Chock

[JamesK]

...And yes cdc, it's a ***** to live 600+ miles from either a corner or a change in elevation. Most of the "never trailer" types live closer to interesting roads or better weather (I'd take 103F 15%RH anyday over the **** we've been having around here lately) than we do. I've quit riding to NM, I must have done the I-45/287/40 thing a half dozen time this last year. Rather do it in a day in the truck with wifey than take an extra 3 days of 1200 miles of useless wear on the tires/bike, just to say I can do it.

I beg to differ my friend. I spent 3 years exiled in IMHO the worst place (for a twisties lover) in the country - way down in South Flori-duh, near Ft Lauderdale. For me it was around 450 miles just to get to Jacksonville, from there another 350+ miles to reach any real roads in Georgia.

And if you've ever ridden through FL (either Turnpike or I-95) you know that it does not get more monotonous and desolate than that hell-hole. I'll take riding through TX any day over FL. IMHO even the I-22 "corridor" heading up to AR from the SE is better. In fact the only two "hills" for over 200 miles from S. FL were a couple of smelly land-fills.

If I didn't have a 3-4 days available to get to GA/NC (two of these spent slabbing) I'd have to settle for Central FL, which was a 400 mile round trip, just to ride the only "hills" in that entire God-forsaken state, and those weren't much... You can see how much I love Flori-duh

Always the same thought bounced around in my head, "this pathetic excuse for a land mass does not deserve to be above sea-level". But I guess that's just me, some folks like that dump.

 

[majicmaker]

...And yes cdc, it's a ***** to live 600+ miles from either a corner or a change in elevation. Most of the "never trailer" types live closer to interesting roads or better weather (I'd take 103F 15%RH anyday over the **** we've been having around here lately) than we do. I've quit riding to NM, I must have done the I-45/287/40 thing a half dozen time this last year. Rather do it in a day in the truck with wifey than take an extra 3 days of 1200 miles of useless wear on the tires/bike, just to say I can do it.

I beg to differ my friend. I spent 3 years exiled in IMHO the worst place (for a twisties lover) in the country - way down in South Flori-duh, near Ft Lauderdale. For me it was around 450 miles just to get to Jacksonville, from there another 350+ miles to reach any real roads in Georgia.

And if you've ever ridden through FL (either Turnpike or I-95) you know that it does not get more monotonous and desolate than that hell-hole. I'll take riding through TX any day over FL. IMHO even the I-22 "corridor" heading up to AR from the SE is better. In fact the only two "hills" for over 200 miles from S. FL were a couple of smelly land-fills.

If I didn't have a 3-4 days available to get to GA/NC (two of these spent slabbing) I'd have to settle for Central FL, which was a 400 mile round trip, just to ride the only "hills" in that entire God-forsaken state, and those weren't much... You can see how much I love Flori-duh

Always the same thought bounced around in my head, "this pathetic excuse for a land mass does not deserve to be above sea-level". But I guess that's just me, some folks like that dump.

I kinda agree James! For riding, this place does SUCK!! But, I'll take Flori-duh! anyday of the week when compared to Shoveling Snow. I grew up in that stuff and I'll be a happy camper if I never see snow again for as long as I

live! What are you doing in Japan? I lived in Negishi Heights, Yokahama for 4 years (76-80). I loved it but, It was expensive as hell back then (340yen=$1). It must be Crazy Now! :dribble:

 

[JamesK]

I kinda agree James! For riding, this place does SUCK!! But, I'll take Flori-duh! anyday of the week when compared to Shoveling Snow. I grew up in that stuff and I'll be a happy camper if I never see snow again for as long as I live! What are you doing in Japan? I lived in Negishi Heights, Yokahama for 4 years (76-80). I loved it but, It was expensive as hell back then (340yen=$1). It must be Crazy Now! :dribble:

majicmaker I have to agree with you on the extreme cold, I hate it too.

My wife is Japanese and I've worked here before, so when the job in the US finished we came back. Japan is absolutely loaded with awesome twisty roads and the cops aren't too much of a headache.

CDC, apologies for the thread hijack.

