Dremel virgin seeking assistance

[Brian Ewell]

As reported in a few other threads, some of us using the Yamaha Touring windshield along with the Skyway spacers are having clearance problems at the edges. I've been trying a combination of electrician's tape to protect the fairing and trying to remember to raise the shield slightly when I start off, but finally decided Something Must Be Done. So I went out and bought me a gen-U-ine Dremel tool, the 75th anniversary edition that comes with a bunch of tool bits.

So... now how do I figure out which bits to use to trim the windshield? I saw from another thread that the reinforced cutting bit could be used for the actual cutting, but then what to use to smooth things out? The cylindrical sanding bits? Or the flat sanding discs? Or one of the grinding bits? There were very brief instructions included, but it seems there must be a lot of trial and error with these things.

Thanks,

Brian

'06 FJR1300

'89 FJ1200

'90 K75S

'94 VFR750

'85 VF750C Magna

 

[odot]

aw hell, if they are spinning fast enough, it don't matter.

 

[Bustanut joker]

**** I've no wise assed reply for this.

Use the cylindrical sanding bits and dial down the speed if you have the variable speed unit. Otherwise use a light touch.

Oh and ya best not be drinkin like brother odot when ya do this, otherwise a new shield will be in order

:jester:

 

[evil_henchman]

The reinforced cutting bit can be used but it really just melts its way through acrylic and leaves a big burr and an ugly cut line that takes a lot of work to make look nice. The best tool for cutting acrylic is this. It leaves a nice clean line and no burr. BUT as with any of the rigid cutters it's easy to break the coupling on your tool. The coupling is soft plastic and made to shear anyway so order an extra one or two before you get started. They're only about $2. A light hand on a barrel sander is the best way I've found to finish things off.

 

[mike25]

Saber saw, for cutting. Dremel for, I don't know......

 

[Lake Powell]

The cylindrical sanding disk is my most popular followed closely tungsten carbide bit that will damn near go through anything. They kind of look like a rat tail file, you can get them at most hobby shops.

 

[C&C]

Saber saw, for cutting. Dremel for, I don't know......

Blasphemy, you definitely need to be enlightened; DREMEL GOOD, very GOOD.

 

[BobbyBlue]

Damn...I cant find Dremel on this friggin map anywhere! Is this outside the US ? S.America?

Bobby

 

[Zorlac]

If you use the thin cut off wheels, be aware that although they cut steel pretty good, the SLIGHTEST sideways pressure will snap them, either during use or in mounting or storage.

I break more of them than I wear out. :angry:

 

[Checkswrecks]

Umm, in response to your original question, dremels are great, but for this - none of the above.

I take the windshield off the bike, tape the heck out of both sides, draw on where the cut will be (adding about an eighth for sanding), use a jig saw with a fine blade, once halfway through add more tape behind the cutting blade for support, and finish with a belt sander running at least 220 grit paper. Run the belt along the length of the cut and the finish looks like the original. The hard part is figuring out exactly where I want the cut before I begin and after that, it may take all of 15 minutes to do the cut and clean-up.

Bob

 

[HaulinAshe]

I've been using Dremel tools for many years. I used one to cut the holes in my 05 CeeBailey shield. My best advice is whatever you use, tape the shield up WELL and on both sides.

The abrasive discs will cut straight lines okay, you just have to take it slow. The spiral tungsten-steel cutters work well, same thing, take it slow. The drum sander works best at higher RPM with a very light touch and multiple passes.

Most hardware stores/Lowes sell 1 to 2 inch drum sanders that can be used with a standard drill. They work very well on straight lines and convex curves. Relatively cheap to purchase too.

 

[Brian Ewell]

Umm, in response to your original question, dremels are great, but for this - none of the above.I take the windshield off the bike, tape the heck out of both sides, draw on where the cut will be (adding about an eighth for sanding), use a jig saw with a fine blade, once halfway through add more tape behind the cutting blade for support, and finish with a belt sander running at least 220 grit paper. Run the belt along the length of the cut and the finish looks like the original. The hard part is figuring out exactly where I want the cut before I begin and after that, it may take all of 15 minutes to do the cut and clean-up.

Bob

Ya mean to tell me I convinced my wife that I *had* to buy a Dremel when I really didn't? Well, that's okay. I still think it raises my manliness quotient, even if I have to take a deduction for posting questions about it.

Brian

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

The best tool for cutting acrylic is this. It leaves a nice clean line and no burr.

That one is by far my most often used accessory in my Dremel arsenal.

Good recommendation even if no one listens.