DIY 600 Mile Service?

[broodwich]

So I just got my FRJ used with about 900 miles. It needs the 600 mile service. The previous owner did not get the work done. Question is do I do it myself or take it to the dealer?

I have the service manual and I have looked over the schedule posted over at FJR1300.info. Warchild has easy to follow directions on FJRTech for the Engine Idle Synchronization, improved instructions on the oil and filter change and directions to lube the pivot points. The owners manual and the Service Manual have directions on the Final Drive Gear Oil Change. That leaves the electrical test for the sidestand switch, I know that's working.

Checking the Exhaust system components, I just need to make sure there are no leaks right? The exhaust manifold gasket should be fine right? Looks like the only other thing I need to do is check the torque on some bolts right?

Checking the brake system is just checking the wear bars on the pads, checking the fluid level and looking for leaks correct? Same for the clutch correct?

What I'm not sure about is on FRJ1300.info it lists to apply chain and cable lube. To what? I don't see that in the service manual for the 600 mile service. What is that referencing?

As far as tools do I need anything special beyond the Carb Sync Tool, a torque wrench and the oil filter wrench?

Does this list look complete or am I horribly misinformed?

Thanks

 

[JimLor]

For your cable lube question scroll down and open the "Cable Lube" thread. Good information.

 

[broodwich]

Thanks for that. I must have missed it.

 

[FJRocket]

Brood, sounds like you have it well in hand. Get the carb tuner and get to work! Document your service and GET RIDING!

Welcome to the brood, Brood!

 

[Ramblin Man]

Don't forget to change the oil and no synthetic untill 1400 miles.

Also check the screws that hold your saddlebag locks for tighness and check your fairing screws also. Don't forget the one underneath on the chin of the fairing.

 

[broodwich]

Thanks for that tip as well. There seems to be a lot of discussion about the TB sync. I have looked at the "Advanced" TB sync thread and I think I'm just going to follow the directions that are posted on FJRTech. I think that will be "good enough" for this 600 mile service. It seems like the Morgan Carbtune device is the choice unit over the Motion Pro. Would that be a fair assumption? I don't like the idea of having the mercury around the garage anyway.

I was going to wait until 5000 miles to switch to synthetic oil just be safe. As for the final drive gear oil, I need to get the Yamaha stuff right?

 

[Yambone]

Many here like the Mobil 1 product for the final drive and save just a ton of money over the high-priced spread! I live the high roller life and use the Yamaha juice p/n: 9079E-SH001-00 for the final drive.

Shameless plug for a dealer that truly supports the FJR community: Get it from FJR Goodies, and stock up with crush washers, oil and air filters and tires when needed, at a goody price.... Call Glen directly for quick turn around. :cownoy:

FJRgoodies

 

[Warpdrv]

Change the Gear lube in your rear end... When I do it... the first one I changed the oil and then ran the bike up through the rpm range for a little bit, then change it again right away.... you will notice that you get a little more metal doing a 2nd flush....

I have 3000 miles and I have changed my oil 4 times and flushed the Final Drive 3 times as well.... The Ring and Pinion take a bit to get meshed together...

JMO... Can't hurt and its cheap...

Warp

 

[TexasTigress]

I did a combination initial check-up.

I did the oil and filter change myself, as well as the final gear oil change, probably saving about $60 or more.

I did, however, succumb to the dealer for the synch and other vagarities, with the total tab of $136. Sigh. I don't have an instument for checking the synch (yet) and just surrendered (for now) to Those With More Knowledge.

At the dealer where I had the service done, they sold me Kow juice and said it was as good as the Yamaha elixir. Who knows, not me, but it was cheaper than the latter.

And the other day I spied a gallon of Rotella at Home Depot for about $7. I almost bought it but didn't have enough room to bring it home, and I hate having greasy stuff sitting between my legs on the bike....

I'm about ready to change the oils and filter again just for fun.

 

[broodwich]

I ordered the Morgan Carbtune today from England. I hope to have it in a week.

 

[Claymore]

You will love the Carbtune. Very easy to use. The unit cost less than what I was quoted for my first sync by the stealer. It got here from England in 5 days. I am doing my second sync this weekend - the first one took probably two hours - this one will be 30 mins tops. Re: the gas tank, some folks prop it, some tie it back to the rear rack, myself, I built the pipe stand so I just strap it up to that - also makes a handy place to hook the Carbtune. Also, this time I will safety wire the rubber plugs together - am a little paranoid of dropping one of those little suckers into the nether regions....

 

[radman]

and I hate having greasy stuff sitting between my legs on the bike....

I would assume then a date with TDub is out of the question......

Sorry, just couldn't help myself

 

[Geezer]

Don't wait for the carbtune to get there before you change the oil and filter. The oil change is the most important part of that first service.

 

[broodwich]

Geezer,

I'm not going to wait. I have been holding off putting any miles on the bike until I get the oil changed. I actually have not had time to ride anyway. I'll be changing the oil, filter and the final drive oil this weekend.

Anyone use an oil extractor on the FJR?

 

[broodwich]

I changed the oil and the filter today and the final drive oil. Everything went smooth. I could not get the oil pan under the drain plug for the final drive I just used a funel to drain the oil into the pan at an angle. That oil for the final drive was black and smelled nasty when it came out. In pulling the bolts for the final drive I found that they both had crush washers and I found that the raised part of the crush washers for both the final drive bolts had the raised part toward the shaft with the flat side toward the head of the bolt. This is opposite of the orientation of the crush washer on the engine oil drain plug. Does anyone know what the correct orientation is for the final drive crush washers? Warchild does not mention these on his site, just the oil drain plug bolt.

I'll do my throttle body sync next week when I get the Carbtune.

 

[Yambone]

Hmmm, I always orient my crush washers with the flat side toward the engine or drive casing, raised side toward the bolt head (on both the final drive and on the oil sump). I doubt it really makes a difference. If it ain't leakin, no big deal.

The initial break-in goo in the final drive looks bad and dark greenish, IIRC, and takes a couple of changes to fully flush.

 

[maddawg46]

Do the whole service yourself. You can buy one of those carb stix (mercury tubes) at any accesory shop. The tank swings back pretty easy. Also, by doing it yourself you get to know your bike. My TBs were not very far off at 600, so I left them. I checked them at 10K and they were a little off. The vaccum caps are real small, so take care not to loose them. I ordered 4 at Yamaha to keep in my tool box just in case i lost one. So far, I haven't dropped one. The firast time you pop that tank up is scary. Looks like a car under there.

 

[broodwich]

Do the whole service yourself. You can buy one of those carb stix (mercury tubes) at any accesory shop. The tank swings back pretty easy. Also, by doing it yourself you get to know your bike. My TBs were not very far off at 600, so I left them. I checked them at 10K and they were a little off. The vaccum caps are real small, so take care not to loose them. I ordered 4 at Yamaha to keep in my tool box just in case i lost one. So far, I haven't dropped one. The firast time you pop that tank up is scary. Looks like a car under there.

I'm not scared. I got over my fear of engine work when I replaced the head on my Honda Civic a few years back. I didn't lube the pivot points for the rear brake and the transmission shifter yet. I'll do that today. I didn't have a T-50 torx driver to remove that plate that covers the shifter.

 

[broodwich]

Sorry about all the questions, I'm new to this bike and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. Is this the right kind of grease for the pivot points.