 

[cdc]

I kinda agree James! For riding, this place does SUCK!! But, I'll take Flori-duh! anyday of the week when compared to Shoveling Snow. I grew up in that stuff and I'll be a happy camper if I never see snow again for as long as I live! What are you doing in Japan? I lived in Negishi Heights, Yokahama for 4 years (76-80). I loved it but, It was expensive as hell back then (340yen=$1). It must be Crazy Now! :dribble:

majicmaker I have to agree with you on the extreme cold, I hate it too.

My wife is Japanese and I've worked here before, so when the job in the US finished we came back. Japan is absolutely loaded with awesome twisty roads and the cops aren't too much of a headache.

CDC, apologies for the thread hijack.

Got the information I needed for 'trailering' the bike... Heading out tomorrow.

Thanks to all for the advise!

 

[Allnight]

Pics please! I wanna see what you end up with!

 

[cdc]

Had a fantastic time riding in Arkansas, around Clarksville.

The bike traveled well in the trailer and did not move in the ~10 hours drive each way.

This is how it ended up:

The roads and geography are unbelievable, particularly for me coming from the Houston area.

 

[FastSpy]

Finally got my Aluma motorcycle trailer set up with the Condor, some additional tie down hooks and a new set of Powertye tie down straps. Worked well with only two straps on each side connecting to the rear of the bike as suggested by Condor. I will secure the front wheel to the Condor stand with a strap for added security.

 

[CODan]

Too late to help, but I recommend the CycleCinch.com over the Canyon Dancer I.

I used the CD to get my ZZR1200 home in the back of my truck and it scared the crap out of me. I used the CC to take my immobile FJR to the dealer on a trailer (65 miles) and it was very secure. With both I used a crude chock I'd made for my dirt bike.

The CC has wraps that cover over the grips and a strap that adjusts the difference between them. Much more secure than the original CD.

I think the new CD II has the adjustable strap and cups (not a wrap) and it's probably okay too.

Something like the Condor chock is probably the absolute best setup.

 

[RinconVTR]

Finally got my Aluma motorcycle trailer set up with the Condor, some additional tie down hooks and a new set of Powertye tie down straps. Worked well with only two straps on each side connecting to the rear of the bike as suggested by Condor. I will secure the front wheel to the Condor stand with a strap for added security.

Fastspy - THAT IS HOW THE TWO STRAP METHOD IS DONE!!!! And VERY nice single bike rig you got there...

I just hauled mine off to another garage yesterday and got the FJR tied down with my Harbor Freight chock. I think there is some room for improvment, but I only had to drive 15 miles and I didnt feel like experimenting with new tie down points at the time.

The above pic is how things should look, with a slight gap under the tire. But I'll tell you, for whatever reason, this bike was seriously locked on the chock like no other I've had in there. Next time, I'm going to adjust it back a notch and may try a smaller (or zero) gap.

 

[cdc]

Finally got my Aluma motorcycle trailer set up with the Condor, some additional tie down hooks and a new set of Powertye tie down straps. Worked well with only two straps on each side connecting to the rear of the bike as suggested by Condor. I will secure the front wheel to the Condor stand with a strap for added security.

Congratulations for the nice trailer, looks fantastic!

 

[FastSpy]

More details and photos

Bolted down the Condor after some measuring to ensure the trailer tongue weight was adequate and purchased some new Powertye tie downs. These rachet tie downs have safety retainers on each end to eliminate any un-hooking and also include genuine sheepskin wraps to protect the paint. Following Condors suggested tie down methods only requires a rachet strap on each side near the rear of the bike and securing it forward at approximately 45 degree angle. I will also secure the front tire to the Condor stand for added security.

 

[Fred W]

I wouldn't trust either the cast handlebars or the cast rear foot peg or exhaust support subframes as the primary tie down points. Castings are notoriously brittle and break too easily when stressed laterally. The handlebars on the FJR are intended for providing steering inputs, not supporting the 600+ lb weight of the bike. Of course, I could be all wet, as I've also never heard of a handlebar breaking off on a trailer either.

The tie down points shown in the below picture up in the front (around the front forks' lower triple clamp) and in the middle, around the steel frame are both good places, IMO. The rear one maybe not so good, but is probably overkill with the other two pairs anyway.

