.

 

[majicmaker]

I would most definitely tie down the tire to the chock!

 

[dbvolfan]

Gunny that. I always strap the tire down under the chock, just for good measure.

 

[Burnspot]

I heard the FJR doesn't fit on trailers....so it has to be ridden everywhere.

Strap it down...no need for highway drama.

 

[El Toro]

As you've probably figured out, there is a segment of the motorcycling community that thinks that you're not a real man if you don't ride the bike everywhere. You can buy stickers that say "If you see this bike on a trailer, its been stolen. Call xxx-xxx-xxxx." The guys who feel this way generally look down their noses at folks who use trailers.

My view is that they are often masochistic. Running a bike up the eastern seaboard in July or August from Tennessee to Maine is not my idea of fun. The traffic on the slab is horrible most of the time, temps are often in the 90's or worse, afternoon rains can rival those in the days of Noah, and no matter how big the bike is, you'll have a hard time keeping clean clothes handy unless you're will to do laundry every couple of days. I'd rather haul the bike into southern New England, or the Adirondacks, and then enjoy the riding without the slabstress. And when traveling with wife and dog to a motorcycle friendly destination, the a/c, sound system, and comforts of lots of space, room for snacks, virtually unlimited luggage, etc. make the truck and trailer package a very high comfort indeed.

I run I-40 on bikes a few hundred miles at a time all through the year on in-state errands. I just don't want to do it day after day when the trip is supposed to be for fun.

So .... getting to your question.....

Yes, it is not a bad idea to tie the front wheel into the chock. You can use a velcro strip, or a small clamping tie down.

The key is to remember that you did it. If you try to duck walk the bike back out of the chock, and you've still got it in gear, or you've still got the front wheel tied in, you'll end up frustrated. Sometimes it helps to make a check list to be sure you've covered all the bases.

FWIW, on the FJR I found the Cycle Cynch handlebar tie system to be really nice..... easy on the bike, yet secure.

You can also tie the back wheel in. In my old trailer I used to wrap the rear wheel close to the floor and then tie to the D rings on the left and right. This method allowed me to secure the trailer without removing the saddle bags.

Good luck on your trip and have fun.

 

[feeger]

I don't strap the wheel to the chock. I use a canyon dancer (not used in this pic for obvious reasons) and run a strap around the rear wheel for good measure. I've never had a problem.

 

[cdc]

I was a 'bit' afraid to ask, but I am glad I did and thank you for your responses.

I have not done too many long rides and we are going to Clarksville (AR) for two days of riding around the area, but it is 550 miles from Houston; so to me, the idea of a 9+hr ride is not fun.

Again, thanks for comments, I will secure the wheel!

And thanks to El Toro for the strap suggestion, I will look it up.

 

[cdc]

I don't strap the wheel to the chock. I use a canyon dancer (not used in this pic for obvious reasons) and run a strap around the rear wheel for good measure. I've never had a problem.

feeger - I have heard mixed comments about the Canyon Dancer, obviouly you have not had problems. Tell me, how much to pull the bike down with those?

And what is the obvious reason they were not in the picture?

 

[feeger]

feeger - I have heard mixed comments about the Canyon Dancer, obviouly you have not had problems. Tell me, how much to pull the bike down with those?And what is the obvious reason they were not in the picture?

I just put enough pressure on the canyon dancer to get some of the sag out of the front suspension. The rear strap around the rear tire really helps keep the bike from bouncing around. I don't see a problem skipping the canyon dancer and doing the same on the front.

The not so obvious reason I didn't use it in the above pic, is the front end is completely destroyed (Brodies bike after a head-on collision) and there was no paint to protect.

 

[El Toro]

I used to use a Canyon Dancer, and I think for the FJR or any other Japanese bike its OK. Some of the more delicate Italian stuff (Piaggio imports, Aprilia, Moto Guzzi) tended to end up with broken throttle. Canyon Dancer puts more force and stress on the grips than what the Piaggio representative "invented" and named Cycle Cynch. Cycle Cynch gives good stability, but without the high stress on the grips.

For an FJR it shouldn't be an issue. They're pretty tough .... You can probably tie on at the triple clamp/tree as an alternative that might be even be better still.

 

[cdc]

feeger - I have heard mixed comments about the Canyon Dancer, obviouly you have not had problems. Tell me, how much to pull the bike down with those?And what is the obvious reason they were not in the picture?

I just put enough pressure on the canyon dancer to get some of the sag out of the front suspension. The rear strap around the rear tire really helps keep the bike from bouncing around. I don't see a problem skipping the canyon dancer and doing the same on the front.

The not so obvious reason I didn't use it in the above pic, is the front end is completely destroyed (Brodies bike after a head-on collision) and there was no paint to protect.

Sorry about the accident, I did notice there was no windshield, but thought it was your preference...

