I read quite a few Concours14 and KIPASS comments in this thread. I can tell you that I now own my 2010 FJR after owning a C14. The main reason I don't own the C14 anymore is because of the KIPASS system. I owned the bike for 3 years and nothing but trouble with the KIPASS system. People at the beginning had different problems including electrical replacement's. But by far the most problems come from a stuck activation switch that renders the KIPASS useless. There are workarounds that work most of the time. They include splicing in a switch that can be used to disrupt the system upon failure. This allows you a couple of seconds to turn the key switch before it locks again. (of course it must have a recognized fob to allow the activation). This must be done every time it fails until the switch activation switch is addressed!
The second work around is the same as the first if you didn't splice in a interruption circuit. You must take apart the bike somewhat. On the 08-09 you must remove the glove box and left side filler panel. It also is pretty much nessasary to remove the windshield as well to get to the push rivet for the left filler panel. Then in the wiring harness, there is the only grey connector in the bunch. You must disconnect (interrupting the circuit) and then reconnect the connector. You then have a couple of seconds to turn the key switch on. It is very close on time, but do-able!
The third method is known affectionately as the K-Rock. That is when you find a rock or other hard, item to beat on the left side of the ignition housing, trying to jar the activation switch loose. I recommend using a rag to protect the housing when hitting it with the rock. Otherwise the housing will be damaged with marks from the rock!
The activation switch itself is outside the ignition switch itself, but under the switch housing in the 9 o'clock position. Using a lubricant like silicone spray often helps keep the activation switch working.
Another problem with the KIPASS system is that you have to troubleshoot the KIPASS system first when ever the switch doesn't work. So something as simple as a loose battery connection or a bad battery, cannot be found like on a normal keyed bike. You just can't turn on the key and find out the bike won't start because of a battery problem. With KIPASS you have to troubleshoot KIPASS first to find out if it's KIPASS or a power problem!
KIPASS requires to have the identifying fob to operate. If you loose both of the fobs, you must replace all of the KIPASS recognition parts. That could cost well over $1,000. If you only have one fob on you, and loose that, your all done. There is no hiding a spare key. You must have a second fob or fob card as your back up at all times. So basically you should always carry two fobs as a just in case situation. With a normal switch, a $5 spare key in your wallet would suffice.
So back to my C14 and KIPASS. My KIPASS failed within a couple of months of brand new (fall of 2007) it started acting up, but I managed to get it going. Then it failed and a trailer from about 50 miles from home was required. OF course the Kawasaki dealer could not verify the problem and wasn't allowed to do anything about it. The KIPASS hiccuped now and then over the next couple of years, but the K-rock and a liberal dousing of Silicone spray seemed to get it going again. That went on until June 2010. Then it starting giving me trouble, and the normal workarounds were not working as good. So I was going to take it back to the dealer again. So that day, on the way to work (I was going to drop it off later in the day) it failed again. I just fueled up and that was it. I had the bike torn apart trying everything to get the bike going, to no avail. I was late for work and the bike required a trailer again. But this time it failed for the dealer. So it was verified finally after almost three years.
Well wouldn't you know that Kawasaki refused to replace the switch, even though this had been a problem since brand new. Kawasaki instead instructed the dealer to clean and lube the parts that were failing when clean and lubed from the factory when brand new! Well that was the final nail in the C14's coffin.
The C14 has also been plagued by brake rotors warping over and over for some. The TPS (tire pressure sensors) system has been plagued by bad sensors that are just plain bad, or the batteries start to die very early and when ever it's cold out. Some have had drive shaft issues that required replacements. There have been various recalls for little things. One for the rear brake sticking on because of rocks getting stuck in the rear master cylinder. Unfortunately the plate they now put over it allows rocks to be trapped and holds them in place creating the same problem they tried to fix. Then the best one is that the panniers are known to just fly off the bike while riding, resulting in lost or damaged bags. Kawasaki dosen't seem cover this either. Guys are pinning their bags trying to keep them on the bike.
My bike never lost a pannier or had drive shaft problems. But it did have more KIPASS trouble than probably any other. It also had warped rotors, TPS problems and the recall items as well. I can say without a doubt that I had more trouble with my Concours14 than all other bikes I've owned over 30 years put together. I traded it in on my 2010 FJR and have no regret. And given the option of a 2011 FJR or 2011 C14, I would still take the FJR.
The C14 is a great bike to ride. But it is very similar to the FJR. I like some things better about both of them. But I also like things worse about each bike as well (obviously). But IMO the FJR is a better built bike. The build quality is IMO better than the C14. I have had mine for about 6 months and 6,000 miles. In that time the FJR has been flawless. Although most will say it should be (and I agree). But in the same time frame with my C14, I had already had numerous KIPASS strandings. And one resulted in needing a trailer to get it home.
So although the FJR has not been in updated recently. Was not included in the magazine comparisons. I find it still to be very good competition for the other bikes. It's a bike that doesn't rely on gimmicks to sell the bike. It's a well built, tried and true sport tour. One that does everything either almost as good or better than the competition. So I don't really care than the C14 is picked as a better bike by the magazines. I rode over 20,000 miles on one and 6,000 on my FJR. And I can tell you that the C14 is better at some things and worse at others. They are both great bikes. But I'll take the more nimble FJR over the C14. And that would probably be the same even if my C14 wasn't such a poor quality motorcycle! The FJR being more cost effective for maintenance also helps sway my vote.
Please take what I said with a grain of salt. For most of it is just my opinion, as others may be different.