 

[FastSpy]

I wouldn't trust either the cast handlebars or the cast rear foot peg or exhaust support subframes as the primary tie down points. Castings are notoriously brittle and break too easily when stressed laterally. The handlebars on the FJR are intended for providing steering inputs, not supporting the 600+ lb weight of the bike. Of course, I could be all wet, as I've also never heard of a handlebar breaking off on a trailer either.

I thought that the bolts holding the exhuast supports would shear before the actual hanger itself would fracture. I wondered what grade they where before running a rachet strap around the hangers. I'm sure one could test this theory or the one you mention with enough racheting force.

 

[Fred W]

I wouldn't trust either the cast handlebars or the cast rear foot peg or exhaust support subframes as the primary tie down points. Castings are notoriously brittle and break too easily when stressed laterally. The handlebars on the FJR are intended for providing steering inputs, not supporting the 600+ lb weight of the bike. Of course, I could be all wet, as I've also never heard of a handlebar breaking off on a trailer either.

I thought that the bolts holding the exhuast supports would shear before the actual hanger itself would fracture. I wondered what grade they where before running a rachet strap around the hangers. I'm sure one could test this theory or the one you mention with enough racheting force.

...sure could, if one had enough money to replace broken parts. Or they could just chicken out and loop that soft tie through the frame like the middle one in the last picture.

 

[RinconVTR]

I wouldn't trust either the cast handlebars or the cast rear foot peg or exhaust support subframes as the primary tie down points. Castings are notoriously brittle and break too easily when stressed laterally. The handlebars on the FJR are intended for providing steering inputs, not supporting the 600+ lb weight of the bike. Of course, I could be all wet, as I've also never heard of a handlebar breaking off on a trailer either.

Consider how much force is applied to the handle bars when FAST riders are braking near max or during an emergency panic stop. Then consider exactly how much downforce your really placing on the tie down. Unless you are one who nearly bottoms out the front forks (not good!) they will typically be compressed about the same amount as they would under heavy braking, if not less.

That said, those with add-on risers (on the already high OEM bars) I would not feel as good using the handlebars as tie down points!

 

[Fred W]

I wouldn't trust either the cast handlebars or the cast rear foot peg or exhaust support subframes as the primary tie down points. Castings are notoriously brittle and break too easily when stressed laterally. The handlebars on the FJR are intended for providing steering inputs, not supporting the 600+ lb weight of the bike. Of course, I could be all wet, as I've also never heard of a handlebar breaking off on a trailer either.

Consider how much force is applied to the handle bars when FAST riders are braking near max or during an emergency panic stop. Then consider exactly how much downforce your really placing on the tie down. Unless you are one who nearly bottoms out the front forks (not good!) they will typically be compressed about the same amount as they would under heavy braking, if not less.

That said, those with add-on risers (on the already high OEM bars) I would not feel as good using the handlebars as tie down points!

It isn't the down force from the tie downs being cinched down that would break a casting. It'd be the force on the same strap from the bike's weight trying to tip over sideways after taking a turn or hitting a bump with the trailer. Depending on the situation it could apply more than the bike's weight (600 lbs) of force on that strap.

This is my thinking. If you'd prefer to strap it down by the cast alloy handlebars, go for it.

 

[cdc]

Recently had a chance to spend a long weekend at the Big Bend National Park (TX) and trailered the bike the 1,200 mile RT.

 

[DustOff]

Looking for some advice: Moving across country...well, Texas to Northern VA with my 13 in the back of an F-350, with the 8 ft bed. I have the EZ Chock, a set of Canyon Dancers, and a bunch of ratchet straps. I've read through several threads where it talks about the lower triple tree being the ideal place to tie the bike down and the Canyon Dancer on the bars as a back up for the front end. I haven't loaded the bike in the truck yet but looking at the angle from the lower triple tree to the corner of the bed for the tie down; not seeing it happen. So it looks like I will go Canyon Dancers on the bars, use soft ties forward on the front pegs. I'm still scratching my head for the rear based on good places to tie down and not risk any paint damage in the process.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I don't trailer unless I'm taking it in for service. And then I strap the wheel to the chock. Takes seconds and it's good insurance.

 

[phroenips]

I'm still scratching my head for the rear based on good places to tie down and not risk any paint damage in the process.

When I moved from Colorado to Tulsa (and back to Colorado only a year later), I used the rear passenger foot peg bracket thingies