Thanks,

cdc

 

[cdc]

I used to use a Canyon Dancer, and I think for the FJR or any other Japanese bike its OK. Some of the more delicate Italian stuff (Piaggio imports, Aprilia, Moto Guzzi) tended to end up with broken throttle. Canyon Dancer puts more force and stress on the grips than what the Piaggio representative "invented" and named Cycle Cynch. Cycle Cynch gives good stability, but without the high stress on the grips.
For an FJR it shouldn't be an issue. They're pretty tough .... You can probably tie on at the triple clamp/tree as an alternative that might be even be better still.

I may get either the Cycle Cynch or C. Dancers for added stability, but I was checking yesterday with the bike on the chock, how to 'route' the straps through the triple clamp and where on the bed of the trailer they should be secured. I think I measured ~17", I marked on the cardboard to use as template.

 

[FastSpy]

I am using the Condor front wheel chock and only plan on using two straps as they suggest in this video plus I"ll be strapping the front tire to the chock. Tried it yesterday on the freeway and it went well.

Condor Chock with only two straps click on trailer only videos when link opens

thoughts???

.

 

[Tree Doc]

Perhaps I'm the odd man out. If I'm using a Harbor Freight chock as seen in your photo, I don't bother to tie down the wheel itself, I just use high quality, old school Ancra tie down straps that have the special loop to wrap on forks or bars or wherever you choose. I refuse to use the common ratchet straps because I have had many fail over the years and once, I almost lost $7500 bucks worth of ATV due to a complete failure of straps.

I generally use the Canyon Dancer, too but someone here did point out a very valid concern once and that was the FJR bars are cast aluminum, not tubular like I've been used to all my life and there is a possibility of breaking the bars if you crank down on them. I usually load the suspension travel about half way so there is still some good damping action but not so much the bike can bounce easily.

 

[El Toro]

Perhaps I'm the odd man out. If I'm using a Harbor Freight chock as seen in your photo, I don't bother to tie down the wheel itself, I just use high quality, old school Ancra tie down straps that have the special loop to wrap on forks or bars or wherever you choose. I refuse to use the common ratchet straps because I have had many fail over the years and once, I almost lost $7500 bucks worth of ATV due to a complete failure of straps.
I generally use the Canyon Dancer, too but someone here did point out a very valid concern once and that was the FJR bars are cast aluminum, not tubular like I've been used to all my life and there is a possibility of breaking the bars if you crank down on them. I usually load the suspension travel about half way so there is still some good damping action but not so much the bike can bounce easily.

Good point on the FJR's bars. The Cycle Cynch is not loaded like the Canyon Dancer. Its really a better system.

The Ancra straps are mighty hard to beat. Good soft ties are handy too.

 

[Burnspot]

I've got a Canyon Dancer and carry it in the sidebag with the toolkit for emergencies, but haven't needed to use it yet. I did use it on my FZ6 when relocating a few years ago and it performed very well. The FZ6 is very light; however, and has a one piece handlebar...but I think it'd work just fine on an FJR with judicious tightening down.

 

[cdc]

I am using the Condor front wheel chock and only plan on using two straps as they suggest in this video plus I"ll be strapping the front tire to the chock. Tried it yesterday on the freeway and it went well.
Condor Chock with only two straps click on trailer only videos when link opens

thoughts???

.

This is an approach I had not seen in my 'week long research' on the subject. A common suggestion is to tie the bike pulling forward, toward the chock and this guys are suggesting to use only two straps in the middle back... looks risky to me, but I am am sure it works or they would not be saying so.

 

[El Toro]

I am using the Condor front wheel chock and only plan on using two straps as they suggest in this video plus I"ll be strapping the front tire to the chock. Tried it yesterday on the freeway and it went well.
Condor Chock with only two straps click on trailer only videos when link opens

thoughts???

.

This is an approach I had not seen in my 'week long research' on the subject. A common suggestion is to tie the bike pulling forward, toward the chock and this guys are suggesting to use only two straps in the middle back... looks risky to me, but I am am sure it works or they would not be saying so.

I strongly recommend against this idea. I tried it with my ST1100 when I first bought my Condor Chock and the bike ended up against the side of the trailer (enclosed trailer).

I really like Condor Chocks, but you have to respect the heavy bike, and tie it down front and rear to have a secure transport.

If you are just riding on level roads with large radius turns at modest speeds, you might get away with the lazy approach of two tie downs. It took less than 15 miles for my ST1100 to get into trouble.

An FJR is very similar in geometry and weight to an ST1100, and I would expect similar. I was not dumb enough to try it with the FJR.

One other comment on the Condor Chock. If you don't want the entry lip on the chock to dig a hole in your lower cowl, cut the lip off the chock, and make sure you've picked your pivot point so that it will fully clear the cowl under all suspension excursions. I transported my FJR in a Condor Chock about 1350 miles on one trip, and I did not have the pivot in its optimal position. I powdered a fair amount of plastic with this mistake.

In general I like Condor Chocks, but Condor did not get along as well with my FJR as it does with my other bikes. And I certainly wouldn't trust the two tie down method. Looks cool. Didn't work for me.