Cruise Control Not Working

[atxrider]

Hey Guys,

I have been working on the AVCC install the last few days and cannot get it to engage. I have gone over all the wiring several times and everything seems to be in order.

Basically, the control pad has power and I am able to turn it on. When I hit the set button, nothing really happens. I do have vaccum at the servo...and have the servo cable secured on the lower cable with seven beads:

It has a little slack, but not much. The servo and canister (fuel pump) are both in front of the coolant hose and I have checked for possible hose crimping, but have found nothing.

Can anyone give me a few more things to look for?

Regards,

Davy

 

[Wild72]

Make sure you have 0Volts on the purple wire to the brake light otherwise CC will not engage.

I spent a considerable time last weekend with the identical issue you are having, and it turns out my brake light modulator doesn't play well with the Audiovox unit, even though it shows 0V on the purple wire.

I had to put the brake light wiring back to stock before I could get the CC to engage. (Even with a relay, I couldn't get the brake light modulator to work with the Audiovox unit.)

 

[atxrider]

Make sure you have 0Volts on the purple wire to the brake light otherwise CC will not engage.
I spent a considerable time last weekend with the identical issue you are having, and it turns out my brake light modulator doesn't play well with the Audiovox unit, even though it shows 0V on the purple wire.

I had to put the brake light wiring back to stock before I could get the CC to engage. (Even with a relay, I couldn't get the brake light modulator to work with the Audiovox unit.)

Crap. I have a wig wag modulator...this could very well be the issue. Will go out and give it a try.

Thanks Wild72.

Davy

 

[Wild72]

Davy, I have had the same wig-wag modulator installed. As soon as I rewired the brake lights back to stock, the CC started working.

(I have an idea for a fix, which I will post when I get it working).

Pete

 

[atxrider]

Davy, I have had the same wig-wag modulator installed. As soon as I rewired the brake lights back to stock, the CC started working. (I have an idea for a fix, which I will post when I get it working).

Pete

Pete,

Thanks for the suggestion...I rewired back to stock and it works flawlessly. You saved me another day of frustration (already had one)...I owe you a beer. I would be interested in hearing your fix...I really hate to lose that modulator.

Kind Regards,

Davy

 

[Wild72]

A beer is good. (A full case is even better!!!). :clapping:

I was only able to help through having the same frustrations. Will keep you posted on a fix.

Pete

 

[Wild72]

WooHoo,

Fix works perfectly. Check your PM's Davy.

 

[Patriot]

WooHoo,
Fix works perfectly. Check your PM's Davy.

and the fix is in...can you share...enquiring minds want to know...

 

[wfooshee]

Yeah, bragging privately about something that you've discussed publicly is kinda like kindergarten nyah nyah nyah thing!

Tell ! ! !

Add some diodes to your relay or what?

 

[Harald]

My AVCC works perfectly, but I'm also interested in what fixed your issue.

Don't be keeping no secrets from your best FJR buds! B)

On edit: OOh! Look! I'm at 500 posts! Do I get some kind of prize?

 

[Patriot]

My AVCC works perfectly, but I'm also interested in what fixed your issue.Don't be keeping no secrets from your best FJR buds! B)

On edit: OOh! Look! I'm at 500 posts! Do I get some kind of prize?

actually yes...you get to edit your description above the blue square dot thingys when ya got 500 posts :yahoo:

check your profile for the new addition...now choose very carefully what you want it to say...

1) click on bottom edit your signature

2) click on left edit profile information

3) see the new custom member title - there it is

4) hit amend my profile

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Wild72]

Apologies for the delay in putting up my fix, but I had to take some time to make a suitable wiring diagram to share with the masses. Don't wanna give you guys just any old crap you know.

Initial testing proves it works fine on short rides. I have a longer ride planned today which will give me a better chance to evaluate the setup.

Edit: If picture link doesn't work for some reason, it is available here.

 

[ionbeam]

Assist, did you perhaps mean this? In this setup the brake lights would now be power switched; in the factory setup the brake lights are grounded.

Do follow the link from the above post for the whole AVCC story.

 

[wfooshee]

Sorry, but even that is wrong. Ionbeam's version would have 12 volts on both sides of the coil with the brakes on, resulting in no brake lights. Maybe he hasn't had breakfast, yet.

Wild72, what he's pointing out is that you have the auxiliary lights in parallel with the coil, which is wrong. Those really ought to be switched by the relay, just like the wigwag unit. The coil should not carry the current load of any other circuit.

I think this is what he's after:

Produces the same result you had with yours, but the relay won't melt while you sit at a long light with the brakes on.

 

[ionbeam]

Sorry, that is wrong...Ionbeam'...

You are right, I'm wrong. I explained the error of my ways in the first line when I incorrectly stated '...in the factory setup the brake lights are grounded.'

I knowed gooder 'n that, but can't figger out why I waz misthinkin so wrong :blink:

After a lot of coffee things are a bit clearer now.

 

[bramfrank]

I'm about to embark on my install. I had active LED brake lights from Gary Murphy on the old Connie and what I did with that was to wire the relay coil so it was triggered along with the rest of the lighting and wired only the purple wire to the relay contact to provide the continuity . .

Worked fine for 30K or so miles until the bike got smooshed against the hood of an oncoming car.

My plan is to do the same on this bike - a relay across the brake bulb with the contact wired to the CCS-100.

 

[Wild72]

wfooshee, I agree that the load should not be flowing through the coil, however doing it the way you suggest did not allow the CCS to engage, even though I was getting 0V on the yellow wire.

In my diagram, when the brakes are applied, current flows from the yellow wire into both the auxiliary lamps, and the relay coil. Since they are connected in parallel, only the current for each device is actually flowing through that device.

Using Ohms Law, let's suggest that the lamps each have a resistance of 100 Ohms, and the relay coil is 200 Ohms. (Totally hypothetical values, I can't be bothered measuring the actual resistances). Total resistance for the circuit is 400 ohms. (100+100+200) giving a current draw of 0.3 Amps. Each 100 ohm lamp draws 0.12A (12V / 100 Ohms) and the coil draws 0.06A (12V / 200).

After about a 350 mile trip today, both CCS-100 and Wig-Wag function just fine. Many twisties, and even a bit of stop/go traffic didn't make the magic smoke want to escape from either the Wig-Wag or the relay coil.

 

[wfooshee]

Yeah, I'm not any brighter than Alan on a Sunday morning. Since they're in parallel the relay is not carrying the load, and my cereal-mushed brain was looking at them in series. But a properly placed diode takes care of what you describe, I think, and keeps the lights on the switched circuit off of the relay.

 

[Wild72]

Yeah, I'm not any brighter than Alan on a Sunday morning. Since they're in parallel the relay is not carrying the load, and my cereal-mushed brain was looking at them in series. But a properly placed diode takes care of what you describe, I think, and keeps the lights on the switched circuit off of the relay.

Hmmm, now you got me thinking, which is never a good thing!!!

I wonder if I were to to simply place a diode in series with the purple wire to the CCS-100, would this prevent the purple wire from seeing 8V when the brake lights are off, and allow the CC to engage without using either the relay or the auxiliary lamps??? Would certainly be a much easier solution than I came up with.

Now that I am a certified expert at removing the rear tupperware to gain access to all the brake light wiring, I might just give that a try sometime.